I've done the job both with engine in the car and out of the car. Second time was because I rushed the cylinder head rebuild.
Access is horrible. If doing anything more than the timing chain it's worth removing the engine. Oh I must be barking? Having done it both ways, I would do cam chain with engine in the car. I would do cylinder head (which also demands a cam chain job) with engine out of the car.
Sump AND cam chain side engine mount have to come off. I made a plywood support bracket that sat on the engine block but cleared the windage plate and oil pick up pipe. This allowed a jack to support the engine. I looked at using the lifting lugs from above but I could not get a safe support.
Exhaust pipe has to come off the catalyst outlet.
Crank bolt is LEFT HAND thread and EXTREMELY tight. You will need a breaker bar.
You will also need a cam locking kit on the exhaust cam and a pin in the flywheel at front of the engine. You need the correct pin as it takes the tightening torque of the crank end bolt. A drill would be too weak and a standard HT bolt feels loose.
Accessory belt tensioner spring needs a long handle ring spanner (there is no space for a socket). I used an ordinary combination with another looped into the open end to increase leverage. It's an extremely strong spring. Photograph the belt before removal - its quite a tangle.
Bolts (M8) holding the gearbox reinforcing bracket are probably rusted. I bought a new set.
Bolts holding the sump are pretty nasty. I replaced with large flat head bolts of suitable length.
Breather pipe will be split and making a mess. Finding a new one is a headache I got a close match but it's not a perfect fit.
Ordinary Silicone RTV skins over too fast. I used Loctite 5922. It's like a hybrid RTV-Hylomar but its worked well on sump, water pump and elsewhere. The cam cover is gasket supposed to be fitted dry, However when I had to redo mine, there were signs of poor sealing. I refitted with 5922 on both joint faces. It's stayed clean.
Your parts kit MUST include new crank bolt (LH thread), new pulley drive hub and new oil seal. If necessary, you can get these separately on eBay. Parts numbers are on
EPER. You will also need a Torx socket for that bolt.
You will NOT get new banjo bolts for the oil spray pipe. I could not find a torque setting so was very careful. Go too hard and the bolt heads will tear off.
The cam chain tensioner is a pig to fit. You will need to juggle the sequence of chain guides chain and tensioner until it fits. Don't forget to pull the tensioner retaining pin.
Remove the cam locking pin and use a tool to hold the cam sprocket while torquing the bolt to 120Nm. If you rely on the cam timing lock, you will damage the cam. I made a tool with two M8 bolts and long nuts into a 5mm x 50mm steel bar. The long nuts locate into the sprocket lightening holes.
Now replace the camchain cover/oil pump (complete with new oil seal) and you'll be glad to have your engine support which clears the windage tray and oil pickup pipe. I used Loctite 5922 on both joint faces. Fit the stud nuts loose but don't fit the cover bolts.
LH thread crank bolt has two torque options. Fiat say tighten to 230Nm. GM say 50Nm plus 90 degrees. I don't have a huge torque wrench so tightened it using the GM spec. You'll need the correct diameter locking pin in the crank flywheel and the cam has to be locked. Remove both locks and CAREFULLY turn the engine two full turns.
Now fit the full set of M6 cover bolts and tighten the M6 nuts. The slow-setting Loctite is handy stuff.
