Technical MK2 Knocking Nghtmare PLS Help!! :(

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Technical MK2 Knocking Nghtmare PLS Help!! :(

Joined
Jan 17, 2013
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Location
West Midlands
Hi there guys,

Im quite new on the forum and to owning my W reg mk2 punto is my first car.

Ive recently replaced the N/s or passenger side suspension arm/wishbone including ball joint and new anti roll bar bushes and also a c.v boot gaiter i believe as these were mot advisorys and it is due new month.

The problem I'm having now is everytime i brake harshly, pull away or simply change gear there is a horrible banging and creaking sound coming from the N/S wheel and the middle of the vechile.

I took thia back to the garage and i have replace all engine and gearbox mounts but problem is still there.

Stumped to whats wrong and how to fix any ideas?

All help will be appreciated

Thanks
 
Everything was installed by local garage rubbers on anti roll bar have been checked and were okay took garage about an 1 hour just to fit the bush on the bar so it's defitnotly tight on the bar :/, I only replaced the bush on both side closer to the wheel I understand that there is another anti roll bar bush towards the centre could that be the problem ?

Thanks :)

Thank you
 
Everything was installed by local garage rubbers on anti roll bar have been checked and were okay took garage about an 1 hour just to fit the bush on the bar so it's defitnotly tight on the bar :/, I only replaced the bush on both side closer to the wheel I understand that there is another anti roll bar bush towards the centre could that be the problem ?

Thanks :)

Thank you

What made you think the outer ARB needed replacing?
There are lots of things that need to be checked here

Torqued up doesn't always mean its tight
A rusty rusty dry nut and bolt will torque up to the selected figure quicker then a cleaned up old nut with a little bit of copper slip or wd40 on it

torquing up really is a hit and miss thing it certainly applies to cylinder head bolts, wheel bolts and new bolts and nuts fitted
Any bolts you remove should be cleaned up to help with refitting and something to help tighten them up

I'd be under with a pry bar - a long one at that, and be giving everything a good shove and pull to see what can move

by the fact it only happens when power is dipped and reapplied it makes me wonder if there is a dying CV joint thats been missed?

Ziggy
 
Thanks for the reply ziggy, the at is booked in for its mot on Friday am slightly worried about it failing due to this. I would have thought the garage would of said that c.v joint is faulty when they replaced the boot ?

The previous boot was split and really leaking greasy gunge, could this mean that the cv joint behind the boot faulty ? Hence why the boot split ?

Thanks for your patience

Steve
 
Outer ARB was replaced due to there was little rubber left in the bush itself and thought while doing the arm might as well get that done at the same time sorry misses this question in previous reply

Steve
 
Thanks for the reply ziggy, the at is booked in for its mot on Friday am slightly worried about it failing due to this. I would have thought the garage would of said that c.v joint is faulty when they replaced the boot ?

The previous boot was split and really leaking greasy gunge, could this mean that the cv joint behind the boot faulty ? Hence why the boot split ?

Thanks for your patience

Steve

Take the car into the MOT
you have 14days normally to fix it and return unless you go to a crappy one

I've got through several Mots with bottom ball joints been sloppy then a babies first poo, but because it was supported it didnt fail
Make a hella racket tho when pulling off

The CV joint splitting = Grease out + Water + Dirt in

Dirt and water in a Ball driven joint = wear

like hand sand in your eyes - it rubs them raw

CV gaitors fail because they rub and age. A stone gets lodged and a rip forms and so on and so on

On full lock does it make a racket too?

Ziggy
 
Wouldn't say a racket on full lock a single knock and steering wheel does jolt abit, I thought this was wear on my steering rack :/ could this be linked to my banging and knock too ?

Thank you !!

Could forwell be a likely suspect there
Normally tho CV joints click heavily and the power feels notchey as you turn as the power is been wasted a little and then hits back in, constantly to a rythem, ie Click silence, click, silence
or
click click - silence - click click silence, and the faster you spin around the faster it gets

it could be worthwhile having it checked out
But bung it into the MOT, they do checks on joints and gaitors as well - you never know what they might find for you

Ziggy
 
The garage where the mot is being done are the garage that are also stumped and have to look into it further when it goes back in free of charge of course.

I've just been out for a ride no clicking just knocking it gets worse when heavy braking , turning sharply and when I have a passenger in the vechile

Thanks
 
The more weight you have in the vehicle = More force required to drag the backside of the car
if a CV joint is dying, that extra force means it more likely to jump / skip

Accelerating hard = lots of force

braking = The cars going forward, the discs want to stop and the engine is still spinning too!, CV's can slip again there

its hard to explain clicking and knocking, as it can sound the same, so mention CV's as you drop it off

Ziggy
 
Thank you for all your help !!!

The car attempts to steer left too when passenger is in car ? Had my tracking done is that due to c.v again ?

After mot will be sure to post it's findings and if it solved :)
 
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