Styling Mk2 grille

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Styling Mk2 grille

GeorgePayne

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IS it possible to just take out the fiat badge from the grille. .. as i think it looks *** without the middle bar

i was thinking you you cut a the fiat badge
cut up the badge to fill in the gap and use filler to make it look the same hieght as the orignal middle bar

please tell me if anyone has done this before as i think it will lmake it look so much better :D
 
If it was done in paint, its not a Photoshop... thats what Photshop does;)

I think some of the tipo lot do something similar... search their forum.

i dont really care mate why you gotta say summink like that its totaly of topic and its got nothing to do with what i asked
you dont have to point out every mistake evryone else makes
******* **** ****
 
i dont really care mate why you gotta say summink like that its totaly of topic and its got nothing to do with what i asked
you dont have to point out every mistake evryone else makes
******* **** ****

It wasn't meant to be a dig at you.

There was a reply to your question too. So not off topic... Like this is now going due to yourself.
 
IS it possible to just take out the fiat badge from the grille. .. as i think it looks *** without the middle bar

i was thinking you you cut a the fiat badge
cut up the badge to fill in the gap and use filler to make it look the same hieght as the orignal middle bar

please tell me if anyone has done this before as i think it will lmake it look so much better :D

Good idea - without the middle bar, it looks like a Nova. :)
I've found that fibreglass-reinforced filler is best - it's stronger and less likely to crack. Use the stuff that's sold as 'metal fix' - grey colour, fibre-reinforced. You'll be able to fill the back of the grille bar/base and it will be really strong.

Sanding it is probably best done dry and definitely with a block, with sandpaper starting at 80 grit, then (roughly) doubling in grit each time - that way, you don't end up with scratches that show up later. So, 80 grit, then 180 (say), then 280 grit, and 400 grit. Or whatever sandpaper you have that's close to these!

To sort out any pinholes or blemishes, you'll want to give it several coats of primer/filler (thick primer). The primer/filler from an aerosol can should be given at least 24 hours to dry between two thick-ish coats. So it's going to take a couple of days, but then you'll be able to block-sand with wet 600 grit sandpaper and get a really even base for your colour coats. Which, again, have to be put on fairly thinly with plenty of time for each coat to dry.

The reason for the extra drying time is to avoid shrinkage problems. If the paint underneath isn't properly dry, the top surface will shrink as solvents evaporate over the longer term.

All this is assuming you don't have 2K primer and a compressor/spraygun handy ;) 2K paint has the advantage of being thicker and harder (oo-err) than aerosol paint.

Also, though I haven't seen your FIAT badge (the one on the right), you might like to know that they can be bought new through a FIAT dealer and it's well worth it for the crisp new look (the blue plastic ages badly and the chrome comes off!)

-Alex
 
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Good idea - without the middle bar, it looks like a Nova. :)
I've found that fibreglass-reinforced filler is best - it's stronger and less likely to crack. Use the stuff that's sold as 'metal fix' - grey colour, fibre-reinforced. You'll be able to fill the back of the grille bar/base and it will be really strong.

Sanding it is probably best done dry and definitely with a block, with sandpaper starting at 80 grit, then (roughly) doubling in grit each time - that way, you don't end up with scratches that show up later. So, 80 grit, then 180 (say), then 280 grit, and 400 grit. Or whatever sandpaper you have that's close to these!

To sort out any pinholes or blemishes, you'll want to give it several coats of primer/filler (thick primer). The primer/filler from an aerosol can should be given at least 24 hours to dry between two thick-ish coats. So it's going to take a couple of days, but then you'll be able to block-sand with wet 600 grit sandpaper and get a really even base for your colour coats. Which, again, have to be put on fairly thinly with plenty of time for each coat to dry.

The reason for the extra drying time is to avoid shrinkage problems. If the paint underneath isn't properly dry, the top surface will shrink as solvents evaporate over the longer term.

All this is assuming you don't have 2K primer and a compressor/spraygun handy ;) 2K paint has the advantage of being thicker and harder (oo-err) than aerosol paint.

Also, though I haven't seen your FIAT badge (the one on the right), you might like to know that they can be bought new through a FIAT dealer and it's well worth it for the crisp new look (the blue plastic ages badly and the chrome comes off!)

-Alex

thanks mate lol . . . but im not looking for taking out the middle bar just the fiat badge and then use that to fill in the gap and fill over to make it even :)

i hope this work

thanks for the info anyway
 
But would the filler crack ?

If it's fibre-reinforced, it should be fine. I'm not familiar with the exact brands available to you (in NZ, the one to go for is "Newtech") but you basically want one of the grey 'metal fix' types sold for, umm, bridging rust holes - not that you'd ever want to do that, of course ;)

-Alex
 
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