Technical 🆘Manual transmission problems (LOUD NOISE)

[DragonHeart6]

Fiat Bravo T-Jet six-speed manual transmission:
The other day, while driving slowly, I started hearing a slight noise coming from the gear shift area.
I thought it was insufficient lubrication, since I had previously repaired a leak, which I eventually fixed. (I was away from home for work.)
To get home, I tried adding a liter of oil. The noise seemed to have gone away, so I drove home(60 kilometers)
I parked near a store to get a cardboard box to put under the car to check for leaks overnight.
I drove back home (near the store).
I parked the car in neutral to place the cardboard box under it, and that loud noise began(video attached)
In the morning, there wasn't a drop of oil on the ground, and the loud noise was still there.
I drove to the mechanic (3 minutes away), and the loud noise was goneHowever, there is indeed a slight noise, probably coming from the primary driveshaft "also according to the mechanic".
I wanted to have the oil level checked, but the mechanic refused, saying he didn't have time. So I took the car to work, waiting to find another manual transmission to replace. The mechanics will be closed for two days now, but I need the car for work.
My fear now is that the oil level is too high or too low. What do you think could have happened? What can I do?
The clutch and flywheel are new, replaced a few months ago

Please help

 

[bugsymike]

Fiat Bravo T-Jet six-speed manual transmission:
The other day, while driving slowly, I started hearing a slight noise coming from the gear shift area.
I thought it was insufficient lubrication, since I had previously repaired a leak, which I eventually fixed. (I was away from home for work.)
To get home, I tried adding a liter of oil. The noise seemed to have gone away, so I drove home(60 kilometers)
I parked near a store to get a cardboard box to put under the car to check for leaks overnight.
I drove back home (near the store).
I parked the car in neutral to place the cardboard box under it, and that loud noise began(video attached)
In the morning, there wasn't a drop of oil on the ground, and the loud noise was still there.
I drove to the mechanic (3 minutes away), and the loud noise was goneHowever, there is indeed a slight noise, probably coming from the primary driveshaft "also according to the mechanic".
I wanted to have the oil level checked, but the mechanic refused, saying he didn't have time. So I took the car to work, waiting to find another manual transmission to replace. The mechanics will be closed for two days now, but I need the car for work.
My fear now is that the oil level is too high or too low. What do you think could have happened? What can I do?
The clutch and flywheel are new, replaced a few months ago

Please help

I would check oil level to start with.
Too high will just cause oil leaks, but too low is bad for bearings etc.
First video sounds like an exhaust manifold gasket blowing to me.

 

[xarenwo]

That sounds like a flywheel noise, it's a very sharp knock. It's like a big mass is hitting something and resonates. Did you ever touch the flywheel guards ? The 2 black metal guards between engine block and gearbox ? If those are bent, the flywheel can touch them. It's weird it makes noise only when you release the clutch though, sounds like there is something metallic that is loose, the insides of a gearbox would make a whining noise, if there would be such a problem to make such a big knock, the whole gearbox would disintegrate, there are only the gears , synchros and the differential that are moving, but they have small teeth and they would grind, not knock. Also the sound sounds the same frequency as the engine is turning, the shafts and gears inside the gearbox have different speeds based on their ratio.
The thing is that there is also a delay from when you press the pedal to when the noise stops, which indicates it's a bearing or something that stops spinning when you press the clutch, and that does lead to the gearbox, but it also might be something on the clutch disc rattling around the pressure plate. It can be that the part with the splines of the disc is damaged and the disc does not rotate normally. Does the car drive ok, does the clutch slip ?

Too much oil would just be thrown out from the breather on top, and it would make engaging gears harder because the synchronizers wouldn't work properly, but it should not cause any noise or permanent damage.
You can't really check the oil level on an m32 gearbox. Gen1 had a plug but it's kind of useless and Gen2 does not have it. Only way is to take the oil out and measure how much you got out, keeping in mind around 200gr are always left in the gearbox while it's on the car.

If your gearbox bearing would be bad, you would have whining while in gear, gear level would move and wanting to get out of gear, and if it's so bad that the shafts are leaning onto each other and grinding the gears, then you would have known in advance and wouldn't just start randomly.

Anyways those are just my opinions, there are many things that can cause that noise, but I'm pretty sure that if it would be some piece of metal inside the gearbox rattling around and making such noises, the gears would already disintegrate because it sounds like a big piece of metal that would not get picked up by the magnets in the differential housing.

If you can safely lift the car and support it with jackstands (always), it's not that hard to remove the gearbox oil and check how much you have. You can recycle it if clutch was changed recently and put it back without changing it. You just need to remove that metal bar with 4 m16 head bolts so it doesn't splash around everywhere, and undo the plug. When you put the plug back you should use some sealant. Given you are in Italy , you can use Sigill Block, red container, you can find it in ferramenta, just go around the bolt on the thread with 1 line, no need to put too much. This seals the bolt but does not block it unlike thread locker.
Then filling it back up, from the top is not that hard. Torques for bottom bolt near the differential are 15-17nm and top filling plug 25nm.

 

[xarenwo]

I would check oil level to start with.
Too high will just cause oil leaks, but too low is bad for bearings etc.
First video sounds like an exhaust manifold gasket blowing to me.

Hi again Mike, it does also sound like an exhaust manifold gasket, but If I understood right, the noise comes only when he releases the clutch and it's engaging, thus turning the gearbox primary shaft and clutch disk. Besides other things I listed (in my opinion as always), it could also be that the pressure plate's teeth became bent and when the pedal is pressed the CSC presses them evenly but when releasing the CSC, it still touches those teeth/wings but 1 or 2 stay more outwards and they are hitting the bearing. Just a theory. But this would cause jerking while driving because the clutch would have gripped randomly and not evenly.
On second thought, if the bearing behind the CSC is bad, that would cause a lot of play on the primary shaft of the gearbox when engaged and vibration, so the disc would just rattle and hit around. Wasn't the play of primary shaft checked when the clutch was changed ? That should always be done when the gearbox is off.

 

[DragonHeart6]

That sounds like a flywheel noise, it's a very sharp knock. It's like a big mass is hitting something and resonates. Did you ever touch the flywheel guards ? The 2 black metal guards between engine block and gearbox ? If those are bent, the flywheel can touch them. It's weird it makes noise only when you release the clutch though, sounds like there is something metallic that is loose, the insides of a gearbox would make a whining noise, if there would be such a problem to make such a big knock, the whole gearbox would disintegrate, there are only the gears , synchros and the differential that are moving, but they have small teeth and they would grind, not knock. Also the sound sounds the same frequency as the engine is turning, the shafts and gears inside the gearbox have different speeds based on their ratio.
The thing is that there is also a delay from when you press the pedal to when the noise stops, which indicates it's a bearing or something that stops spinning when you press the clutch, and that does lead to the gearbox, but it also might be something on the clutch disc rattling around the pressure plate. It can be that the part with the splines of the disc is damaged and the disc does not rotate normally. Does the car drive ok, does the clutch slip ?

Too much oil would just be thrown out from the breather on top, and it would make engaging gears harder because the synchronizers wouldn't work properly, but it should not cause any noise or permanent damage.
You can't really check the oil level on an m32 gearbox. Gen1 had a plug but it's kind of useless and Gen2 does not have it. Only way is to take the oil out and measure how much you got out, keeping in mind around 200gr are always left in the gearbox while it's on the car.

If your gearbox bearing would be bad, you would have whining while in gear, gear level would move and wanting to get out of gear, and if it's so bad that the shafts are leaning onto each other and grinding the gears, then you would have known in advance and wouldn't just start randomly.

Anyways those are just my opinions, there are many things that can cause that noise, but I'm pretty sure that if it would be some piece of metal inside the gearbox rattling around and making such noises, the gears would already disintegrate because it sounds like a big piece of metal that would not get picked up by the magnets in the differential housing.

If you can safely lift the car and support it with jackstands (always), it's not that hard to remove the gearbox oil and check how much you have. You can recycle it if clutch was changed recently and put it back without changing it. You just need to remove that metal bar with 4 m16 head bolts so it doesn't splash around everywhere, and undo the plug. When you put the plug back you should use some sealant. Given you are in Italy , you can use Sigill Block, red container, you can find it in ferramenta, just go around the bolt on the thread with 1 line, no need to put too much. This seals the bolt but does not block it unlike thread locker.
Then filling it back up, from the top is not that hard. Torques for bottom bolt near the differential are 15-17nm and top filling plug 25nm.

Thanks, you've been very precise and detailed.
However, I already knew I had a worn gearbox: the gears were having a bit of trouble shifting. Furthermore, a couple of times recently, fifth gear seemed to get stuck inside (always during a downshift).
The strange thing about all this is that the loud noise in the video has disappeared

 

[bugsymike]

Interesting to hear what you find.

 

[DragonHeart6]

Interesting to hear what you find.

I'm already looking for a new transmission. The problem is that there are several versions for sale, similar ones I believe, with different part numbers. All produced by Fiat: Bravo, Delta, Giuletta, Mito.
But the codes on eper are different. Do you know if they are all interchangeable (plug and play) or if something changes in the gears?
I'm looking for manuals but I can't find these details

 

[bugsymike]

I'm already looking for a new transmission. The problem is that there are several versions for sale, similar ones I believe, with different part numbers. All produced by Fiat: Bravo, Delta, Giuletta, Mito.
But the codes on eper are different. Do you know if they are all interchangeable (plug and play) or if something changes in the gears?
I'm looking for manuals but I can't find these details

Sorry I don't have any details on model specifics.

 

[Sylvester22]

How many miles/km does your car have?
Perhaps they fix wasn't done properly either.

 

[DragonHeart6]

How many miles/km does your car have?
Perhaps they fix wasn't done properly either.

Leak fix was good
The next day I discovered that there was an extra 1 liter of oil in the gearbox (Could it have been the liter I had accidentally added that created that noise?)

 

[xarenwo]

Leak fix was good
The next day I discovered that there was an extra 1 liter of oil in the gearbox (Could it have been the liter I had accidentally added that created that noise?)

1 Liter extra compared to what ? To the 2 liters required by the manual ? Many people put 3L of oil in the m32 gearbox to help with bearing overheating near the 6th gear and nothing happens. If there would be too much oil in the gearbox the oil would get out from the breather valve on top (black plastic cap) or from the oil seals in the differential where the driveshafts go in my opinion.

 

[DragonHeart6]

1 Liter extra compared to what ? To the 2 liters required by the manual ? Many people put 3L of oil in the m32 gearbox to help with bearing overheating near the 6th gear and nothing happens. If there would be too much oil in the gearbox the oil would get out from the breather valve on top (black plastic cap) or from the oil seals in the differential where the driveshafts go in my opinion.

exactly. 2 liters plus 1. But the strange thing is that the car no longer made that noise and went back to exactly how it was before
I thought overfilling these gears was harmful

 

[DragonHeart6]

1 Liter extra compared to what ? To the 2 liters required by the manual ? Many people put 3L of oil in the m32 gearbox to help with bearing overheating near the 6th gear and nothing happens. If there would be too much oil in the gearbox the oil would get out from the breather valve on top (black plastic cap) or from the oil seals in the differential where the driveshafts go in my opinion.

1 Liter extra compared to what ? To the 2 liters required by the manual ? Many people put 3L of oil in the m32 gearbox to help with bearing overheating near the 6th gear and nothing happens. If there would be too much oil in the gearbox the oil would get out from the breather valve on top (black plastic cap) or from the oil seals in the differential where the driveshafts go in my opinion.

Pictures of my transmission + code
(I'm searching compatible code or better "longer" gears)

 

[xarenwo]

Pictures of my transmission + code
(I'm searching compatible code or better "longer" gears)

My gearbox code is the same, you can fit any gearbox from 1.4 T-Jet mostly, the only thing is that there is an updated version of driveshafts from 2007 or 2008, so the differential might be different, the teeth I mean. In ePer you can read "13470 - ADOZIONE NUOVI SEMIALBERI TAGLIA 2900 (VET 4269790)" for code OEN 55209140 which is for our driveshafts. If you put an older one you might need to change the driveshaft part that goes in the gearbox. I don't see any other change between those gearboxes, at least not external. Any gearbox up to 2009 fiat bravo should fit in my opinion.
Previous gearboxes had right driveshaft code as OEN 55229021 which looks like it's 925mm long instead of the 930-931 on my fiat bravo (and your possibly). On the engine itself, the holes for the bolts are the same as long as it's C544 gearbox for Fiat 1.4 TJet, for the rest, m32 gearboxes are pretty similar in general, but the bolt holes are different.

You did not have to put all that "glue" or whatever it is, you could have fixed the leak by removing the differential cover and resealing it, you don't even have to take the gearbox off for that since it comes off separately, you just need anaerobic sealant and 2 new driveshaft oil seals (they are the same left right, code corteco 01033292B)
Another thing, your driveshaft boot looks in pretty bad shape, if dirt gets in, you will need to replace it, so fix the boots and change the grease if they don't make noise, otherwise change the bearing and check the external part that goes on the gearbox if it's scratched inside. It usually comes in a kit and costs around 50 euros. It'll never be as good as original one, but it's not that hard to fix.

Is your gearbox making other noises ? Like bearing noises ? or the problem was just the oil leak ? If so, why do you want to change the gearbox ? Just repair yours. Are you sure the 5th gear problem is from the synchronizer and not from the selector mechanism ? Mine gets kind of stuck when leaving it to sit over night and its cold and moving the shifter left right is hard, I put some grease on it but it's hard to grease it properly, it feels better though, as soon as you move the gear lever a bit, it recovers, so clearly shifter mechanism needs some grease. Its weird it gets stuck in gear, usually it's hard to insert the gear, which means the teeth on the 5th gear pinion is damaged together with the synchronizer for 5th and 6th gear.

How many km does your car have now ?

 

[DragonHeart6]

My gearbox code is the same, you can fit any gearbox from 1.4 T-Jet mostly, the only thing is that there is an updated version of driveshafts from 2007 or 2008, so the differential might be different, the teeth I mean. In ePer you can read "13470 - ADOZIONE NUOVI SEMIALBERI TAGLIA 2900 (VET 4269790)" for code OEN 55209140 which is for our driveshafts. If you put an older one you might need to change the driveshaft part that goes in the gearbox. I don't see any other change between those gearboxes, at least not external. Any gearbox up to 2009 fiat bravo should fit in my opinion.
Previous gearboxes had right driveshaft code as OEN 55229021 which looks like it's 925mm long instead of the 930-931 on my fiat bravo (and your possibly). On the engine itself, the holes for the bolts are the same as long as it's C544 gearbox for Fiat 1.4 TJet, for the rest, m32 gearboxes are pretty similar in general, but the bolt holes are different.

You did not have to put all that "glue" or whatever it is, you could have fixed the leak by removing the differential cover and resealing it, you don't even have to take the gearbox off for that since it comes off separately, you just need anaerobic sealant and 2 new driveshaft oil seals (they are the same left right, code corteco 01033292B)
Another thing, your driveshaft boot looks in pretty bad shape, if dirt gets in, you will need to replace it, so fix the boots and change the grease if they don't make noise, otherwise change the bearing and check the external part that goes on the gearbox if it's scratched inside. It usually comes in a kit and costs around 50 euros. It'll never be as good as original one, but it's not that hard to fix.

Is your gearbox making other noises ? Like bearing noises ? or the problem was just the oil leak ? If so, why do you want to change the gearbox ? Just repair yours. Are you sure the 5th gear problem is from the synchronizer and not from the selector mechanism ? Mine gets kind of stuck when leaving it to sit over night and its cold and moving the shifter left right is hard, I put some grease on it but it's hard to grease it properly, it feels better though, as soon as you move the gear lever a bit, it recovers, so clearly shifter mechanism needs some grease. Its weird it gets stuck in gear, usually it's hard to insert the gear, which means the teeth on the 5th gear pinion is damaged together with the synchronizer for 5th and 6th gear.

How many km does your car have now ?

My mechanic used two-component Poxipol glue. He did it twice to be sure. To do the welding, he told me that everything had to be disassembled. Unfortunately, you have to keep an eye on him because he's an old-school mechanic (no manuals etc) .
My car has about 280,000 km, but I've kept it like a jewel. For about 10,000 km, it's had a Mito engine with 40,000 km. Now I don't hear any noises anymore, but in general, the gears have become hard to shift. They often have difficulty shifting. (I try to synchronize by ear to help.) With the right timing, they shift well. Otherwise, they enter with difficulty, like in two-step, "cluck-cluck". So I think synchronizers gone. (Sporty/happily driving it's now impossible)

 

[DragonHeart6]

My gearbox code is the same, you can fit any gearbox from 1.4 T-Jet mostly, the only thing is that there is an updated version of driveshafts from 2007 or 2008, so the differential might be different, the teeth I mean. In ePer you can read "13470 - ADOZIONE NUOVI SEMIALBERI TAGLIA 2900 (VET 4269790)" for code OEN 55209140 which is for our driveshafts. If you put an older one you might need to change the driveshaft part that goes in the gearbox. I don't see any other change between those gearboxes, at least not external. Any gearbox up to 2009 fiat bravo should fit in my opinion.
Previous gearboxes had right driveshaft code as OEN 55229021 which looks like it's 925mm long instead of the 930-931 on my fiat bravo (and your possibly). On the engine itself, the holes for the bolts are the same as long as it's C544 gearbox for Fiat 1.4 TJet, for the rest, m32 gearboxes are pretty similar in general, but the bolt holes are different.

You did not have to put all that "glue" or whatever it is, you could have fixed the leak by removing the differential cover and resealing it, you don't even have to take the gearbox off for that since it comes off separately, you just need anaerobic sealant and 2 new driveshaft oil seals (they are the same left right, code corteco 01033292B)
Another thing, your driveshaft boot looks in pretty bad shape, if dirt gets in, you will need to replace it, so fix the boots and change the grease if they don't make noise, otherwise change the bearing and check the external part that goes on the gearbox if it's scratched inside. It usually comes in a kit and costs around 50 euros. It'll never be as good as original one, but it's not that hard to fix.

Is your gearbox making other noises ? Like bearing noises ? or the problem was just the oil leak ? If so, why do you want to change the gearbox ? Just repair yours. Are you sure the 5th gear problem is from the synchronizer and not from the selector mechanism ? Mine gets kind of stuck when leaving it to sit over night and its cold and moving the shifter left right is hard, I put some grease on it but it's hard to grease it properly, it feels better though, as soon as you move the gear lever a bit, it recovers, so clearly shifter mechanism needs some grease. Its weird it gets stuck in gear, usually it's hard to insert the gear, which means the teeth on the 5th gear pinion is damaged together with the synchronizer for 5th and 6th gear.

How many km does your car have now ?

What's the bearing noise? I've been walking around for a while without a drop of oil in the past. So I think I did some damage. (The mechanic hadn't noticed the leak.)
What's bearing noise?
Are these the parts you think I should replace? (Only a week ago my mechanic changed silent block and "braccetti scatola sterzo" but he didn't tell me anything about the driveshaft boots
You have the code of the kit? Sorry if I don't understand right away, but I'm Italian.

 

[xarenwo]

I'm in Italy too but I'm writing in English so other people can understand in the future if they need help. Anyways boot is cuffia semiasse and there are different models depending on year. I need a better picture cause like this looks like the boot is not cracked but just the clamp is not sitting properly. (La fascetta piccola del semiasse non è stretta bene, è storta e sembra che acqua e sporco possa entrare).
My car has "only" 162000km now but I just got it in may and changed almost everything on it to make it last 2-3 years or more because of the euro5 diesel blocks on my other car in winter days in cities. The only thing that's left on it is engine and gearbox and electrical cables lol. But I did the work myself otherwise it would have not been worth it and the car itself has nice paint on chassis, no rust and it's emotion full optional version so for the price given the current used market today for cars due to the start of diesel ban in recent years it's a great car and it's also comfortable and safe in case of an accident.

If you ran without gearbox oil then your gears and and synchronizers definitely had some damage and it's impressive that you have so many km. Did your other engine consume oil or what was the reason for changing it ? Did you have the car since new and know the full history ?
Anyways my boots (cuffia semiasse) was cracked at 158000km and was leaking the grease out, car is from 2009, I don't know the criteria on which those break, the one near the gearbox was broken and the one on the wheel side looked like new but I changed it anyways because it was easier from gearbox side. Now I'm having a clunking noise if you look at my other thread on the forum and I suspect the driveshaft tripod bearings but I don't have much free time left so I just ordered new GSP aftermarket axles to see if the problem is changing with new bearings, otherwise I'm afraid my gearbox differential will also need some repair, but by hand I dan feel play in my driveshaft bearings, it's pretty big compared to my other car which has 0 play and has 260.000km (Renault Scenic 3 diesel). Anyways my next car will probably be another bravo but euro 5 or fiat tipo with the 1.4 tjet engine. With the current hate towards the diesel community this remains one of the last reliable and repairable gasoline engines today that can be used normally for everything, can have up to 150hp without many modifications and can also run GPL (I do 40000km a year). For now I'm not installing GPL because I want to monitor the health of the engine and see if it's worth it with this car or have to do any major repairs on the engine, unfortunately with used cars in Italy it's like this because oil changes are often neglected with most cars. There are other good engines but for small city cars with under 80 horsepower and not good for me. I really love this engine and it's a great compromise for family car, travelling, city and everything else. The boot kit for gearbox side Is only like 15 euros but you should change the one near the wheel too if you take it off since you also should change the m24 (36socket) nut that keeps the wheel on the driveshaft and the kit for the wheel has the nut included, otherwise just the nut costs 10 euros, not only this but it's easy to change both from gearbox side, otherwise the one near the wheel too requires to take it off and there is a snap ring which can get stuck and you have to cut the whole cv axle or hammer it out. You should buy at least SKF brand but original one is spidan/lobro/gkn and you can actually find them available today aftermarket. As you can see in the picture at some point I had more spare parts in the house than a parts shop for this car

 

[DragonHeart6]

I'm in Italy too but I'm writing in English so other people can understand in the future if they need help. Anyways boot is cuffia semiasse and there are different models depending on year. I need a better picture cause like this looks like the boot is not cracked but just the clamp is not sitting properly. (La fascetta piccola del semiasse non è stretta bene, è storta e sembra che acqua e sporco possa entrare).
My car has "only" 162000km now but I just got it in may and changed almost everything on it to make it last 2-3 years or more because of the euro5 diesel blocks on my other car in winter days in cities. The only thing that's left on it is engine and gearbox and electrical cables lol. But I did the work myself otherwise it would have not been worth it and the car itself has nice paint on chassis, no rust and it's emotion full optional version so for the price given the current used market today for cars due to the start of diesel ban in recent years it's a great car and it's also comfortable and safe in case of an accident.

If you ran without gearbox oil then your gears and and synchronizers definitely had some damage and it's impressive that you have so many km. Did your other engine consume oil or what was the reason for changing it ? Did you have the car since new and know the full history ?
Anyways my boots (cuffia semiasse) was cracked at 158000km and was leaking the grease out, car is from 2009, I don't know the criteria on which those break, the one near the gearbox was broken and the one on the wheel side looked like new but I changed it anyways because it was easier from gearbox side. Now I'm having a clunking noise if you look at my other thread on the forum and I suspect the driveshaft tripod bearings but I don't have much free time left so I just ordered new GSP aftermarket axles to see if the problem is changing with new bearings, otherwise I'm afraid my gearbox differential will also need some repair, but by hand I dan feel play in my driveshaft bearings, it's pretty big compared to my other car which has 0 play and has 260.000km (Renault Scenic 3 diesel). Anyways my next car will probably be another bravo but euro 5 or fiat tipo with the 1.4 tjet engine. With the current hate towards the diesel community this remains one of the last reliable and repairable gasoline engines today that can be used normally for everything, can have up to 150hp without many modifications and can also run GPL (I do 40000km a year). For now I'm not installing GPL because I want to monitor the health of the engine and see if it's worth it with this car or have to do any major repairs on the engine, unfortunately with used cars in Italy it's like this because oil changes are often neglected with most cars. There are other good engines but for small city cars with under 80 horsepower and not good for me. I really love this engine and it's a great compromise for family car, travelling, city and everything else. The boot kit for gearbox side Is only like 15 euros but you should change the one near the wheel too if you take it off since you also should change the m24 (36socket) nut that keeps the wheel on the driveshaft and the kit for the wheel has the nut included, otherwise just the nut costs 10 euros, not only this but it's easy to change both from gearbox side, otherwise the one near the wheel too requires to take it off and there is a snap ring which can get stuck and you have to cut the whole cv axle or hammer it out. You should buy at least SKF brand but original one is spidan/lobro/gkn and you can actually find them available today aftermarket. As you can see in the picture at some point I had more spare parts in the house than a parts shop for this carView attachment 475244View attachment 475245

Yes, I've changed boots several times too. I think it's the stress or the aging of the plastic. I think it's a common problem.
I noticed the crooked clamp too. I get a fever every time I have to go to the mechanic: he fixes one thing and breaks two..
I'm interested in this kit, because I don't like the procedure they use here, and I think it damages other things: with heavy hammer blows

 

[DragonHeart6]

I'm in Italy too but I'm writing in English so other people can understand in the future if they need help. Anyways boot is cuffia semiasse and there are different models depending on year. I need a better picture cause like this looks like the boot is not cracked but just the clamp is not sitting properly. (La fascetta piccola del semiasse non è stretta bene, è storta e sembra che acqua e sporco possa entrare).
My car has "only" 162000km now but I just got it in may and changed almost everything on it to make it last 2-3 years or more because of the euro5 diesel blocks on my other car in winter days in cities. The only thing that's left on it is engine and gearbox and electrical cables lol. But I did the work myself otherwise it would have not been worth it and the car itself has nice paint on chassis, no rust and it's emotion full optional version so for the price given the current used market today for cars due to the start of diesel ban in recent years it's a great car and it's also comfortable and safe in case of an accident.

If you ran without gearbox oil then your gears and and synchronizers definitely had some damage and it's impressive that you have so many km. Did your other engine consume oil or what was the reason for changing it ? Did you have the car since new and know the full history ?
Anyways my boots (cuffia semiasse) was cracked at 158000km and was leaking the grease out, car is from 2009, I don't know the criteria on which those break, the one near the gearbox was broken and the one on the wheel side looked like new but I changed it anyways because it was easier from gearbox side. Now I'm having a clunking noise if you look at my other thread on the forum and I suspect the driveshaft tripod bearings but I don't have much free time left so I just ordered new GSP aftermarket axles to see if the problem is changing with new bearings, otherwise I'm afraid my gearbox differential will also need some repair, but by hand I dan feel play in my driveshaft bearings, it's pretty big compared to my other car which has 0 play and has 260.000km (Renault Scenic 3 diesel). Anyways my next car will probably be another bravo but euro 5 or fiat tipo with the 1.4 tjet engine. With the current hate towards the diesel community this remains one of the last reliable and repairable gasoline engines today that can be used normally for everything, can have up to 150hp without many modifications and can also run GPL (I do 40000km a year). For now I'm not installing GPL because I want to monitor the health of the engine and see if it's worth it with this car or have to do any major repairs on the engine, unfortunately with used cars in Italy it's like this because oil changes are often neglected with most cars. There are other good engines but for small city cars with under 80 horsepower and not good for me. I really love this engine and it's a great compromise for family car, travelling, city and everything else. The boot kit for gearbox side Is only like 15 euros but you should change the one near the wheel too if you take it off since you also should change the m24 (36socket) nut that keeps the wheel on the driveshaft and the kit for the wheel has the nut included, otherwise just the nut costs 10 euros, not only this but it's easy to change both from gearbox side, otherwise the one near the wheel too requires to take it off and there is a snap ring which can get stuck and you have to cut the whole cv axle or hammer it out. You should buy at least SKF brand but original one is spidan/lobro/gkn and you can actually find them available today aftermarket. As you can see in the picture at some point I had more spare parts in the house than a parts shop for this carView attachment 475244View attachment 475245

Are you sure your car has those mileages? Try checking the real mileage with OBD diagnostics.
I have aftermarket BRC GPL system on car.
The old engine had low compression and was bubbling. I never found out what the real problem was because opening the engine was too expensive. However, I'm sure the problem was caused by the valves (I later realized that the LPG injectors were leaking, so I was running on a lean mixture). However, I still have the old engine.
I think T-Jet it's a sturdy engine, because it never let me down.
for this reason it is the most suitable to be enhanced.

 

[xarenwo]

Are you sure your car has those mileages? Try checking the real mileage with OBD diagnostics.
I have aftermarket BRC GPL system on car.
The old engine had low compression and was bubbling. I never found out what the real problem was because opening the engine was too expensive. However, I'm sure the problem was caused by the valves (I later realized that the LPG injectors were leaking, so I was running on a lean mixture). However, I still have the old engine.
I think T-Jet it's a sturdy engine, because it never let me down.
for this reason it is the most suitable to be enhanced.

Yes I'm sure the mileage is correct. The obd mileage can be faked but I opened this car completely and the state of the various parts corresponds with this mileage. Also governmental revisione since 2018 corresponds and before 2017 it was 1 owner and he was 78 years old. Car was kept in garage and looks good outside besides some scratches. Mileage can always be faked but the car had factory timing belt, thermostat, suspension and the car had never been open before me , it was in roughly bad state but it can't have more than those km. The interior looks new and there are no wear indicators anywhere. (Yes I also checked obd). When I bought the car the seller was so patient with me that he let me check the car completely. I brought my diagnostic tool and a borroscope camera and checked everything around the engine , I even removed the timing belt cover and looked at everything. Looked inside the engine with the camera and so on. It wasn't in best shape but for the price I paid and with the repairs I did (around 2500) just in parts, I'm still under the value of this car on the market in Italy and those cars are in the same bad shape because nobody will fix their cars like I do unless they are doing it themselves otherwise it's impossible and economically not worth it.