Technical JTD105 - Power stutter > Injector light

[Snoo]

Hi folks. Had a weird problem on my W reg JTD recently. A couple of times over the past month The car has very briefly lost power (Like I've cut the engine) and the injector light comes on. It only happens for a sec then the light goes out again. Car running lovely apart from this. Going to try some injector cleaner but wonder if anyone had experienced this before and solved it.

Thanks.

 

[momoe]

Could be the crank sensor, the engine just stops and won't start again, minute or two at first and then progressively worse.
Diagnostic read might help.

 

[Snoo]

Not had a problem starting. It's always when driving. Was on the motorway today when it had the 'hiccup'! Would crank sensor give and injector light fault??

 

[momoe]

If there isn't a problem restarting then it's probably not the crank sensor. ]
If the injector light comes on there should be a fault recorded - code readers are about £25 which is cheaper than going to a garage and getting it done, not a common fault so reading the code(s) would help enormously.
Best sorted soonest before you try a smart pull-out at a junction and the engine decides to hiccup at the wrong time.

 

[Snoo]

If there isn't a problem restarting then it's probably not the crank sensor. ]

It's not a problem restarting as it doesn't cut out completely. It just kind of misses a beat as it were whilst I'm driving.

 

[miszczu77]

It looks like a problem with a socket on a cable that comes from a gas pedal. The socket is white and is near fan blower under dashboard.

 

[Snoo]

It looks like a problem with a socket on a cable that comes from a gas pedal. The socket is white and is near fan blower under dashboard.

Passenger footwell? I think I've located it. What's the general fault? Just a bit of contact cleaner in there and replug?

 

[miszczu77]

Passenger footwell? I think I've located it. What's the general fault? Just a bit of contact cleaner in there and replug?

Yes, that's right. You can also cut off that socket and solder the cables.

Check fault codes on the computer but most likely it will be "Gas pedal potentiometer fault" or something like that.

 

[Snoo]

Yes, that's right. You can also cut off that socket and solder the cables.

Check fault codes on the computer but most likely it will be "Gas pedal potentiometer fault" or something like that.

Strange. I can disconect the connector and the engine starts and revs happily. Can't be the correct one surely? Does anyone have any photos of it on a 105JTD?

I've got an ODB2 cable and laptop so will look for some code reading software.

 

[miszczu77]

I can place some photos here after weekend.

Download FiatECUScan. It's very good and it's for free.

 

[Snoo]

Nice one. I'll check out the FiatScan this weekend.

 

[Snoo]

She broke down properly today. AA man had no luck reading any fault codes. But he agreed that it had all the halmarks of the cranksensor. So just ordered one. Fingers crossed.

 

[Snoo]

Turns out it was the crank sensor. A bit awkward to fix, but running fine now. Thanks to all who chipped in with advice.

 

[kangocartman]

Just wanted to chip in with my experience,
I had the same issue and I replaced the crank sensor with one from GSF (German Swedish French) still had the problem though so I thought it might be a fuel issue and had the fuel pump tested, but it was ok, now I'm thinking this is going to get expensive.
To cut a long story short it turns out the replacement sensor was faulty also, going to order another one.
So the moral of this story is don't discount the thought that maybe the new part may be faulty
Kc

 

[QinteQ]

- has a hiccup, but does not cut out
- has no problems restarting

You should eliminate [ #6 / 8/ 9 / ] the white connector, its cost free and takes all of 60 seconds, do it before spending and even .. .. .. before asking for advice.

The black cable from the potentiometer bottle above the throttle pedal traverses left behind the stereo to the passenger side, it carries a varying ohms resistance message [ depending on the throttle position ] to the ECU via the white connector You will get the injector light and at least 3 unrelated code errors from this dirty connection. Garages charge £150 at least for a potentiometer replacement when in truth they just clean or make good the white connector.

If you are foːɐ̯ʃpʁʊŋ dʊɐ̯ç ˈtɛçnɪk, then go the whole hog and solder & sleeve it, but most times just pulling it apart 5 or 6 times is enough to make a good electrical contact.