Technical JTD sudden loss of power at low revs

[ScouserInExile]

I have an 03 Stilo JTD (the 115bhp one, I think) that has suddenly started having a loss of power at low-ish revs. If I'm just cruising at arouind 1800-2000 rpm or thereabouts, it'll suddenly lose power - I can floor the accelerator and it won't do anything. It's not like lag, it doesn't slowly accelerate. It's not like it's trying to stall, there's no knocking or juddering. It actually feels like I've just touched the brake. If I drop it a gear and give it some revs, it recovers.

Any ideas what this might be?

 

[philipb82]

Hello

I had this exact problem with my JTD. I had a new MAF fitted, EGR and throttle body cleaned and new air filter. However at the time my brake lights were flickering and staying on so i had a new brake light switch fitted. After all that work the problem went, so i don't know what part fixed it. However i suspect it was the brake light switch that was causing it. I read somewhere on this forum that a faulty brake light switch can trick the ECU into thinking the car is braking. So to start with simplest option first, brake light switch. When was your air filter last changed?

Phil

 

[Daveystrings]

My multiwagon is doin sumthin similar, ive just bought it tho so im just getting used to it, but i thought it strange sometimes rolling up to junctions or slow down a bit for the corner and the power seems to disappear, drop a gear (or 2) to build the revs and away she goes again no probs.

No faults logged other than low aircon pressure. So must check out that brake light switch.... Maybe disconnect it and take it for a rip... Use the rear fogs as brake lights... Good tell tale i suppose

 

[bri1232]

I have an 03 Stilo JTD (the 115bhp one, I think) that has suddenly started having a loss of power at low-ish revs. If I'm just cruising at arouind 1800-2000 rpm or thereabouts, it'll suddenly lose power - I can floor the accelerator and it won't do anything. It's not like lag, it doesn't slowly accelerate. It's not like it's trying to stall, there's no knocking or juddering. It actually feels like I've just touched the brake. If I drop it a gear and give it some revs, it recovers.

Any ideas what this might be?

Try resetting brake switch it s worth a try it cost nothing.

 

[ScouserInExile]

Try resetting brake switch it s worth a try it cost nothing.

How would I go about doing that? (taking into account that, when it comes to all things mechanical, I'm a complete no-thumbed gibbon)

 

[bri1232]

Check Guides. https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/100058-brake-light-problems-changing-switch.html

 

[Daveystrings]

I solved my issue.... Changed brake light switch and made no difference.... Turns out it was egr valve stuck open coz it was caked with so much carbon... Theres plenty on this, search the forum... I unbolted the 2 bolts where it connects to manifold, cut a bit of baby milk tin roughly (all i had handy) and slid it inbetween to stop exhaust gas goin into manifold and bolted back up, pulls like a train now through the entire rev range... Gonna follow the guide tho and totally remove the valve, clean it up then block the gas goin into the valve to keep it clean. Fyi it passed mot no probs last week with the valve blocked, no emissions test, coz its derv, shes a 2004 model

 

[Xavstack]

Hi all, I think I've the same issue. Looking at several tests but first my symptoms :

- Sudden loss of power - you can pump away but get nothing beyond idle revs.
- It did cut out on a hill and didn't want to start up again for at least 30 mins. It would start then stall right away.

Here are my current tests to do gathered on this site :

1a Try I/C hoses as if they crack, lack of vacuum prevent turbo spin up.
1b check inter cooler hoses also
2. Air Filter date change ?
3. Faulty brake light switch causes ECU to think you're braking...? (Lights stuck on?)
4. Change / clean MAF
4b. Volt test on MAF sensor.
5. Clean EGR - throttle body
6. EGR valve stuck open - try blanking EGR as test. :

Any other pointers lads ?

Cheers

 

[cris1117]

Hi. The EGR is always my bet with power loss, blank it and forget it, costs nothing but 30 minutes of time.

 

[Xavstack]

Thanks Chris ill try that this wkend, i can see several posts with more or less elaborate blanking techniques, just working out the most suited.

 

[philipb82]

Does it feel like the car is braking? My money is on the brake light switch!

Phil

 

[cris1117]

Hi . You only need one blank, it’s the silver coloured corrugated pipe fixed with two Allen bolts front left of the engine.

If you remove the top bolt and loosen the bottom bolt (very tight), pull the pipe back a little you can flick the gasket to one side using a small screwdriver so it is pivoting on the bottom bolt.

You can then get hold of it and remove the bottom bolt and slide it out, use the gasket as a template to make a blank I used 1mm steel plate, the side of an old computer case actually.

Drilling the bolt holes a little bigger will help don’t forget to remove the burs, slide the bottom part of the blank in and get the bottom bolt in a couple of turns then as before pivot on the bottom bolt and get the top bolt in, tighten up and your done.

You can use a baked bean tin to make a blank but it will only last about 4000 miles.

My car covered 220,000 hard driving miles with a blank and suffered no problems

 

[Xavstack]

Hi Phil, I don't think it's the brake light switch but admit its my wife's car so I'm going her accounts..... : I

I reckon it's not the brake light switch though because I've not had any lights sticking on. Though I do have a bulb failure message since ages, but I think it's actually a bad bulb. I recently had to reinforce the earthing in the the rear lights as the connectors had burnt the earth connection, probably from bad contact over the years.

Still doesn't hurt to see, I guess if I disconnect the brake light switch altogether that might help test ? Or just pull the fuse?

Chris thanks for the details ! Saved me some doubt, I hadn't yet found someone explicitly say they encountered no issues over 100k. What about MOT tests ?

Cheers lads

 

[cris1117]

MOT no problem been through 3 whilst blanked.

 

[sharkytaylor]

Or you could buy one cheapley enough on Ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VD-EGR-blanking-plate-FIAT-MULTIJET-STILO-MAREA-BRAVA-182-JTD-DOBLO-MULTIPLA-/221330570788?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3388547e24#ht_582wt_958

 

[Grandad1974]

I had this problem for several weeks. After some searching through various forums, the most common answer was blanking the egr valve. Give it a good clean first though. Mine pulls like a train now and the mpg has increased!! The blanking plates cost me £3 on ebay.

 

[Xavstack]

Hi all. Just an update on this in bullet points for the next guys:

- dismantled EGR, but of a pain with two bolts facing downwards, but there's just enough space for a standard Allen key. Removed tubing either side also. It helps to loosen the bottom tube a pivot EGR to the right in order to get better access to those bottom bolts.

- once off I didn't find it had masses of carbon deposit, which got me worrying. But still there was a fair amount and I cleaned it out with an EGR cleaner, probably paid over the odds but it comes with a fuel additive for the job. Horrible job cleaning but use washing powder to clean your hands, works a treat.

- concerned that the solenoid is not springing out very well, movement stunted, probably by carbon gunk. I've seen a decent instruction on this site for dismantling, cleaning and rebuilding but mine was not so accessible and didn't want to risk breaking it. I gave it a good few knocks on wood to loosen any gunk, plus WD40 sprayed inside. This worked to loosen its movement. I hoe it holds cause I don't think I can buy those separately.

- remounted the lot, having also found and cleaned the turbo sensor on the side of the engine block, it was very blocked.

- before startup I should have put a box or bag under the exhaust because any loose carbon not yet out came whooshing onto my drive in a dark spray. Nice. Gave it a good high revs spin around the block.

Done over 80 miles since and no worries. I think blanking is still an option for me but that solenoid may go soonish either way....

Cheers for all the help ..

 

[cab]

Hi all, I am having the same problem, I have tried to remove the EGR valve but I am struggling with the downward facing bolt nearest the engine, any advice?


I have thought about blanking it off, not being able to get those bolts out is it sufficient to block off the corrugated pipe to the engine?


thanks in advance


Cliff

 

[Peat]

Yes. That will work.

 

[cris1117]

Hi. The corrugated pipe is the only one that needs blanking, no need to clean the EGR or anything else, once blanked the EGR is redundant.
As a bonus you will get less smoke on hard acceleration.