Technical Jesus, would someone help?
- Thread starter Grubeguy
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Technical Jesus, would someone help?
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Hi Grubeguy
thought you and your mate had cracked it.
just a thought, are you sure the rev counter is reading right, if its over reading by 500 revs then it would all make sense.
do you have a way of checking it with another one
Tim
thought you and your mate had cracked it.
just a thought, are you sure the rev counter is reading right, if its over reading by 500 revs then it would all make sense.
do you have a way of checking it with another one
Tim
With another tachometer? I don't have another one, no. Is this a common issue?
I'm told that with the cam I have, an idle at 1500 is common, and about the best I can get. I'm about to replace the turn signal switch assembly, clean up some bad grounds and see about putting the car on the road. If I can drive it around the neighborhood without the car exploding or dieing, I'll be happy. Maybe I can actually drive the thing on a regular basis
)
I'm told that with the cam I have, an idle at 1500 is common, and about the best I can get. I'm about to replace the turn signal switch assembly, clean up some bad grounds and see about putting the car on the road. If I can drive it around the neighborhood without the car exploding or dieing, I'll be happy. Maybe I can actually drive the thing on a regular basis
)And a quick update- I bought another used carb off Ebay and spent a few hours cleaning and rebuilding the thing. The little beggar idles, starts and revs like it should. Even the choke mechanism works smoothly )
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Hi Grubeguy
So the long and short of it, unless you have rebuilt it yourself you cannot be sure its been rebuilt.
really glad you have progress and an increasing chance of enjoying the car.
Tim
So the long and short of it, unless you have rebuilt it yourself you cannot be sure its been rebuilt.
really glad you have progress and an increasing chance of enjoying the car.
Tim
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Hi Grubeguy.
finally got on the road, 52hp never will create massive tyre smoke. I find after being off the road for a while the idle jets will need cleaning out a few times and this will cause it to stall at junctions.
What sort of rev range are you using and what fuel.
Tim
finally got on the road, 52hp never will create massive tyre smoke. I find after being off the road for a while the idle jets will need cleaning out a few times and this will cause it to stall at junctions.
What sort of rev range are you using and what fuel.
Tim
I've cleaned out that carb a couple times, chasing a number of issues. The gas is weeks old (91 octane). I'm idling between 1500 and 2000 rpm, most usually 2000. I can't get below that without the engine stalling.
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Hi Grubeguy.
I'm guessing with a newly rebuilt engine(tight) friction will be high for a little while until at least 500 miles, you have a hot cam that will work best over 4000 revs but you wont want to be using it much up there until the engine is run in and 91 octane fuel is really low. I would be running on 99 octane and with lead replacement additive ( might not need this with a 1973 car).
So yes stick some higher octane in it and put some 500 miles on it, then retourque the head bolts and reset the valve gaps, then you will probably need a rolling road visit as your camshaft will need different fueling compared to regular standard cam.
If the engine is tight this will stop the chance of getting a lower idle for a while due to power sapping friction.
Tim
I'm guessing with a newly rebuilt engine(tight) friction will be high for a little while until at least 500 miles, you have a hot cam that will work best over 4000 revs but you wont want to be using it much up there until the engine is run in and 91 octane fuel is really low. I would be running on 99 octane and with lead replacement additive ( might not need this with a 1973 car).
So yes stick some higher octane in it and put some 500 miles on it, then retourque the head bolts and reset the valve gaps, then you will probably need a rolling road visit as your camshaft will need different fueling compared to regular standard cam.
If the engine is tight this will stop the chance of getting a lower idle for a while due to power sapping friction.
Tim
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Hi Grubeguy.
Just checking you've cleaned out those pesky little idle jets from both sides of the carb body, the little 0.5mm ones. if they have become blocked again then even a standard 903cc engine on 95 ron fuel will fall over on idle at 1300 revs anyway.
Tim.
Just checking you've cleaned out those pesky little idle jets from both sides of the carb body, the little 0.5mm ones. if they have become blocked again then even a standard 903cc engine on 95 ron fuel will fall over on idle at 1300 revs anyway.
Tim.
I'm in the process of cleaning literally every part of a DICA-1 carb I have. Except for a couple unobtanium diaphragms (I found a source for them, yay me), I have parts for everything within it.
As for higher octane gas, I'm not sure I see much gas past 95 around here. My daily driver gets gassed up once a month (one of the benefits of the covid issue I guess), so me not seeing something doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
While the other carb is being rebuilt, I'm able to use the one on the car right now, and with temps just above freezing here, it does NOT want to start easily, even with full choke. I was hoping to use the Fiat as the runaround car, but not if the thing will possibly strand me at the grocery store.
Help me out - when the engine is warm and I'm checking timing, it doesn't like to run if I go about 10 degrees. It does nicely at 30-ish though. I'm clipping to number 4 wire during the check. Does this sound reasonable?
As for higher octane gas, I'm not sure I see much gas past 95 around here. My daily driver gets gassed up once a month (one of the benefits of the covid issue I guess), so me not seeing something doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
While the other carb is being rebuilt, I'm able to use the one on the car right now, and with temps just above freezing here, it does NOT want to start easily, even with full choke. I was hoping to use the Fiat as the runaround car, but not if the thing will possibly strand me at the grocery store.
Help me out - when the engine is warm and I'm checking timing, it doesn't like to run if I go about 10 degrees. It does nicely at 30-ish though. I'm clipping to number 4 wire during the check. Does this sound reasonable?
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Hi Grueguy.
yes cyl 1 and 4 are in sync so either end plug 1 or 4 will give the same result, just wondering if your end pulley has gone out of position(the woodruff key can cut into the soft cast iron and allow it to rotate), take a spark plug out and check the piston is at the top when the timing mark is at tdc. if the idle isnt going below 2000 revs then 30 degrees is probably part of your advance curve anyway.
i can guess if 95 ron is all you can get then its what you have to work with.
In the UK we can get octane boost of 2 to 4 points by adding about 250ml of the octane boost to a 50lt tank of fuel.
Tim
yes cyl 1 and 4 are in sync so either end plug 1 or 4 will give the same result, just wondering if your end pulley has gone out of position(the woodruff key can cut into the soft cast iron and allow it to rotate), take a spark plug out and check the piston is at the top when the timing mark is at tdc. if the idle isnt going below 2000 revs then 30 degrees is probably part of your advance curve anyway.
i can guess if 95 ron is all you can get then its what you have to work with.
In the UK we can get octane boost of 2 to 4 points by adding about 250ml of the octane boost to a 50lt tank of fuel.
Tim
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