Technical Immobiliser Bypass Help

[Jmj89]

I believe that their are similarities between key code system on the 2.8idTD, and that on the 2.8jtd. The code receiver has a permanent 12V supply, while that to the pump pcb is ignition switched. Unless the code receiver scans for a key 24/7 it has to be started by the ignition supply being received at the pump unit. This unit sends a special code to the code receiver which causes it to interrogate the key. The key responds with its own code, and if it matches one stored in the code receiver, the special code is returned to the pump pcb. The correct code being returned to the pump pcb allows injection by energising the stop solenoid.
If the pump pcb is removed then nothing to start the process? I could have it all wrong, but it makes sense with known facts.

From my understanding which is fairly limited, I agree with all of that. But isn't the point of bypassing the immobiliser to skip all of those steps? I could be wrong but with it bypassed I wouldn't have thought any of those processes need to take place as long as the solenoid has a 12v feed from the ignition switch. Then the solenoid is energised when the ignition is turned on, I can hear it click with the ignition, whether it's actually opening or not I don't know.

@jackwhoo unfortunately I dont have an amp meter to measure the amps at solenoid, I thought my friend had one but he doesn't.

I have recharged the starter battery overnight and checked all fuses in the glove box and all appear ok.

 

[Jmj89]

I believe that their are similarities between key code system on the 2.8idTD, and that on the 2.8jtd. The code receiver has a permanent 12V supply, while that to the pump pcb is ignition switched. Unless the code receiver scans for a key 24/7 it has to be started by the ignition supply being received at the pump unit. This unit sends a special code to the code receiver which causes it to interrogate the key. The key responds with its own code, and if it matches one stored in the code receiver, the special code is returned to the pump pcb. The correct code being returned to the pump pcb allows injection by energising the stop solenoid.
If the pump pcb is removed then nothing to start the process? I could have it all wrong, but it makes sense with known facts.

Sorry I didn't realise you were responding specifically about the key light.

From what I've read from others doing it, while the van should start after bypass, the CODE light should still be illuminated until the yellow box is unplugged. Again I may be wrong there.

 

[Communicator]

From my understanding which is fairly limited, I agree with all of that. But isn't the point of bypassing the immobiliser to skip all of those steps? I could be wrong but with it bypassed I wouldn't have thought any of those processes need to take place as long as the solenoid has a 12v feed from the ignition switch. Then the solenoid is energised when the ignition is turned on, I can hear it click with the ignition, whether it's actually opening or not I don't know.

@jackwhoo unfortunately I dont have an amp meter to measure the amps at solenoid, I thought my friend had one but he doesn't.

I have recharged the starter battery overnight and checked all fuses in the glove box and all appear ok.

1. Yes. I was trying to make the point that if the process doesn't start, then perhaps the LED will not illuminate. That theory only relates to engines with mechanical injection control.
2. Again yes. All that you need is a 12V feed to the solenoid.
3. I was wondering wheter the solenoid had been sticking in the past, and partly responsible for your problems?
4. Most electronic multimeters have a current range, but you have to put positive lead into a different socket. Leaving the lead in that socket is not recommended.

 

[jackwhoo]

If listening for a click from stop solenoid from cab ......it would be a very quiet click.
Perhaps there are other clicks being mistaken for the stop solenoid.
Disconnect stop solenoid from rest of van and supply positive just to stop solenoid to identify the sound it makes when working.
Disconnect from rest of van important so as not to back feed another click

 

[Jmj89]

If listening for a click from stop solenoid from cab ......it would be a very quiet click.
Perhaps there are other clicks being mistaken for the stop solenoid.
Disconnect stop solenoid from rest of van and supply positive just to stop solenoid to identify the sound it makes when working.
Disconnect from rest of van important so as not to back feed another click

Thanks for the suggestions, I have a friend helping (it's stuck on his drive so doesn't have a choice) and we've both taken turns to listen. We have also disconnected the solenoid and connected direct to battery positive and get the same click.

 

[Jmj89]

1. Yes. I was trying to make the point that if the process doesn't start, then perhaps the LED will not illuminate. That theory only relates to engines with mechanical injection control.
2. Again yes. All that you need is a 12V feed to the solenoid.
3. I was wondering wheter the solenoid had been sticking in the past, and partly responsible for your problems?
4. Most electronic multimeters have a current range, but you have to put positive lead into a different socket. Leaving the lead in that socket is not recommended.

Thanks. As for the solenoid sticking, its possible but can't confirm. There had been times before the bypass where after failing to start many times it would suddenly start even though the CODE light was on but startes to run lumpy after a few minutes. So perhaps the solenoid was sticking then.

Thats interesting about the multimeter thanks

 

[jackwhoo]

Check strainer on fuel pipe in fuel tank not blocked.

 

[Jmj89]

Check strainer on fuel pipe in fuel tank not blocked.

Thank you I will check that out tomorrow.

 

[jackwhoo]

If pump can't draw fuel from tank you would get symptoms described

 

[Jmj89]

If pump can't draw fuel from tank you would get symptoms described

That makes sense. It did start once or twice before we did the bypass though so ai think it's probably unlikely to have blocked up since, but will definitely check.

 

[bugsymike]

At the end of the day if you are sure the solenoid is activating and opening to let diesel into the injector pump and fuel is getting there from the fuel filter, unless cam belt has broken or you have no compression then the engine should start once air is bled from the injectors.
So are you getting a good supply of genuine diesel (not water or some other contaminant) through the fuel filter if you are then engine should run.

 

[Greasytrucker]

That makes sense. It did start once or twice before we did the bypass though so ai think it's probably unlikely to have blocked up since, but will definitely check.

Doesn’t explain why it now won’t fire with easystart though. How many times did you start it using easystart as if too much is used you can hydrolock the engine and potentially start damaging stuff. Just a thought

 

[Jmj89]

At the end of the day if you are sure the solenoid is activating and opening to let diesel into the injector pump and fuel is getting there from the fuel filter, unless cam belt has broken or you have no compression then the engine should start once air is bled from the injectors.
So are you getting a good supply of genuine diesel (not water or some other contaminant) through the fuel filter if you are then engine should run.

I understand. I'm certain it's activating but not certain it's opening, the injectors receiving fuel would make me think it is. I haven't actually checked the fuel filter yet so will do this too.

@Greasytrucker I'm aware it's not great to use too much but didn't realise it could do that kind of damage. We started it 4 maybe 5 times with easy start. Then 2 more about an hour later which failed to start it.

 

[Jmj89]

Can I ask what the yellow circled part is? Its next to the fuel pump and solenoid.

 

[Communicator]

View attachment 468892
Can I ask what the yellow circled part is? Its next to the fuel pump and solenoid.

Wax capsule for cancelling cold start injection advance.

For more info follow this link to Motor Roam website.

 

[Jmj89]

Wax capsule for cancelling cold start injection advance.

For more info follow this link to Motor Roam website.

Thank you

 

[Automods]

Where are you located?

 

[bugsymike]

View attachment 468892
Can I ask what the yellow circled part is? Its next to the fuel pump and solenoid.

In my opinion if Wax stat is faulty, although it will not help smooth running , it will not stop the engine from starting.
I had the same engine in a boat and never connected that wire to Wax stat , Summer and Winter that engine always started easily, even with ice on gunnels of boat.

 

[Jmj89]

Where are you located?

I am in Kent.

 

[Jmj89]

In my opinion if Wax stat is faulty, although it will not help smooth running , it will not stop the engine from starting.
I had the same engine in a boat and never connected that wire to Wax stat , Summer and Winter that engine always started easily, even with ice on gunnels of boat.

I didn't know what a wax stat was but having read up on it I wouldn't have thought so either.

I had a thought lastnight though and hope this will be the problem. Directly above the solenoid box is a bleed nipple on the fuel pump. This was in the way of the multi tool so we temporarily swapped it for a short bolt to give us more room and I reckon it's drawn in some air. This seems to be the only thing we did that no one else has mentioned doing and they've had successful bypasses.

@bugsymike I appreciate your explanation on how to bleed the injectors but I'm not confident I've done it 100% correctly and wonder whether it also needs bleeding from the filter and the nipple we removed. I have a mobile mechanic coming this afternoon to bleed the system so I will report back whether it makes a difference.