Technical How to check injectors?

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Technical How to check injectors?

vangolubari

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Hello.

I have bought my first (ever fiat) scudo with damaged engine. It sounds like it is working on 3 cylinders.
How can I approach to troubleshooting on engine fuel failure?
As first I would like to check injectors.

Thank you
 
Hello.

I have bought my first (ever fiat) scudo with damaged engine. It sounds like it is working on 3 cylinders.
How can I approach to troubleshooting on engine fuel failure?
As first I would like to check injectors.

Thank you
Would need to know more details as to age, engine size and series number etc. I am assuming it is a diesel.
Is there a reason you suspect the injectors?
Unless it is quite an old , i.e. pre Common Rail injection system or just a faulty electrical connection to one injector, generally if one injector fails on a modern system the whole engine will not run.
Are there any other signs, error code, warning lights on dashboard,strange noises, losing oil, smoking,losing water coolant, overheating etc. White smoke on starting + hard to start from cold?
I would also like to know there was nothing major inside the engine causing the misfire, such as low compression.
This should be tested with as suitable compression gauge for diesel engines, however as a rough guide and with ignition OFF! I would try and turn the engine over with a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft pulley bolt carefully and see if you have four even compressions as you turn the engine over several revolutions.
This is not a perfect guide but if observant it can give you a rough idea if one cylinder is weaker than the others, without buying an expensive compression gauge, although the correct tools are the best option.
 
Thank you.

After some thinking I decided to com mechanic with PC diagnostic device. The defects are: 2 injectors, wiring on fuel pressure sensor, sensor on pulleys
of valve shaft.

Then he sad that there is a tube of turbo leaking somewhere.
I will work on it next weekend.
 
Thank you.

After some thinking I decided to com mechanic with PC diagnostic device. The defects are: 2 injectors, wiring on fuel pressure sensor, sensor on pulleys
of valve shaft.

Then he sad that there is a tube of turbo leaking somewhere.
I will work on it next weekend.
If you give some details, engine series, error codes etc. I am sure there will be someone here with the experience to advise.
You will not be the first person with the problem.:)
 
Engine is not original. It was 90 hp. This one is 109 hp RHZ. Injectors have been replaced. Still engine is not runing corectly. Next is the video about sound of engine:
 
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Does sound a bit rough at the exhaust end.
RHZ 2.0litre JTD 110hp DW10ATED(RHZ) 1997cc 1999-07 According to Auto Dat Manual.
To me it almost sounds like a exhaust valve.A bit "chuffy"
Do you have any way to do a "Leak Test" on it, I don't mean a leak off test at the injectors, I mean where you pressurise the combustion chamber on each separate cylinder to locate loss of power i.e. head gasket ,piston,ex. valve, inlet valve. etc.
 
Thank you.

Do you have any way to do a "Leak Test" on it, I don't mean a leak off test at the injectors, I mean where you pressurise the combustion chamber on each separate cylinder to locate loss of power i.e. head gasket ,piston,ex. valve, inlet valve. etc.
No. I need mechanic to do it. Actually I don't understand what do you mean?

Mechanic was once here. He instructed me to replace all injectors. And the tube on turbo. So I did it. I can't tell that now is better for sure. Maybe a little.
I can hear kind of counter blow (tomorrow I will try to do another video from distance) .
I have got another engine for the replacement parts and there I have an egr valve. To replace it I would probably need new seals?

Maybe I will have to look for another mechanic....
 
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Thank you.


No. I need mechanic to do it. Actually I don't understand what do you mean?

Mechanic was once here. He instructed me to replace all injectors. And the tube on turbo. So I did it. I can't tell that now is better for sure. Maybe a little.
I can hear kind of counter blow (tomorrow I will try to do another video from distance) .
I have got another engine for the replacement parts and there I have an egr valve. To replace it I would probably need new seals?

Maybe I will have to look for another mechanic....
Leak test is good , but a bit specialised, so if not mechanically minded best left for now.:)
 
Do I need special tools?
There is a special kit to do the job, however if you have a bit of mechanical skill, a garage compressor(I use 150psi) some airline hose and and a suitable adaptor made to fit either an old injector or heater plug to fit your engine it can be done.
I have mentioned it here on Forum before , but basically you test each engine cylinder individually, positioned at TDC on the firing stroke of that cylinder, you then lock it up and mark the pulley, so it doesn't move from that position,( this is critical as it only needs to move a few degrees and one of the valves will open giving a false reading,) then introduce your 150psi via the adaptor to that cylinder, then look /listen for the air leak, coolant tank with lid off, water raising slightly or overflowing in the radiator=headgasket/cracked head, air blowing from oil filler= blow by past the pistons/rings, air blowing out the exhaust pipe=exhaust valve, air blowing out the inlet carb/throttle body= inlet valve.
It takes a while to do all cylinders, but is accurate and conclusive. The proper kit is a bit more fancy and measures the percentage difference between cylinders etc. but does the same job.
It helps if the garage compressor is not beside the engine as you are trying to hear any leaks, so you want it quiet.;)
 
Thank you for the explanation. While standing in front of engine to orientate about the leak test. I noticed that the water expansion tank is to dark, I have checked it and I have find dirt.. Looks like oil-water mixture to me. I have another engine. I was rebuilding diesel Perkins 4108 on my sailing boat with help on sailors forum.
Can I get support to do the engine swap here?

I will get mechanic also at the end of week. Maybe he can find the solution.
 
Thank you for the explanation. While standing in front of engine to orientate about the leak test. I noticed that the water expansion tank is to dark, I have checked it and I have find dirt.. Looks like oil-water mixture to me. I have another engine. I was rebuilding diesel Perkins 4108 on my sailing boat with help on sailors forum.
Can I get support to do the engine swap here?

I will get mechanic also at the end of week. Maybe he can find the solution.
In your video there looked like condensation coming from the exhaust tail pipe, if that was not just due to a cold engine but a head gasket etc. then a leak test as described would guide you better.
Re engine swap, maybe a Haynes Manual on your model will guide in the general part, whilst I an sure Forum Members will be able to help with specifics.
If engine was running fine but had oil in water it can come from a faulty oil cooler, I had this in a 1.6 Doblo Multijet and an VW Audi car.
By the way I quite liked the Perkins 4.108 engine (slow but economical) and had them in a Mk 1 Ford Transit, a CF Bedford van and finally I put one in a fishing boat I had ( that engine was one of the last ones they made which had stronger head bolts/studs and if my memory serves me right dry liners and came from a HydroVane road drill compressor) in my quest for engines/spares I came across an old gentleman who told me he was involved in the original design of them, he said in a vehicle they were OK , but in a boat at constant revs and with regular oil changes they should go on for ever, I know mine certainly did.:)
 
My car had a bad maintenance before. I have find an mechanic whom let me work with his guidance in his garage.
We have find the fault. It was that small lever between valve shaft and valve was broken (I don*t know name for it) .
Thank you. I have now to move and work on, to put car on the road.
Thank you.
 
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