Beach
New member
Hi, I've had my fiat eleganza clutch brake fluid flushed and replaces but the car is now self revving and shaking. Has anyone experienced that before and if so how did you deal with it? Thank you!
Technical Help please - if anyone has had a problem with car shake and self revving post garage clutch brake fluid flush/replacement?
- Thread starter Beach
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Technical Help please - if anyone has had a problem with car shake and self revving post garage clutch brake fluid flush/replacement?
Hello,
Fiat Eleganza? Don't know the model. Can you share some details, please?
Fiat Eleganza? Don't know the model. Can you share some details, please?
Mike1alike
Established member
There is definitely a vacuum leak. Extra air gets inside the manifold. Could be a snapped hose, a worn gasket or faulty intake air control valve.
OP
OP
Beach
New member
Hi Mike,
Thank you so much. I've had the car a month and all was running fine. I took it to the garage for a full car check and was told the Vacuum pipes were fine but clutch and break flush needed. Picked it up and sounded odd on the way home. Left it for a day and then came the revving and shuddering. So frustrating re the Mechanic! I really appreciate your help.
Many thanks and enjoy the rest of the weekend.
OP
OP
Beach
New member
Hi,
Thanks for your email: it's a Fiat Panda Eleganza 2007 but I don't think I need any parts at the moment. Will contact you if I do though, thanks.
That's the model I know
Everyone does.
No connection between clutch and brake fluid change and the engine
if it was fine before and faulty after the fluid change it needs to go back ASAP, before the connection gets lost, fingers crossed it's just something knocked
Petrol or diesel
Normally I would expect a garage to change fluid using a pressure bleeder system. It is possible that they have just pumped the brake pedal to push the fluid through. The brake pedal has moved further than it has for years, and so has the diaphragm in the booster, which may have split. There's a vacuum connection from the engine to the booster, and if the diaphragm has split, air will now leak through, causing fast tickover due to the air leak.
As said above, the garage should fix the fault they caused, but they will probably want you to pay for the new booster if needed. Argue as strongly as you can, but don't raise your voice.
Pinch the hose to the booster, , to temporary seal it, with the engine ticking over. If the problem settles, it confirms the booster failure.
As said above, the garage should fix the fault they caused, but they will probably want you to pay for the new booster if needed. Argue as strongly as you can, but don't raise your voice.
Pinch the hose to the booster, , to temporary seal it, with the engine ticking over. If the problem settles, it confirms the booster failure.
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The brake booster is also known as the vacuum servo.
@portland_bill has provided some solid advice for a quick check.
In the first instance push the garage about this, I would not do much until you know where you stand with them.
@Beach is the car revving in cycles like this the RPM is cycling up and down in idle? Can you describe this some more or attach a short video? This is important information.
If you have to do this yourself I would do the following two tests from this webpage and report back - they are quick and easy: Brake_Booster_Tests
The brake booster line is indicated here in orange and is the solid black tube that runs from the top of the engine (near the throttle body) to the brake booster. If air is leaking through this line into the engine it may overfeed air to the engine. As it is a vacuum tube it is quite hard (as I remember it). @portland_bill suggests pinching it off to check by stopping a leak if it is there. However, you need to be careful so as not to damage it, like with a thick cloth on it and some vice grips. Don't commit if you think you might damage it.
If pinching is not possible you could disconnect it, start the engine, let it idle, block the port to the engine (that you removed the pipe from) with your finger and see if idle improves (as this removes any potential leak). If it does there is something wrong on the booster line.
For reference the brake booster is this part and the pipe you wish to block goes into the large circular black part that houses the diaphragm:
In the first instance push the garage about this, I would not do much until you know where you stand with them.
@Beach is the car revving in cycles like this the RPM is cycling up and down in idle? Can you describe this some more or attach a short video? This is important information.
If you have to do this yourself I would do the following two tests from this webpage and report back - they are quick and easy: Brake_Booster_Tests
- Basic Operational Test
- Hard Brake Pedal Test
The brake booster line is indicated here in orange and is the solid black tube that runs from the top of the engine (near the throttle body) to the brake booster. If air is leaking through this line into the engine it may overfeed air to the engine. As it is a vacuum tube it is quite hard (as I remember it). @portland_bill suggests pinching it off to check by stopping a leak if it is there. However, you need to be careful so as not to damage it, like with a thick cloth on it and some vice grips. Don't commit if you think you might damage it.
If pinching is not possible you could disconnect it, start the engine, let it idle, block the port to the engine (that you removed the pipe from) with your finger and see if idle improves (as this removes any potential leak). If it does there is something wrong on the booster line.
For reference the brake booster is this part and the pipe you wish to block goes into the large circular black part that houses the diaphragm:
