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General Head Gasket Help - 1108 MPI

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General Head Gasket Help - 1108 MPI

Just been reading this thread because I can't seem to get the tappet bucket down. Either I'm not strong enough to put enough force on it or I'm doing it wrong. I'm worried to try and lever it against anything so I'm just trying to use a big screwdriver and it's not working. I can't see how the tool would help either :confused: Maybe I'm missing something
 
Nope, not straightforward, so its your call whether you do it or not.

To me, it would make sense to do it.

It might be worth having a chat with your machine shop. They should be quite happy to cut the seats and reset the tappets for you.

Cheer

SPD
 
You need spring compressor, abrasive paste and stick with kids arrow rubber plunger end, otherwise easy.

Noel
 
Well TBH I think that's out of my knowledge range, but I would like to do the shims myself

Is it easiest to take the cam out? seeing as quite a few need changing

I'm pretty sure I'm doing this right, rallycinq I read on another thread you said if you have to choose between slightly bigger and slightly smaller then bigger is better-

My results:

1 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.5 - OK
2 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.35 (Tight) - take 0.05 from current shim to give a gap of 0.4 (tight)
3 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.40 (Loose) - take 0.10 from current shim to give a gap of 0.5 (loose)
4 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.35 (Tight) - take 0.05 from current shim to give a gap of 0.4 (tight)
5 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.35 (Loose) - leave it alone as it's close enough
6 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.50 - OK
7 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.35 (Tight) - take 0.05 from current shim to give a gap of 0.4 (tight)
8 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.45 - take 0.05 from current shim to give a gap of 0.5

What do you think?
 
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Easiest way is to remove the cam. That way you don't need a special tool (there is one, it sort of levers on the cam) to remove the shims.

Otherwise, OK, but youi can now check your exising shims against the targets. or example (silly) -- if the clearance was 10 and should have been 8 (lose) you need a shim 2 bigger than the existing shim.
 
I was quoting 'loose' and 'tight' because my feeler blades only go up by 0.05 each time, i.e. 0.05, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35 etc. etc.

However upon removing the cam and the shims I found they go up in increments of 0.01, I didn't appreciate this, i will either have to guestimate the right shims or put the cam back, and remeasure with more accurate feeler blades (that measure to 0.01)
 
Well having bought a DECENT feeler gauge today that go up in 0.01 increments (I say this as the measurements I've got this time are far different to the measurements I got with the no-name gauge yesterday) I have obtained these results:

1 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.5 - OK
2 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.38 - Near as makes no difference
3 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.48 - Near as makes no difference
4 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.39 - Near as makes no difference
5 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.40 - OK
6 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.50 - OK
7 - Target 0.4 - Measured 0.40 - OK
8 - Target 0.5 - Measured 0.49 - Near as makes no difference

So no adjustment needed this time it seems. Lesson learnt - Buy better quality tools.

The one thing I am puzzled about is the torque setting for the cam bearing bolts - the Haynes cinq manual seems to list two different values -

Camshaft caps:
M8 X 1.25.......................................20Nm 15lb/ft
M8.................................................10Nm 7lb/ft

Anyone know which one is correct?

EDIT just checked the FAQs and it says exactly the same there, two settings listed?
EDIT just searched and it's been explained in another thread apparently they are 20Nm the 10Nm refers to the bolts haolding the coil packs on
 
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Is it true that the cambelt must not come into contact with oil? Because when the head came back from the skimming place it was completely covered in oil; I've just finished removing it from the mating face but it is on the cam wheel too. And I still only have white spirit here to remove it with. I'm assuming this has to be done
 
gp3000000 said:
Is it true that the cambelt must not come into contact with oil? Because when the head came back from the skimming place it was completely covered in oil; I've just finished removing it from the mating face but it is on the cam wheel too. And I still only have white spirit here to remove it with. I'm assuming this has to be done
Click to expand...

Yup, but why was the cam belt anywhere near the machine shop?

Cheers

SPD
 
I've just re-read that and I didn't word it very well at all.

The cambelt wasn't in the machine shop but the cam wheel was. Which has now got rather a lot of oil on it. Along with the rest of the head.

And it will easily transfer onto the cambelt upon refitting

Also, do the head bolts need dipping in oil before refitting? They are new bolts.
 
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Certainly you'll want to clean the oil off the cam pulley.

Yes you should dip the head bolts in clean oil then let them drain for 30 min.
 
gp3000000 said:
I've just re-read that and I didn't word it very well at all.

The cambelt wasn't in the machine shop but the cam wheel was. Which has now got rather a lot of oil on it. Along with the rest of the head.

And it will easily transfer onto the cambelt upon refitting

Also, do the head bolts need dipping in oil before refitting? They are new bolts.
Click to expand...

Degrease everything before assembly. Cleanliness is next to godliness.

Cheers

SPD
 
The cam's back in now, so how do I get oil in the bearings? I did wonder if it was a good idea to put some more oil on the cam.
 
The head is back on now, as are the inlet & exhaust manifolds, I am in the process of refitting the cambelt, but having lined up the marks on pulleys with the marks on the head & block, and the lines on the belt, I am now trying to tension the belt. The Haynes says it should deflect 90degrees on it's longest run (which I assume is between crank pulley and tensioner?) as do countless threads on here, but I found this thread in which ycming says that rallycinq told him that there should be 1 inch of deflection in the longest run, which rallycinq doesn't deny in a later post. But having tensioned the belt I can turn it about 90degrees on the longest run, but it deflects only slightly more than 1centimetre. Did ycming mean 1cm not 1 inch? Rallycinq could you advise?

Thanks for all the help so far, on the finishing straight now!
 
gp3000000 said:
The head is back on now, as are the inlet & exhaust manifolds, I am in the process of refitting the cambelt, but having lined up the marks on pulleys with the marks on the head & block, and the lines on the belt, I am now trying to tension the belt. The Haynes says it should deflect 90degrees on it's longest run (which I assume is between crank pulley and tensioner?) as do countless threads on here, but I found this thread in which ycming says that rallycinq told him that there should be 1 inch of deflection in the longest run, which rallycinq doesn't deny in a later post. But having tensioned the belt I can turn it about 90degrees on the longest run, but it deflects only slightly more than 1centimetre. Did ycming mean 1cm not 1 inch? Rallycinq could you advise?

Thanks for all the help so far, on the finishing straight now!
Click to expand...

I might have not denied it but I did say 90 degrees was the better way. The deflection method needs a spring balance as its a deflection at a certain poundage.

Cheers

SPD
 
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