General have I fixed it?

[peter0003]

Hi All, I orignally asked about the drivers electric window being faulty and on inspection. I handled the wirring loom in the rubber tube between the body & the door by taking the r/tube away from the door & body but not off the wire. I gently moved the wire to look at it to see if it was worn or torn due to wear and tear, which there were none in either side of the holes and the wiring was suitated in the middle of the big hole in the bodywork & door of my 2009 Panda 1.2 dynamic eco. Then after handling the wirring loom I tried the button & by a miracle the window glass moved up & down again. Have I fixed ior not Peter0003

 

[koalar]

Probably only temporary
There's a coupling in the A pillar, I would be tempted to disconnect the battery negative and pull it apart and push it back together, to scratch any oxides of

Reconnect the battery and wiggle the wires while playing with the switch and see if you can get it to fail, last thing you want is to pay for a parking ticket and the window to stay down in the middle of winter


They rarely fix themselves permently

 

[kmor panda]

Hi All, I orignally asked about the drivers electric window being faulty and on inspection. I handled the wirring loom in the rubber tube between the body & the door by taking the r/tube away from the door & body but not off the wire. I gently moved the wire to look at it to see if it was worn or torn due to wear and tear, which there were none in either side of the holes and the wiring was suitated in the middle of the big hole in the bodywork & door of my 2009 Panda 1.2 dynamic eco. Then after handling the wirring loom I tried the button & by a miracle the window glass moved up & down again. Have I fixed ior not Peter0003

It seems that you have an intermittent problem with the DS electric window which could easily be a partial break in one of the cables that go through the door.

Following the Haynes circuit diagram, 72 is the motor in the drivers door with two wires (Z/N) Purple/Black to pin 1 of the motor and a (Z) Purple to pin 2 with the reverse connected via the door to M4 and M5 of the Body Computer Module (7). The sensory circuit within (7) monitors the load of the motor and stops it automatically at the end of travel. Unlike most cars, these are standard motors not stepper motors - as a result, there is not a serious of steps for the BCU to memorize, only the increased load. Therefore, to check the cables and the motor, disconnect the multiplug that is at the footwell driver side and using a 9v square battery connected only to the wires that go to the motor, see if the motor drives the window up / down while flexing the cables. It might be a good idea to replace the two wires (Z/N, Z)

The second issue that could be causeing problems are within the drivers side switch (70), so to test that, unplug it and check for continuity between pin 1 to 3 and pins 2 to 3 depending which way you press the button. If you have intermittent contacts in the switch, replace same as they are realitively cheap / available in car breakers etc.

In relation to the window mechanism, they tend to dry out, so it might be a good idea to use a form of silicon grease on the moving parts.

 

[koalar]

It seems that you have an intermittent problem with the DS electric window which could easily be a partial break in one of the cables that go through the door.

View attachment 429085Following the Haynes circuit diagram, 72 is the motor in the drivers door with two wires (Z/N) Purple/Black to pin 1 of the motor and a (Z) Purple to pin 2 with the reverse connected via the door to M4 and M5 of the Body Computer Module (7). The sensory circuit within (7) monitors the load of the motor and stops it automatically at the end of travel. Unlike most cars, these are standard motors not stepper motors - as a result, there is not a serious of steps for the BCU to memorize, only the increased load.

The wiring diagram is incorrect, it was changed in 2008

Therefore, to check the cables and the motor, disconnect the multiplug that is at the footwell driver side and using a 9v square battery connected only to the wires that go to the motor, see if the motor drives the window up / down while flexing the cables. It might be a good idea to replace the two wires (Z/N, Z)

They are around 10 amps at 13 volts

Decrease the voltage you need to increase the amps

It's unlikely someone will have anything lying around capable of doing this

Bypassing any protection and Injecting voltage and current (over 10A) into a potentially faulty circuit it a very dangous game, with the possibility to start a fire

The second issue that could be causeing problems are within the drivers side switch (70), so to test that, unplug it and check for continuity between pin 1 to 3 and pins 2 to 3 depending which way you press the button. If you have intermittent contacts in the switch, replace same as they are realitively cheap / available in car breakers etc.

In relation to the window mechanism, they tend to dry out, so it might be a good idea to use a form of silicon grease on the moving parts.