I don't think the hydraulic fluid offers much resistance - pushing it uphill - just going on my experience with front calipers. They're always easier than rear calipers and they have more fluid to push (larger diameter).
Getting the rear caliper pistons to move in can be tricky, as sometimes they seem to rotate without moving in, as though they've fallen off the threads (perhaps this happens if the brake pedal is accidentally pushed with the caliper removed). I've had to very carefully give a squeeze with a G-clamp, then try to rotate (with the cube-shaped 3/8" drive tool), then squeeze, etc. This has always worked eventually BUT with the Stilo, I must remember to turn the other way for one side
It would be ideal to have a G-clamp with a matching screw thread and the turning-part having protrusions to engage in the piston. That would be a very useful tool. Is that what the FIAT tool looks like?
Meanwhile, as we all seem to agree, it's better to let the fluid out of the caliper when replacing pads on cars like the Stilo. Three advantages: no risk to the ABS (as Decks mentioned), dirt and moisture tends to sit at the lowest point so the caliper contains the worst fluid (as Argonought mentioned), and finally my reason: the reservoir may have been topped-up as the pads wore down, so pushing fluid back into it will cause a messy overflow. Not as important as the other two reasons, but a factor anyway
In reality though, I use the opportunity to change the fluid when I do a pad change since it's usually every three years or so. I just hook up a clear plastic tube and put it into a bottle/jar on top of something, above the level of the caliper. Then when I slacken the bleed nipple, I can see the fluid seeping out. A few pumps of the pedal to empty the reservoir, then fill up with new fluid and I can see the fluid being changed - from dirty to clean. This all takes perhaps ten minutes with the wheels already off the car. Brake fluid is cheap considering how important it is, and it should be changed every two years from what I've read. My guess is that most Stilos will still have the original fluid...
The great thing is that there's no need for an assistant, because if the system is never empty, it's just a case of pushing fluid through with the pedal. Having the jar/bottle above the caliper means that the bleed nipple is completely immersed; no risk of air getting in before tightening and plenty of chance to inspect for air bubbles. Of course, the tubing is essential for this, and I'd never open the bleed nipple without a tube attached - that would be asking for trouble.
I find if the tubing is rinsed with water after use, it stays clear and flexible for longer (brake fluid seems to make PVC pipe hard and opaque!)
-Alex
Getting the rear caliper pistons to move in can be tricky, as sometimes they seem to rotate without moving in, as though they've fallen off the threads (perhaps this happens if the brake pedal is accidentally pushed with the caliper removed). I've had to very carefully give a squeeze with a G-clamp, then try to rotate (with the cube-shaped 3/8" drive tool), then squeeze, etc. This has always worked eventually BUT with the Stilo, I must remember to turn the other way for one side
It would be ideal to have a G-clamp with a matching screw thread and the turning-part having protrusions to engage in the piston. That would be a very useful tool. Is that what the FIAT tool looks like?
Meanwhile, as we all seem to agree, it's better to let the fluid out of the caliper when replacing pads on cars like the Stilo. Three advantages: no risk to the ABS (as Decks mentioned), dirt and moisture tends to sit at the lowest point so the caliper contains the worst fluid (as Argonought mentioned), and finally my reason: the reservoir may have been topped-up as the pads wore down, so pushing fluid back into it will cause a messy overflow. Not as important as the other two reasons, but a factor anyway
In reality though, I use the opportunity to change the fluid when I do a pad change since it's usually every three years or so. I just hook up a clear plastic tube and put it into a bottle/jar on top of something, above the level of the caliper. Then when I slacken the bleed nipple, I can see the fluid seeping out. A few pumps of the pedal to empty the reservoir, then fill up with new fluid and I can see the fluid being changed - from dirty to clean. This all takes perhaps ten minutes with the wheels already off the car. Brake fluid is cheap considering how important it is, and it should be changed every two years from what I've read. My guess is that most Stilos will still have the original fluid...
The great thing is that there's no need for an assistant, because if the system is never empty, it's just a case of pushing fluid through with the pedal. Having the jar/bottle above the caliper means that the bleed nipple is completely immersed; no risk of air getting in before tightening and plenty of chance to inspect for air bubbles. Of course, the tubing is essential for this, and I'd never open the bleed nipple without a tube attached - that would be asking for trouble.
I find if the tubing is rinsed with water after use, it stays clear and flexible for longer (brake fluid seems to make PVC pipe hard and opaque!)
-Alex
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