General guide mk1 head gasket

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General guide mk1 head gasket

The Sultan

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i done my head gasket and took lots of in depth pictures

so soon will be making a guide when i have it all back together

not sure if there are any decent guides on the mk1 1.1 1.2 8v head gaskets yet so should be really usefull

pictures tell a thousand words or so they say
 

canon

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Have done a few myself, needless to say an in-depth guide would have made everything a great deal easier. Looking forward to seeing it...to see what I've done wrong :yum:
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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ill go find that now and pick holes in it

does a seicento not spin round on you wile you do up the head bolts

yep loads of mistakes and unnecessary bits done in that

old fiats fires have the inlet manifold bolts in very easy to axcess places so no need to remove throttle body nor was there a need to take it or the manifold off the car that was nuts

you don't need the wheel arch liner off cos you can use the other end timing marks for the cambelt leaving the pulley and alternator belt all in place unless you want to change cam belt witch you don't it's a safe 8v lol

the tensioner does not have to be done up with a crow bar ffs you can actually set it to the correct in the book tightening with your hand they run very lose i would exspec his tensioner bearing failing about now

never mind the unessesary stress on the crank and cam water pump and such

the head bolts tipex is he not capable of turning them 90 buy eye or use a proper measuring tool

he didnt clean the block nearly enoughth

he should be ashamed for keeping coolant in such a state

he bent the oil sprayer rails for the cam shaft no idea how
 
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the tensioner does not have to be done up with a crow bar ffs you can actually set it to the correct in the book tightening with your hand they run very lose i would exspec his tensioner bearing failing about now

Agreed. If cambelt was tightened with a crowbar, it probably makes a whining noise. :(

the head bolts tipex is he not capable of turning them 90 buy eye or use a proper measuring tool

I thought you were a bit harsh here ;) - seemed a good idea to me and also useful if someone distracts you during the tightening process - you can see at a glance which ones you've done. But, I would always recommend the use of new bolts. They tighten up so much easier - they stretch. Old bolts are already stretched so they're not going to work as well at keeping the gasket compressed. I've re-used bolts on occasion but then I had a replacement gasket blow out between two cylinders. No more problems after I used new bolts.

he didnt clean the block nearly enoughth

Agreed. Where you see the new head gasket against the head, it's obviously not clean (n) I suggest carburettor cleaner/razor blade, then Scotchbrite.

he should be ashamed for keeping coolant in such a state

Yes, bad.

OK - let's see your guide then - it's gonna be great (y)

-Alex
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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Agreed. If cambelt was tightened with a crowbar, it probably makes a whining noise. :(



I thought you were a bit harsh here ;) - seemed a good idea to me and also useful if someone distracts you during the tightening process - you can see at a glance which ones you've done. But, I would always recommend the use of new bolts. They tighten up so much easier - they stretch. Old bolts are already stretched so they're not going to work as well at keeping the gasket compressed. I've re-used bolts on occasion but then I had a replacement gasket blow out between two cylinders. No more problems after I used new bolts.



Agreed. Where you see the new head gasket against the head, it's obviously not clean (n) I suggest carburettor cleaner/razor blade, then Scotchbrite.



Yes, bad.

OK - let's see your guide then - it's gonna be great (y)

-Alex

i hope so

i'm getting the head back tomorrow got all my parts also a new thermostat cos it never seems to get warm driving

in the case of head bolts as it's a fiat 8v fire i wont be replacing them cos they never cause a problem but will be cleaning the threads up a bit lol althou saying that i have checked them for stretch running my fingers down them cos if they have past there yield point they have a very defined thin patch in them this is rare thou easy to spot thou

in any other engine i would be replacing them liike the one i did on a mates corsa 1.4 16v 30 nm pluss 90 pluss 90 pluss 90 pluss 45 :eek:

as most machine shops tell you to remove cams and buckets ill be covering in great detail were to glue and how to seal the head properly

too many people asume oil can't leak out between two highly polished metal surfaces well i'm sorry it will by the bucket load

heres the pictures i have so far

http://s193.photobucket.com/albums/z70/littlepip17/head gasket job/
 
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chaos

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you don't need the wheel arch liner off cos you can use the other end timing marks for the cambelt leaving the pulley and alternator belt all in place unless you want to change cam belt witch you don't it's a safe 8v lol

For a 'Cento, you do. There wouldn't be enough space on the other side of a Cinq engine bay.
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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For a 'Cento, you do. There wouldn't be enough side on the other side of a Cinq engine bay.

to replace the belt yes but if your reusing it as it's a safe fire 8v then you can always peek in the hole on the gearbox housing to get it on top dead cento or chink either has it
 
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surely you should always replace the belt? even if its a safe engine i wouldnt fancie being stranded somewhere and having to do it again when it snaps.

tensioner should be replaced too, common to fail.
 

chaos

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to replace the belt yes but if your reusing it as it's a safe fire 8v then you can always peek in the hole on the gearbox housing to get it on top dead cento or chink either has it

Assuming the cam timing is spot on (i.e. at TDC).
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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Assuming the cam timing is spot on (i.e. at TDC).

not really

you turn it till the mark on the fly wheel comes round then it is on tdc

and yea i have a new tensioner they always failing normally after overheating it forces grease out of em

as it happens i never seen an 8v lose a belt because the belt failed normally something else to blaim like tensioner or serious over tightening or pump

infact uk is the only market were fiat change the 8v belt in other countries it's a life of the vehicle item
 
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chaos

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not really

you turn it till the mark on the fly wheel comes round then it is on tdc

Hang on, I'm a little confused as to what you're saying. I'm not talking about the crank and the piston being at TDC, I'm talking about the cam itself being in the correct position.

Also, if you have a Cento (either Cinq or Sei) and it has the cam belt cover fitted then you'll need to remove the arch liner to get it out. You'll also need the arch liner out to get at the tensioner. There may be enough room in a Punto to do it without removing the liner; in a Cinq (which is what the guide is written from) you'll be hard pressed to do it with the arch liner in situ.
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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Hang on, I'm a little confused as to what you're saying. I'm not talking about the crank and the piston being at TDC, I'm talking about the cam itself being in the correct position.

Also, if you have a Cento (either Cinq or Sei) and it has the cam belt cover fitted then you'll need to remove the arch liner to get it out. You'll also need the arch liner out to get at the tensioner. There may be enough room in a Punto to do it without removing the liner; in a Cinq (which is what the guide is written from) you'll be hard pressed to do it with the arch liner in situ.

well what i meant was the alternator pulley and that belt could be left on if the belt is staying

also if the belt is being changed you don't need to loosen off the alternator you can undo the 3 bolts on the pulley and let it slip off it's easy to get them 3 bolts started again wuth the alternator were it was and use them to wind it tight again no problem it saves you altering the tension on it

also does sei and cink not have a small guard screwed to the arch liner that needs to be removed not the hole arch liner

i was just pointing out that you dont need to see the end of the crank to time up the engine hence leaving most of the liner in place just enoughth to get covers off obviously

i believe i got a cover out the top on a seicento at some stage surely it must be posible

anyway an update on mine i didnt get any transport for the head today so it's still in lancaster i think lol

so looks like i will be bolting it back tomorow

today i cleaned up the block top removed some nuts from studs ready to go back in the head

also i have tracked down some tappets well quite allot actually hiden away at work

so i will be making every clearance in the head perfect will also cover that i the guide or maybe a seperate guide i dont know any ideas
 
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chaos

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also does sei and cink not have a small guard screwed to the arch liner that needs to be removed not the hole arch liner

The Cinq doesn't (it's all one piece); not 100% sure about the Sei.
 
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The Sultan

The Sultan

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you know ive decided the guide making thing on the forum is rubbish it takes too long ill make a pdf or something and link it lol

edit: oh how about power point
 
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Bernardi

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Nice one Littlepip, more people like you needed on this Forum.
Your pics are very good and your idea of a power point would be a great help to others.
How much do you think it would cost to do this job in a garage?
And last question, how long does it take to replace the head gasket?
 

canon

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you know ive decided the guide making thing on the forum is rubbish it takes too long ill make a pdf or something and link it lol

edit: oh how about power point
Even better, will be able to print directly then (y)
 
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