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I have a couple kicking about.
Nice fabrication work
I was thinking of adjustable bottom arms for camber adjustment but like your idea will there be any adjustment maybe elongate the hole ?
I just made the hole bean or horseshoe shaped 4mm towards the wheel, and while tightening the screws i pushed the hub mount towards the shock absorber , that moved the screw to its new location, than tightened in firmly, 4x4 has m12 not m10 bolts, so it can be tightened harder. I achieved a nice equal wheel chamber on both wheels, it works for a year and a half now, doing plenty of offroad. Nothing has loosened, or damaged.Making the hole horseshoe shaped would give better adjustment but I'd need some way of locking the hub in place. Would stock bolts be enough?
Liquid Knight said:It'll either work brilliantly or not at all. Either way it's cost me an hour and a couple of bits of scrap.
I just made the hole bean or horseshoe shaped 4mm towards the wheel, and while tightening the screws i pushed the hub mount towards the shock absorber , that moved the screw to its new location, than tightened in firmly, 4x4 has m12 not m10 bolts, so it can be tightened harder. I achieved a nice equal wheel chamber on both wheels, it works for a year and a half now, doing plenty of offroad. Nothing has loosened, or damaged.
Some cars have bean-shaped shock mounts as an OE option, standard solution for adjustable camber, there are no filed down washers, or other "fillers", just bean-hole and strong bolts.
In my trekking 4x4 I moved the upper hole 4mm to counteract the positive camber{ after installing 18mm plates between macperson and its mount} , 4mm gave me almost perfect zero neutral{ minus 0.16} wheel camber, your heavy mod may give deep negative, good for drifting and cornering