General Guff II

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General Guff II

There have been a few horror stories floating around the forums about cars being stopped for having tyres sticking out of their wheel arches. These stories vary from a verbal warning to a £100 fine and up to six points. Construction and use regulations being spouted about like Jehovah Witnesses when you mention the word Darwinism.

Now the rear of Guff II isn't an issue but the front...

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...is borderline (thumbsnap has crashed again so the rest will be booked on my face).

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This could be compensated for by the weight of the engine when installed but I don't want to either take that chance or have to stick stupid "J-Tuner" arches on the car.

So I got the other spare hub mount (if you recall I used the first one to make a template for my big brake hangers)...

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...cut a section out of it...

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...found an off cut of roll cage tube...

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...cut that in half length ways...

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...welded it in place...

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...even though I had good penetration I welded up inside as well...

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...flap the outside nice and clean and cut the excess from the top...

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...I then welded a small plate in place to tidy the bottom of the pipe...

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...and all that's left to do is borrow my mates pillar drill to make the new holes.

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It'll either work brilliantly or not at all. Either way it's cost me an hour and a couple of bits of scrap. ;)
 
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In my trekking 4x4 I moved the upper hole 4mm to counteract the positive camber{ after installing 18mm plates between macperson and its mount} , 4mm gave me almost perfect zero neutral{ minus 0.16} wheel camber, your heavy mod may give deep negative, good for drifting and cornering:)
 
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All done...

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...I'll trial fit it tomorrow as I have to repair the CV gaiter on my Fantasia if it works (fits) it'll be ready for a new bottom ball joint and paint. :)
 
Nice fabrication work (y)

I was thinking of adjustable bottom arms for camber adjustment but like your idea will there be any adjustment maybe elongate the hole ?
 
Nice fabrication work (y)

I was thinking of adjustable bottom arms for camber adjustment but like your idea will there be any adjustment maybe elongate the hole ?

Adjustable bottom arms would be problematic. The body ends would be simple rose joints but the hub end would need to be pivoted. Also the adjustment would limited by the drive shafts. By changing the camber at the upright this would be minimised (in theory).

Making the hole horseshoe shaped would give better adjustment but I'd need some way of locking the hub in place. Would stock bolts be enough?
 
Making the hole horseshoe shaped would give better adjustment but I'd need some way of locking the hub in place. Would stock bolts be enough?
I just made the hole bean or horseshoe shaped 4mm towards the wheel, and while tightening the screws i pushed the hub mount towards the shock absorber , that moved the screw to its new location, than tightened in firmly, 4x4 has m12 not m10 bolts, so it can be tightened harder. I achieved a nice equal wheel chamber on both wheels, it works for a year and a half now, doing plenty of offroad. Nothing has loosened, or damaged.

Some cars have bean-shaped shock mounts as an OE option, standard solution for adjustable camber, there are no filed down washers, or other "fillers", just bean-hole and strong bolts.
 
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Liquid Knight said:
It'll either work brilliantly or not at all. Either way it's cost me an hour and a couple of bits of scrap. ;)

I had neglected to check a very important thing.

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The bottom of the shock is square not round. :D

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So it doesn't work. At least I have some modern art for the next exhibition. ;)

I did notice however...

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...with the lower bolt in place and the hub mount pushed as far back as possible (to the brake line holder) there's almost a whole hole's worth of adjustment.

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With the bolt in place we can see there's a good five or six millimeters to play with. That would be enough to move the Guff tyres back under the arch and require nowhere near the amount of fabrication. :)
 
I just made the hole bean or horseshoe shaped 4mm towards the wheel, and while tightening the screws i pushed the hub mount towards the shock absorber , that moved the screw to its new location, than tightened in firmly, 4x4 has m12 not m10 bolts, so it can be tightened harder. I achieved a nice equal wheel chamber on both wheels, it works for a year and a half now, doing plenty of offroad. Nothing has loosened, or damaged.

Some cars have bean-shaped shock mounts as an OE option, standard solution for adjustable camber, there are no filed down washers, or other "fillers", just bean-hole and strong bolts.

:yeahthat: Plenty of cars have slotted holes, once the bolts are tight it should not move, they are a nightmare to adjust though as you very easily loose the original position when you release the bolt.
 
Just had a thought. If I weld a nut onto the hub carrier for the flexihose clamp I can grind the clamp location off the uprights and move the hub carrier as far back as the upright itself. Thus freeing another 2mm at least. :)
 
In my trekking 4x4 I moved the upper hole 4mm to counteract the positive camber{ after installing 18mm plates between macperson and its mount} , 4mm gave me almost perfect zero neutral{ minus 0.16} wheel camber, your heavy mod may give deep negative, good for drifting and cornering:)

Just making a mental note of this for when I jack up project Peterborough. ;)
 
After a frustrating morning messing about with GM products (that's the politest way of describing my sisters Corsa) I thought I'd spend some quality time with Guff II. Well try to fit the engine as it's in the way of the Alfa being collected tomorrow.

The FrankenFiat engine was installed in sections and the new engine is perfectly fine as it is so I decided to try and fit it whole.

After an hour I discovered the engine wouldn't drop in from the top. I even used the hoist the fourth and fifth time. So I lifted the car up and tried from underneath. Nope the drivers side drive shaft was in the way. So I have two choices. Take the drive shaft out or take the engine apart.

I tried taking the drive shaft out. With no weigh or brakes on the hub turning the 30mm nut resulted in the wheel turning and digging a little hole in my drive. I loosened the gearbox mounts to try and wobble the business end out of the box but the gearbox fell off instead. Oh well. I got the Cinquecento box out of my shed to see how difficult it would be to fit instead. My thinking here was fitting the engine and box together would be easier and the advantage of the five speed box is obvious now the car is being built with the track in mid instead of the quarter mile.

More fun is bound to follow. ;)
 
Bloody annoyed with the pile of crap today! :bang:

More later when I've calmed down a bit. If it wasn't for the new bits Guff II would be inn a skip right now. Grrrrrrrr! :mad:
 
Have you ever had one of those days where you overcome a hurdle to be met by a wall?

Since the £999 Challenge was canceled I've been finding it difficult to get motivated. What's the point in building a car for a race that's not going to happen? There's always next year but by then I would have put so much into the car a one day event wouldn't be enough to justify the time, money and effort. I could make the car for track use, but I can ill afford to run one Panda let alone ferry another around on the odd weekend I have off. So in earnest I continued.

After a little persuasion I managed to get the 750 gearbox out of Guff II.

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The plan is to fit the Cinquecento five speed box so I have a little more than 95mph flat out.

I knew I'd need to make custom mounts.

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The rear is a simple combination of the two existing ones.

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All good so far but no matter how I tired the gearbox refused to fit properly.

So I took the mount off and with the gearbox on my jack lined up the diff' to the hubs...

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...to see what was going wrong.

The extra gear sticks out and fouls the lower arm.

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The back of the gearbox fouls the bulkhead.

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Hmmmmmmm.... So I'm either stuck with the four speed or need to replace the whole lot.
 
I tried various positions measuring where the engine would be as well and the only place it could go was where it was up against the lower arm and bulkhead.

The new engine can go in Project Peterborough and I have another plan Guff II. :devil:
 
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