General Fitting aftermarket REMOTE central locking

[Bannedbiker]

Cool, so the current shape you can buy new still? I assume it is, being a pop.

If so then like you say, as you've a motor in the drivers door lock it should be a lot easier for you. You just need to find the feed in the wiring loom to the door for the lock and unlock signal

We have found two wires in the door loom; a black/white and an orange/green. One at a time shows a +12v compared to the chassis earth when the doors are un/locked, HOWEVER, if we then put a +12v signal to either wire to make the car un/lock, nothing happens!

Any ideas?

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

We have found two wires in the door loom; a black/white and an orange/green. One at a time shows a +12v compared to the chassis earth when the doors are un/locked, HOWEVER, if we then put a +12v signal to either wire to make the car un/lock, nothing happens!

Any ideas?

Right, if you're in the car and want to lock is do you push the door handle or is the a button you push on the dash to lock / unlock the entire car from inside

 

[Bannedbiker]

Just push the handle itself for lock, and pull it to unlock

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Just push the handle itself for lock, and pull it to unlock

Have you picked up which wires send / receive the 'signal' to lock and unlock? from vague memory (this is going back 5+ years) I think there may be more wiring involved. It sounds like what you've detected is the motor feed wiring rather than the 'signal' command wiring if that makes sense?

 

[Bannedbiker]

That makes perfect sense to me!
No though, we haven't found the signal command wires as you describe them, which I think is our problem! I did have the meter on all of the other wires in the connector block for the door loom, but didn't notice any other signal.
What sort of signal would I be looking for? 12v, 5v 0.25v?!
I noticed that the signal wire to sense that the door is shut is only giving a 0.25v signal...

I don't have the car in front of me, but from memory (of last night) in the door loom there were:
A pair of speaker wires (maybe yellow + yellow/black)
An earth (black)
An unknown wire (maybe white/black)
The two central locking motor wires already mentioned.
Two other larger gauge cables that we never saw any power on (one was brown, I forget the colour of the other one)

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

I think they (signal command wires) accepted (again this was on sisters 2004 mk3 Panda Active) a 12v feed, although somethings also telling me it might be have just been a connection to ground which signaled to lock and unlock.

Sorry I can't be much more help

One of the wires you mention though will be for interior light / door open signal I'd have thought, so don't forget this when working out what each wire does

 

[DigDug]

Have a look through my post history, I've done a write up of this for the 2004 panda, I'd imagine it'll be very similar.

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/289213-panda-eco-remote-central-locking-kit-fitting.html?p=3177603

Feel free to ask me any questions regarding the installation.

 

[boguing]

I've looked at several threads on remote locking, this one is the more promising for where I am.

I've bought a driver's door lock with motor.

I can buy the BCU to door loom.

I have a spare 4 channel remote transceiver and fobs.

I could cut the two wires that report the key lock position to the BCU and use them for the transceiver, but would prefer not to.

Does anybody know where the OEM transceiver is? If it's a separate module I'd guess that it has 5 connections. +12v, Earth, lock doors, unlock doors and release hatch (*). I could connect my transceiver there and so preserve the key central locking. I haven't yet, but would buy a solenoid for the boot and not care about changing the handle.

Obviously, if it's in the BCU I'm stuffed and will have to cut the wires. * It might also talk canbus to the BCU = equally stuffed.

I should probably start a thread for suggestions as to what I do with the 4th channel.

 

[koalar]

It been written many times

It in the body computer

If you want to go OEM you need the ECU, body computer, keys, locks, wiring, actuator

It's easier and cheaper to get a donor vehicle

Just getting the keys preprogrammed and added to the body computer is going to cost £250+

 

[boguing]

It been written many times

It in the body computer

If you want to go OEM you need the ECU, body computer, keys, locks, wiring, actuator

It's easier and cheaper to get a donor vehicle

Just getting the keys preprogrammed and added to the body computer is going to cost £250+

Ouch. Bodge it it is then.... Thanks for that.

 

[koalar]

It's not difficult if you can find a scrap car with two keys the same euro spec engine and throttle body type

It's just a matter of swapping everything over

The only other option is a 3rd party route

Sell the gearbox and engine will recoup the total cost

 

[boguing]

It's not difficult if you can find a scrap car with two keys the same euro spec engine and throttle body type

It's just a matter of swapping everything over

The only other option is a 3rd party route

Sell the gearbox and engine will recoup the total cost

A couple of years ago I'd have gone for that, health now says no unfortunately so I'll be taking the lazy option with a soldering iron. No point buying a loom.