Technical Fiat Punto 60 mk2/2b 2004 lean fuel mixture

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Technical Fiat Punto 60 mk2/2b 2004 lean fuel mixture

MarkoRantala

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Hi folks!

This time there is both a question and an answer.

It is a Fiat Punto Dynamic 60 5d mk2/2b 1.2 8v 2004. The problem is known. Go with a mixture that is too lean (Lambda 1.25). And that causes knocking in the engine. The knock is soft, similar to a carbon on piston, early ignition or low octane gasoline.

I must have read a hundred stories about the same problem, but I haven't found a solid answer to the cause.

Now that I understood that it must be a lean mixture so I tested lambda sensor 1 (bank 1) by disconnecting the wires (ecu start giving more gas). That was it. The knocking stopped immediately. And the car got more torque, etc. But what the heck does that?

MAP sensor for test. I used a normal multimeter, needles trough wires and the ventilation pipe of the gearbox. 4 voltages and by sucking the tube the volts dropped normally. So the reason was not in the MAP sensor. The car runs normally otherwise, if you hadn't dealt with cars for 30 years, you would notice that the gas consumption is incredibly low. And knocking, spark plugs white, little jerking. All these on a warm engine. And never at idle, all these under load + accelerating and start about 1800rpm.Gear 1 and 1800rpm is worst.

This is now. Next to find out what the heck could be the reason? I'm going to test the seals with a leaf blower and soapy water before replacing (I use a filter).The most interesting thing is that the better you make the car, the worse it gets, revealing a lean mixture. For example, I changed the plugs, the injector nozzles, the IACV etc.

Quite logical when you think about it. Game tips are gladly accepted if someone has encountered the same. 😉

Ps. I'll tell You, when I found that damn fault. (read if rather than when).
 
Model
Dynamic 60 1.2v
Year
2004
Mileage
190000
O2 sensor no longer giving accurate reading?
That was in my mind. Interesting if O2 sensor start acting like this? Fuel pressure tested by pressing valve (which is before nozzles) gas was all over. So it cannot be cause. (and if running fine after disconnect 02 sensor) so it must be a pressure enough...
And some guys are changed O2 sensor without any changes as well map sensor.
 
It is not possible to check fuel pressure by pressing the valve and seeing fuel.
A gauge has to be used at different engine power loads .
Neither does forcing the engine to run in open loop prove fuel pressure and flow correct.
 
It is not possible to check fuel pressure by pressing the valve and seeing fuel.
A gauge has to be used at different engine power loads .
You're might to be a right... Pressure when I push valve was when idling. Good point. That wasn't in my check list. Now it is and new gas pump is in the listed.
 
It is not possible to check fuel pressure by pressing the valve and seeing fuel.
A gauge has to be used at different engine power loads .
Neither does forcing the engine to run in open loop prove fuel pressure and flow correct.
I believe You, that's why I'm gonna chance whole petrol line. But "I'll be back" (feeling is kind of) as Arnold would says. 😉
 
Fuel pressure was not the cause. So I thought that the timing belt has jumped out of place. First, I tested the Haynes instruction, where the camshaft end is exactly horizontal, in which case it was 2 teeth wrong. The car was otherwise working normally, but a bit inefficient and jerky. Next in the other direction 2 teeth, same fault. One can't help but wonder that the car works quite normally even though the timing is wrong? And Autodata's advice on crankshaft timing can be thrown away. Use the zero point of the flywheel and the camshaft is 270° degrees. That's right. And the most annoying thing was that the knocking continued all the time, regardless of the settings is off totally. I've never come across anything like it. If the (engine with chain) chain tensioner is loose, the car won't even start. And that starts and has to be run.
 
I found something interesting and abnormal. Cylinder 4 is reason, but why? Injection nozzeles replaced, also spark plugs.
Only left is carbon in chamber and air leak somewhere close to cylinder 4 or nozzle o-ring... I'm totally out f this.
 

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I finally found the reason for the knocking. It was the VACUUM EVAP FUEL SOLENOID. Fascinating that someone like that can behave like that? I still don't know why it knocks... This is somekind of fuel tank breathing valve. But why it start knocking only under load, never idle or gas pedal up when driving. And knocking is worst when 1500rpm (starting about 1200rpm to 3000rpm) and sound following engine rpm. And ticking only when engine is warm. It sounds like faulty injectors or valve tapping. I just can get it... If disconnecting valve wires, EML light comes on but sound is gone.

Edit: I found this kind of information "The purge solenoid is pulse modulated by the ECU. It is normal for it to click during normal operation and it should only work when the engine is under power, not at idle."

This explain a lot for me. But rattling noise is mystery. Maybe the valve itself is faulty.
 

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Opel had an issue with their version of that valve becoming slightly noisy on several models.
 
Greetings.
In addition to the disappearance of the knock, did the problems with the poor mixture (white candles, twist) pass?
Hi Dimich! It's better now but not perfect. Lambda 1.025 and it's enough for MOT here in Finland. Spark plugs are brown. If You have suspicious with that valve just clogged valve hose and test what happens. Valve is damaged when car is moving and idle is about 1000rpm, it should be 850rpm and when car is parking 850rpm as should be. So valve leaking air then.
 
Привіт, Дімічу! Зараз краще, але не ідеально. Лямбда 1.025, і цього достатньо для техогляду тут, у Фінляндії. Свічки запалювання коричневі. Якщо у вас є підозри щодо цього клапана, просто засмітився шланг клапана, перевірте, що відбувається. Клапан пошкоджений, коли автомобіль рухається, а оберти на холостому ходу близько 1000 об/хв, має бути 850 об/хв, а коли автомобіль стоїть, 850 об/хв, як і повинно бути. Отже, клапан пропускає повітря.
З самого початку володіння цим автомобілем (Punto MK2b 1.2b 1.2 8V), не дуже рівні холості оберти, спостерігається підвищена вібрація в салоні, скручування при гальмуванні двигуна, високі оберти при запуску гарячого двигуна (1800 -2000 об/хв), які одразу знижуються до нормальних 750 об/хв.
 
З самого початку володіння цим автомобілем (Punto MK2b 1.2b 1.2 8V), не дуже рівні холості оберти, спостерігається підвищена вібрація в салоні, скручування при гальмуванні двигуна, високі оберти при запуску гарячого двигуна (1800 -2000 об/хв), які одразу знижуються до нормальних 750 об/хв.
Sounds You have air leak somewhere. I had same issue but fixed like THAT. Last post from me. You can try the these first. If not help, IAC valve is dirty or damaged. Last option is intake manifold gasgets.
 
Звучить так, ніби у вас десь витік повітря. У мене була така ж проблема, але її виправили ОСНОВНО . Останній пост від мене. Можете спочатку спробувати ці. Якщо не допоможе, клапан IAC брудний або пошкоджений. Останній варіант - газорозподільник впускного колектора.
Я також думав про витік повітря, зробив саморобний димогенератор і витоку не знайшов.
Я спробую заглушити клапан і подивлюся, чи щось зміниться.
Дякую за вашу пораду
е.
 
Mietin myös ilmavuotoa, tein itse savugeneraattorin enkä löytänyt vuotoa.
Kokeilen sulkea venttiilin ja katson, muuttuuko mikään.
Kiitos neuvoistasi.
on.
Easy way to test is throttle butterfly adjusment screw, its tiny tight screw near throttle wire. Open it little bit, step by step. Count rounds, so You can set it same position back, if not help. And if it not help, it is air leak somewhere. Or IAC valve issue.
 
Easy way to test is throttle butterfly adjusment screw, its tiny tight screw near throttle wire. Open it little bit, step by step. Count rounds, so You can set it same position back, if not help. And if it not help, it is air leak somewhere. Or IAC valve issue.
The idle regulator, sensor of the throttle position and the absolute pressure sensor changed, did not give anything.
The screw of the damper was not twisted and does not want to calibrate at the factory.
If you close the throttle with your hand, the engine stops immediately, the vacuum holds.
 
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