Technical Fiat Panda shaking while decelerating

Currently reading:
Technical Fiat Panda shaking while decelerating

Joined
Dec 4, 2022
Messages
9
Points
2
Location
Thessaly, GR Volos
Hi, I have a 2005 fiat panda 1.2 emotion. My family bought it brand new with all the bells and whistles. The car since new has 57.700 km ( so its a nugget). i love it to bits but it has a problem that i just wrap my head around.
When decelerating in second at around 1.500rpm it starts to shake. Also when you jab the throttle in the first four gears it kicks like it has not 60 but rather 600 horsepower. I changer the rear bushings of the front control arms but i did not notice any change. Any idea what could this be ?
 
Hi, I have a 2005 fiat panda 1.2 emotion. My family bought it brand new with all the bells and whistles. The car since new has 57.700 km ( so its a nugget). i love it to bits but it has a problem that i just wrap my head around.
When decelerating in second at around 1.500rpm it starts to shake. Also when you jab the throttle in the first four gears it kicks like it has not 60 but rather 600 horsepower. I changer the rear bushings of the front control arms but i did not notice any change. Any idea what could this be ?
If with it on a ramp in a workshop you cannot feel any other engine mounting or stabiliser bushes worn or broken, then I would check to see if it is a damaged /worn drive shaft joint.
If it is badly worn or when a new drive shaft boot was fitted it was misassembled that can cause the problem.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I'm really happy to see for my self that it is an active community, is there any chance it could be the transmission mounts too ?
Gearbox mount nearly always worse reversing up a gradient

Dog bone mount. Leave the handbrake firmly on. Inch forwards and backwards a bit while observing the engine
 
When decelerating in second at around 1.500rpm
I should read and digest more carefully

My cars in pieces at the moment so can’t test till tonight but Isn’t 1.5K rpm still quite fast a road speed to be struggling

Accelerating its not far from where I would be changing up to third if eco driving on a flat road
 
Could this be an engine a misfire? You might have an air leak in the inlet manifold or the exhaust near the catalytic converter. Also check the ignition coils.
If you can see all four exhaust manifold stubs at the cylinder head an IR thermometer can measure metal temperature. Start it from cold and measure them all as it warms up. A pair that are warming more slowly suggests an ignition problem. Obviously this won’t work on a hot engine as heat soon soaks across the whole exhaust manifold.
 
Could this be an engine a misfire? You might have an air leak in the inlet manifold or the exhaust near the catalytic converter. Also check the ignition coils.
If you can see all four exhaust manifold stubs at the cylinder head an IR thermometer can measure metal temperature. Start it from cold and measure them all as it warms up. A pair that are warming more slowly suggests an ignition problem. Obviously this won’t work on a hot engine as heat soon soaks across the whole exhaust manifold.
I don't think it's that. It seems like the nature of the problem is the engine suspension system. Today I was parking and I reversed a bit too quickly and it made a metallic clucking sound when I booted it. It feels like something has play in it, like bushes or the gearbox itself which is highly unlikely due to the low mileage. Unfortunately I haven't had the time to check any of your seggestions from above still, I'm so thankful for your help.
 
UPDATE: I have changed all the rubber mounts in he front suspension, let side engine mount (circular one) and the transmission mount because they were perished. The steering rack has a lot of play so its coming up next. The car though is still shaking but its less vibrant. Still when accelerating or decelerating the car seems to have free play in the transmission or somewhere in the running gear. Please help its driving me nuts and I am flirting with insanity 🤣
 
We did actually the mechanic said they were in perfect condition. He actually said they had he right amount of tolerances. Still i am starting to be suspicious about the ignition coil and mostly due to age. I think giving them plugs a refresh with some contact silicon spray would be a good idea. I tested that already on my uncle's grande punto with the 1.2 engine and it seemed to have worked brilliantly To be fair though i dont trust the mechanics in the area that much they are kinda weird in some ways and i like things in ways they dont agree due to the meticulous methods that i adore following
 
We did actually the mechanic said they were in perfect condition. He actually said they had he right amount of tolerances. Still i am starting to be suspicious about the ignition coil and mostly due to age. I think giving them plugs a refresh with some contact silicon spray would be a good idea. I tested that already on my uncle's grande punto with the 1.2 engine and it seemed to have worked brilliantly To be fair though i dont trust the mechanics in the area that much they are kinda weird in some ways and i like things in ways they dont agree due to the meticulous methods that i adore following
Trust your instincts;).
I would still jack up car and if safely on stands physically hold the drive shafts and check for excessive movement comparing the opposite side or a good one on your friends car.
If a CV boot has been changed or a drive shaft refitted at any time carelessly it is possibly for needle bearings to come out giving extra play in CV joint which makes it run eccentric giving vibration and snatch on acceleration or deacceleration.
 
The car has the factory parts because of the low mileage of 60.000 kms/ 37282 mls. Also can you be more specific as to what movement am I looking for (direction-wise) Unfortunately i dont have anyone who drives a panda so im in a pickle 😅
If you know for a fact that the drive shafts have never been worked on, or damaged in any way from brand new, then it is unlikely to be a problem.
However even if a rubber boot over a Constant Velocity joint has been changed or a suspension joint has been un done resulting in the drive shaft being pulled out a bit,or a clutch fitted, then that could have been the start of your problem .
What you are looking for is any unusual movement comparing one side with the other in a rotational direction any where between the gearbox/axle and the road wheel.
So with the wheel off the ground safely , I would hold the drive shaft and work the road wheel clockwise and anti clockwise looking for any slackness or free play that when on the road would allow movement when going on and off the accelerator.
Also when gentle revolving the road wheel any sign the drive shaft is turning out of "true" or eccentrically when compared with the other side.
Another sign could be when driving in a tight circle in a car park a "clattering" noise from behind the road wheel, do this test driving clockwise and anticlock with the steering turned all the way and held there as you pull away and drive around, it doesn't need to be fast. You could also see if snatch/jerking is worse in one direction or the other.
You have checked all the rubber mountings , though to me that would give you a clonk on accelerating and deaccelerating but not the shaking you also describe.
 
If you know for a fact that the drive shafts have never been worked on, or damaged in any way from brand new, then it is unlikely to be a problem.
However even if a rubber boot over a Constant Velocity joint has been changed or a suspension joint has been un done resulting in the drive shaft being pulled out a bit,or a clutch fitted, then that could have been the start of your problem .
What you are looking for is any unusual movement comparing one side with the other in a rotational direction any where between the gearbox/axle and the road wheel.
So with the wheel off the ground safely , I would hold the drive shaft and work the road wheel clockwise and anti clockwise looking for any slackness or free play that when on the road would allow movement when going on and off the accelerator.
Also when gentle revolving the road wheel any sign the drive shaft is turning out of "true" or eccentrically when compared with the other side.
Another sign could be when driving in a tight circle in a car park a "clattering" noise from behind the road wheel, do this test driving clockwise and anticlock with the steering turned all the way and held there as you pull away and drive around, it doesn't need to be fast. You could also see if snatch/jerking is worse in one direction or the other.
You have checked all the rubber mountings , though to me that would give you a clonk on accelerating and deaccelerating but not the shaking you also describe.
Thanks a lot it was extremely informative and helpful. I will keep you updated on my little adventures
 
Back
Top