Technical  FIAT PANDA CUTTING OUT

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Technical  FIAT PANDA CUTTING OUT

TeresaCraig

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Hi new to the forum. I have owned a Fiat Panda 4x4. 2008 plate for four years . It was fine before I went away for a few days but on return I started it up and it was a bit slow so I thought it was the battery but after getting it to start it was cutting out at junctions or when I went to stop it would not tick over . Put it in a garage abd after showing no error code the garage are baffled with it . Tried a number of things it could be but still not running ok . The engine management light was not on when it went in, but the mechanic has taken out the sensor for the air mass flow filter and the yellow management light is now on but he says it’s running better . However after taking it for a drive it us still cutting out at junctions literally dying out and no power in third going up hills . I love this car and at a loss what to do
 
try a different battery before doing anything else. Working before it was layed up for a few day. Doesn't matter that the alternator pumping out 14V some faulty batteries cause the engine to cut out at junctions. Nobody got the bottom of battery issues on the Panda its the same with the faulty steering the only 100% way it eliminate it is substation for a known Good one

engine light on with a sensor unplugged is normal

I guess its a diesel
 
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try a different battery before doing anything else. Working before it was layed up for a few day. Doesn't matter that the alternator pumping out 14V some faulty batteries cause the engine to cut out at junctions. Nobody got the bottom of battery issues on the Panda its the same with the faulty steering the only 100% way it eliminate it is substation for a known Good one

engine light on with a sensor unplugged is normal

I guess its a diesel
No it’s petrol . The battery is new. It’s just dying at junctions and no power going uphill . I’ve been told it could be a MAF sensor and or the throttle body . It was fine before holiday but came back to this 😦
 
No it’s petrol . The battery is new. It’s just dying at junctions and no power going uphill . I’ve been told it could be a MAF sensor and or the throttle body . It was fine before holiday but came back to this 😦
the 1.2 doesn't idle well with a duff battery. I normally swap batteries out of my other car before going any further

petrol doesn't have a MAF

take the airbox off and look at the top off the throttle body, Is it full of gunk, post a picture.

remove the spark plug lead from left most cylinder, Looking from the front of the car. Start the car for a few seconds does it sound the same or worse.

coolant level Good
 
has taken out the sensor for the air mass flow filter and the yellow management light is now on but he says it’s running better .
doesn't make sense. Here in the UK the 1.2 petrol doesn't have a MAF
they have a MAP that measures manifold pressure and ambient temperature

Disconnect they will stall at junctions and be difficult to start.

They dont normally fail but can give dodgy readings if the end is covered in oil. A quick clean with brake cleaner is normally all thats needed.
 
A "mechanic" that removes or disconnects a vehicle part causing the engine management light to come on and returning car to you in that condition is NOT doing a proper job or helping you.

Has the battery been replaced since the problem started ?
 
I'm going to suggest the cracked alternator theory, because these were the symptoms my 1200 motorbike had when the alternator was seizing up. It had the same type of Denso alternator which is prone to corroded winding cores that eventually seized the rotor. My Panda alternator had the same cracked casing. It was working fine when removed but seized solid with a week of removal from the car. I caught it just in time.

You "can" remove the auxiliary belt and check the alternator spins, but it's easier to look for cracks in the casing. Jack up and support the car. Get underneath and use a flashlight & mirror. New alternators, compete with pulley, cost about £80 to £100.
 
A "mechanic" that removes or disconnects a vehicle part causing the engine management light to come on and returning car to you in that condition is NOT doing a proper job or helping you.

Has the battery been replaced since the problem started ?
Correct

its quick and dirty way to eliminate a sensor thats messing up the fuelling as a way to get you home. Sometimes the only way if you have no tools / scanner

But a garage should read the data before disconnecting it. Otherwise if it was a dirty connector, faulty wiring or just coincidence that it runs better could remain unknown

the MAP is fairly reliable and normally its the combined ambient temperature reading that jumps all over the place messing with the fuelling. And sorts its self out temporary after a run at higher revs

These cars don't run well with the MAP disconnected. Its the only fuelling 05 1.2 ran rich with poor performance but not too bad. 1.1 06 would start very well and you had to keep some throttle all the time otherwise it cut out. May have these the wrong way round it was a few years ago.
 
the 1.2 doesn't idle well with a duff battery. I normally swap batteries out of my other car before going any further

petrol doesn't have a MAF

take the airbox off and look at the top off the throttle body, Is it full of gunk, post a picture.

remove the spark plug lead from left most cylinder, Looking from the front of the car. Start the car for a few seconds does it sound the same or worse.

coolant level Good
Can you post a pic of throttle body please
 

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Found throttle body tge pioe is cracked both ends
doesn't make sense. Here in the UK the 1.2 petrol doesn't have a MAF
they have a MAP that measures manifold pressure and ambient temperature

Disconnect they will stall at junctions and be difficult to start.

They dont normally fail but can give dodgy readings if the end is covered in oil. A quick clean with brake cleaner is normally all thats needed.
 

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Wrap the cracks with self amalgamating tape and see if the problems improve. It's only a temporary fix but should keep it going until new parts arrive. However if this is the breather pipe that goes from engine top to bottom of air cleaner case, you wont find much difference. It has no effect on air flow after the throttle valve.
 
Wrap the cracks with self amalgamating tape and see if the problems improve. It's only a temporary fix but should keep it going until new parts arrive. However if this is the breather pipe that goes from engine top to bottom of air cleaner case, you wont find much difference. It has no effect on air flow after the throttle valve.
 
Cleaned the throttle body wrapped pipe with tape . Charged battery up . We’ve disconnected throttle sensor and it ticks over. When we put sensor back on cuts out 😱
 
cheers for the photos. Look like its pretty clean

any pipe thats above the throttle body thats letting in air will not effect the running at all

in fact both the 1.1 and 1.2 run fine with the airbox removed.

if you listen to the exhaust pipe at the back can you hear any slight miss
 
cheers for the photos. Look like its pretty clean

any pipe thats above the throttle body thats letting in air will not effect the running at all

in fact both the 1.1 and 1.2 run fine with the airbox removed.

if you listen to the exhaust pipe at the back can you hear any slight miss
The mechanic did suggest blocked exhaust . Can there be anything structurally wrong with the throttle body as it looks ok and flap working from t looks basic . If it ticks over fine with the throttle sensor taken off could it be the sensor . We will go back out and try the exhaust . It’s exhausting us lol
 
The mechanic did suggest blocked exhaust . Can there be anything structurally wrong with the throttle body as it looks ok and flap working from t looks basic . If it ticks over fine with the throttle sensor taken off could it be the sensor . We will go back out and try the exhaust . It’s exhausting us lol
Unlikely

It’s quick to eliminate. Just unscrew the o2 sensor. easier on a hot engine
 
I’d start by unplugging the spark leads one at a time

If it sounds worse it was firing fine on that cylinder

If it sounds the same that cylinder wasn’t firing correctly

Don’t run them too long like this as it’s dumping neat fuel 1 minute is fine
 
The mechanic did suggest blocked exhaust . Can there be anything structurally wrong with the throttle body as it looks ok and flap working from t looks basic . If it ticks over fine with the throttle sensor taken off could it be the sensor . We will go back out and try the exhaust . It’s exhausting us lol
Yes they go faulty

Normally the sensors

Normally throw a code

Normally after they have been incorrectly cleaned, following a YouTube video
 
check, there should be an air gap here, photo two is mine held up to the light. Its not that obvious from the top
 

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