Technical Fiat Idea 1.4 16v Dualogic error p1810

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Technical Fiat Idea 1.4 16v Dualogic error p1810

mcloud

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Hello there,

Two weeks ago my wife stranded on her way home with her fiat idea.
It gave an gearbox error and would not go from neutral.
We towed it to our local garage, they concludee the selespeed oil needed topping up and the clutch bearing was shot. The clutch and bearing were replaced and new regular oil, filter and gearbox oil and selespeed oil was topped up. Multiecuscan was used to bleed the clutch but the end of line service would not start. It stays on the please wait screen. Tried version 4.3 and 3.9

The car now shifts when the engine is off but when running the car stalls. With the wheels from the ground the wheels turn, so it seems to be a clutch related problem. Most of the time no error pops up, but after a few tries error p1810 pops up. Does anyone know that error and what we can do to fix it?
 
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mcloud

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I will attach the screenshots i took.
 

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Hard to be certain from a distance, but I think it may be a leaking clutch actuator.
If it can't hold pressure it throws a p1810 as the clutch position is not as expected.
However, it could also possibly be a number of other things.

Did you run the clutch calibration procedure?

What is the clutch wear index showing?

Theoretically, it could be that the clutch is faulty, or there is a gearbox input shaft problem.

Try observing the hydraulic pressure using MES.
How many gearchanges between pump operation?

How low was the Selespeed fluid? Any loss of fluid means a leak somewhere.
 
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mcloud

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Hello, thank you for your response, we will work on the car again tomorrow.


When we open the door, the pump activates for 9- 10 seconds.
When shifting every 2 or 3 shifts it turns on again.


i believe when i try the clutch calibration it mentions that i need to drive the car for 300 meters. which is not possible when it fails to shift with engine on.


The Clutch index wear is at 2000, after we replaced the clutch we deleted all errors and statistics to get a fresh start.


The selespeed fluidbox was at 10% so there was a leak. When we replaced the clutch we checked for leakage and there was 1 sensor where fluid had leaked from, we replaced the seal and cleaned and tested the sensor. it was the sensor (potentiometer) on the front of the unit with a rod attached, i believe it is called the selection sensor. After rebuilding there was no leakage thus far.
When we test the pump through multiecuscan the pressure rises to 80 BAR (no leakage still found)


I will get back tomorrow when i know more.
 
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mcloud

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Unfortunately i got sick, zo we did not get to work on the car.
This weekend we will work on it some more.
I will get back here if i know more.
 
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mcloud

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We finally got the car driving again.

When we replaced the clutch we also removed the clutch arm, the one that moves the clutch bearing. We took that arm off again and put it back one notch further clockwise and everyting works like a charm now.

The car drives perfectly now without hickups or any problems.

Thanks for thinking with us on this head breaking problem.
 

whit05

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Feb 9, 2019
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I’m having this same issue with my 500! Fault code p1810, definitely something wrong with the clutch and car stuck in reverse so can’t get it towed. Struggling to find someone mobile to come look at it. Frustrating
 
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This one was a mainly a fairly specific issue following a clutch replacement, after the clutch had pretty much worn out.
Assuming that you haven't just had a replacement clutch, start with confirming there isn't a leak.
If no leak, then check the pump motor is operating as expected.
Then, as above, could be failing clutch actuator, failed clutch, or a problem with some part of the clutch mechanism.
Or the error code could be completely bogus, thrown by the ECU getting a bad reading caused by battery or wiring problem.
 

whit05

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Or the error code could be completely bogus, thrown by the ECU getting a bad reading caused by battery or wiring problem.

Connected car to multiecuscan and battery voltage is showing as only 11.4v. Which is worrying as it’s a new battery that was just put in. Could that be the problem?
 

whit05

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Update: Car needs a new clutch. Mechanic told me he’s never seen a Fiat needing a new clutch at “such low mileage” (39k) so recommended I also pay him for a new gearbox actuator... At the small price of £2000! Ha, no thanks
 
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The early clutch failure could well be driving style... for example, many users treat it like a conventional automatic, trickling along in traffic at just above tickover. Trouble is, unless you know how to do it right, it is just the same as slipping the clutch to maintain a slow speed. Result is worn out clutch.
Still, it's cheaper than a new actuator.
 

Mad one

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The early clutch failure could well be driving style... for example, many users treat it like a conventional automatic, trickling along in traffic at just above tickover. Trouble is, unless you know how to do it right, it is just the same as slipping the clutch to maintain a slow speed. Result is worn out clutch.
Still, it's cheaper than a new actuator.

Hi IRC,

It’s kinda slightly difficult not to “trickle along in slow traffic” with that setup, how else are you meant to do it? Apart from stopping, waiting until there is a gap opening up and the driving forward into it? Always presuming somebody haven’t crossed lanes etc, and filled in that space??
 
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You can trickle, but you have to trickle fast enough for the clutch to not be slipping.
It's not hard to manage once you've got the hang of it, but it's not as seamless as a conventional automatic box. You tend to let the gap grow a bit bigger than usual and use just enough throttle to get 1st gear with no clutch slip.
Dab the brake to get it to "press" the clutch when you need to slow down, and it'll coast to a halt (with practice - don't hit the car in front while practicing).
Hard to describe, but easier once you've practiced a bit.
If you don't press the accelerator enough to get it to fully engage the clutch, it will slip the clutch and eventually fry your clutch plate.
 

Mad one

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You can trickle, but you have to trickle fast enough for the clutch to not be slipping.
It's not hard to manage once you've got the hang of it, but it's not as seamless as a conventional automatic box. You tend to let the gap grow a bit bigger than usual and use just enough throttle to get 1st gear with no clutch slip.
Dab the brake to get it to "press" the clutch when you need to slow down, and it'll coast to a halt (with practice - don't hit the car in front while practicing).
Hard to describe, but easier once you've practiced a bit.
If you don't press the accelerator enough to get it to fully engage the clutch, it will slip the clutch and eventually fry your clutch plate.



Must be getting it right then, got the Qubo at 11k some 5 1/2 years ago and just clicked over 81k, with no noticeable clutch problems....that it’s....ive jinxed it[emoji12]
 
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Best I've seen so far is 155k miles on original clutch. Probably still had some miles left it it but accident damage got it scrapped. Was going to buy it to play with, but had a couple of days in hospital and missed it.
Got a 500 breaker with 136k on it to play with instead when summer is here to stay. (Many thanks to typecastboy)
Mine just ticked over 100k, and still going OK on original clutch (did have a new pump motor at about 85k coz it was getting sticky in hot weather)
So... they can do good mileage.
 
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