Technical Fiat ducato 1999 immobiliser

[Geoffapp]

Hi folks, I'm new to this forum and I have the same problem - 2.8 idtd Ducato motorhome turns over but won't start and the key code light stays on. You've given me a glimmer of hope that all is not lost. It's been suggested to me that the ECU can be reprogrammed to bypass the code. Do you think this would work and therefore save any issues with the tamperproof screws? Also, can anyone advise me on the location of the ECU itself please?

 

[Communicator]

Hi folks, I'm new to this forum and I have the same problem - 2.8 idtd Ducato motorhome turns over but won't start and the key code light stays on. You've given me a glimmer of hope that all is not lost. It's been suggested to me that the ECU can be reprogrammed to bypass the code. Do you think this would work and therefore save any issues with the tamperproof screws? Also, can anyone advise me on the location of the ECU itself please?

Hi Geoff,
Welcome to the forum. Your informant has advised you incorrectly. The 2.8idTD has mechanically controlled injection, and no ECU to control the injection. You may be ably to effect a cure by cleaning and reseating the connections to the code receiver. Otherwise removal of the immobiliser is the generally accepted course of action.

 

[Jonjones115]

Hi folks, I'm new to this forum and I have the same problem - 2.8 idtd Ducato motorhome turns over but won't start and the key code light stays on. You've given me a glimmer of hope that all is not lost. It's been suggested to me that the ECU can be reprogrammed to bypass the code. Do you think this would work and therefore save any issues with the tamperproof screws? Also, can anyone advise me on the location of the ECU itself please?

Hope this helps, if you need anymore information just let me know, personally when I opened my fuel pump immobiliser up, I found that it was burnt on the inside and had no hope of being reprogrammed, if calling an auto locksmith out is gonna a come at a cost, I would definitely consider just removing it, the fear of doing it is bigger than doing the job to be honest

 

[Geoffapp]

Many thanks for your prompt responses. The advice is much appreciated. I'll have a go at it as soon as possible and hopefully get the old girl back on the road.

 

[Geoffapp]

Hi again folks, I've started to attempt the immobiliser by-pass but am reluctant to do any uneccessary damage in the process. Could you confirm please that the black plastic box shown in the attached photo is the bit that I should break off? I've already removed a plastic cover from the end of this. Also have you any advice on how to remove the anti-tamper screws once I get to them?

 

[varesecrazy]

Fixed now, thanks for the help, it was the immobiliser on the fuel pump causing the problem.

I am surprised it stopped the motor cranking?

 

[Geoffapp]

Hope this helps, if you need anymore information just let me know, personally when I opened my fuel pump immobiliser up, I found that it was burnt on the inside and had no hope of being reprogrammed, if calling an auto locksmith out is gonna a come at a cost, I would definitely consider just removing it, the fear of doing it is bigger than doing the job to be honest

Hi Jon, Could you confirm please that the black plastic box shown in the attached photo is the bit that I should break off? I've already removed a plastic cover from the end of this. Is a Dremel the best way to get rid of the tamper proof screws once I get to them?

 

[Jonjones115]

Hi Jon, Could you confirm please that the black plastic box shown in the attached photo is the bit that I should break off? I've already removed a plastic cover from the end of this. Is a Dremel the best way to get rid of the tamper proof screws once I get to them?

Sorry for late response only just seen this, yes that is the one, and one of them 3 wires coming out of it was a ignition live which you can use to power the solenoid once you expose it, hope this helps

 

[Jonjones115]

I am surprised it stopped the motor cranking?

It was cranking with all the power in the world, it just wouldn't start due to the solenoid not activing

 

[Jonjones115]

Hi again folks, I've started to attempt the immobiliser by-pass but am reluctant to do any uneccessary damage in the process. Could you confirm please that the black plastic box shown in the attached photo is the bit that I should break off? I've already removed a plastic cover from the end of this. Also have you any advice on how to remove the anti-tamper screws once I get to them?

I managed to get a multi-tool on them and they just vibrated undone

 

[Geoffapp]

I managed to get a multi-tool on them and they just vibrated undone

Thanks for the clarification. I didn't actually go in deep enough to have to remove the tamper-proof screws. Using a Dremel with a circular cutter and pliers, I very carefully cut and broke the outer cap off the black box without damaging the wires. This revealed a circuit board which I prised loose. In the top left corner of this is the wire which leads to the fuel solenoid. This was confirmed by touching a wire from the live feed to it and hearing the solenoid click. The circuit board is obviously redundant now so I gradually nibbled most of it away until just the area around the solenoid wire remained. I then soldered a new wire to the blob of solder for the solenoid wire and a permanent connection was made to the ignition-dependant live feed. Under the circuit board was mess of silicone type material so I scraped all of this out and cleaned the whole area with a small paint brush and aerosol brake cleaner. As the live feed to the solenoid would be exposed and subject to vibration, I gradually built up layers of JB Weld Quick packed into the original housing to create a solid support for the wire.

The engine fired up on the first turn of the key, putting to an end weeks of worry, so many thanks to all who contributed to this subject.

 

[Riviera]

I have the same problem but in my case the key light on dashboard doesn’t come on at all.

Can you advise?

 

[Communicator]

I have the same problem but in my case the key light on dashboard doesn’t come on at all.

Can you advise?

Given the age of the vehicle, an immobiliser fault is possible, but have you considered other possibilities such as an air leak on the tank side of the injection pump?

 

[Riviera]

Given the age of the vehicle, an immobiliser fault is possible, but have you considered other possibilities such as an air leak on the tank side of the injection pump?

I actually found out that the fuse developed some patina. I wiggled the fuses and now it works.

 

[Communicator]

I actually found out that the fuse developed some patina. I wiggled the fuses and now it works.

I am quite old by many standards, and worked with relay and electronic circuits in demanding applications. I relaatively recently became an advocate for contact cleaner when I fixed my x244 key code problems by applying to the code receiver connections. Perhaps worth doing to yours.