Technical Failed TA wastegate solenoid

[dragonwagon]

My TA just lost power and the EML and battery light lit up. Plugged in the code reader and came up with the failed wastegate solenoid. Can't quite make the link between that tnd the battery light. Any ideas folks?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Engine still runs though? If so start it up and put a multimeter across the battery terminals to see if it's charging (looking for 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running just a wee bit above idle). If it's doing that I'd sort out the wastegate problem first and see if the battery light goes away. Battery lights usually come on with engine running because the charging system is not charging the battery - can't really think why the wastegate failure should do this unless it's managed to blow a fuse somewhere?

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Bear in mind a solenoid might misbehave if the voltage drops too low to operate it properly... so that code may be a red herring. Fault codes can be useful, but can also (often) lead to a wild goose chase as they are not infallible, and in many cases really only a 'best guess' from the computer as to what actually went wrong.

 

[dragonwagon]

I'm increasingly suspicious of the alternator - voltage is within limits but fluctuating wildly. Are these internally regulated or regulated via the engine ECU / PCM as in Jeeps? With 95k on the clock the alternator probably needs an overhaul.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

At risk of sounding like a broken record, what state is the battery in? If battery is old or chemically worn out, it’s ability to take and hold charge will be affected. That will have an effect on what the alternator thinks it needs to be delivering to charge it. If over 3 or 4 years old, replacing that is a good start ( check Tanya batteries - best price by far)

 

[dragonwagon]

Problem has been found - totally fried alternator which is not entirely unreasonable at 95k miles. Replacement cost £168 without fitting. Battery is pretty fresh but as for Tayna (despite being located in Wales) I would never deal with them again. Ever. Absolutely diabolical service - misled on delivery times, battery not sent, no word of apology and arguments over a refund.

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Good to know it's sorted. And I think justifies my comment about 'don't believe the fault codes'... most garages these days seem not to know how to find a fault by any other means, and you as the customer end up paying handsomely. So many sensors give false readings if voltage is not perfect.

 

[Panda IIs]

Good to know it's sorted. And I think justifies my comment about 'don't believe the fault codes'... most garages these days seem not to know how to find a fault by any other means, and you as the customer end up paying handsomely. So many sensors give false readings if voltage is not perfect.

Have to agree; when the TA 4x4 battery got a bit flaky all sorts of dash lights came and went (hill-hold unavailable, stop start - but that's always the case i know, 4x4 unavailable etc) all of these functions require electrical intervention so the evidence suggests that if there's not a comfortable number of volts available it all gets shut down. This may just be a lot of short drives in the winter with everything turned on.

I had an alternator failure on a Golf 4 on a longish road trip recently. The red battery charge light came on briefly and disappeared so I carried on driving, as the battery became increasingly depleted so various warning lights came on, ABS, seat belt tensioners, airbags and then finally "alternator visit workshop" at which point it had totally expired...

Essentially everything is (electrical) power dependent.