Technical fabricating a curved flange for Panda Colour

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Technical fabricating a curved flange for Panda Colour

Now I can upload the pictures.
It is a bit like that old wartime film about submarines....
What Lies Beneath.
Rust beneath rust!
Plan now is to remove the seat adjuster and cut out all the inner sill rot.
Then make a new inner sill , repair the hole in the floor and connect sill back up.
Then move on the cross member!
 

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Mm a bit of rust that will keep u busy this weekend
 
Tip here don't cut the floor back so far grind back the vertical part of the floor bend say 11 o'clock until the edge of the inner sill can be grabbed by mole grips then pull the inner and floor pan together weld along that length repeat stretch grip and repeat the wonky edge should then be ground straight then re welded. Until a good joint is created Then use some 1 mm or 1.5 mm sheet create the vertical section. To be then rejoined to the sill edge
 
Tip here don't cut the floor back so far grind back the vertical part of the floor bend say 11 o'clock until the edge of the inner sill can be grabbed by mole grips then pull the inner and floor pan together weld along that length repeat stretch grip and repeat the wonky edge should then be ground straight then re welded. Until a good joint is created Then use some 1 mm or 1.5 mm sheet create the vertical section. To be then rejoined to the sill edge

I think I get what you mean there. Thanks.
I only cut back as far as I had to to get to solid steel.
I will get the seat adjuster out of the way this weekend and then I can see what the inner sill is like underneath it.
 
I have drilled out the spot welds on the top of the seat adjuster, but I can't get my drill in to the gap between the floor and the bottom of the seat adjuster to get to the bottom set of spot welds (blue arrows on the picture).
I am using a spot weld cutter and it is not long enough to reach before the drill chuck gets in the way.
Is there an easy solution here that I am not seeing?
All advice gratefully received :)
 

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Mm any long series drill will do Just drill right through then free off the top section
Shake rattle and pull chisel ect. Use an old sharp wood chisel to cut through them best of luck
 
Well the seat adjuster came out no problem, which will allow me to deal with the inner sill in that area.
But I am thinking I should have had a closer look at the rear sill areas first.
Where the trailing arms mount to the inner sill.
I am beginning to wonder if this is worth it!
Does anybody have pictures of how this area should look on a "clean" car?
Mine seem different each side but because of previous repairs etc I am not sure how it should look.
Any help would be great. Thanks.
 

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I found this picture of Chris's Panda colour (same as mine) with the rear suspension out of the way.
Can anybody tell me is there something missing joining the two pieces together (where my red arrow is) or is there supposed to be a gap?
Thanks.
 

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If I remember panda basil 2wd had a void at that point almost as shown but perforated further in. I made small channel piece to fill the void both sides then fully welded both in place. A little bodge but strong. Hammer test Mot pass not visible. Or really notice sable if no voids or holes can be found it’s then deemed to be sound. Obviously you must be happy with the result and the repair should be undoubtably stronger sj
 
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