Technical Exhaust replacement

[DTanner]

I had an advisory last year on the exhaust silencer (many layers corroded). I have the MOT at the end of the month so was considering replacing the back section.

I found one on Eurocarparts and am considering changing it.

I don't have many tools (just basic handtools and axle stands and am not sure if I can do this. Will it be unreasonably difficult to separate the old silencer (see images below) without using angle grinders and cutters? Is Plusgas penetrating lubricant and elbow grease likely to be enough to separate the silencer from the rest of the exhaust?

Some of the exhaust mounting brackets also look in bad shape so may I will have to be careful not to damage these.

 

[jimboy]

Personally, I would take it to an exhaust fitter & let them deal with it. Far safer than scrambling under the vehicle trying to remove the old rusted effort. It's not a difficult job but it can be dangerous & if you have limited tools as you say well you're stuck with a rusty old zorst half off & who knows what!

By the looks of the photos the whole thing needs replacing. Just my thoughts.

 

[Goudrons]

The joint between silencer and centre pipe can be a fecker to seperate.

I've done two and both were stuck solid.
Each time I've had to peel back the outer sleeve, on the silencer pipe with the split in it, to get them free.

I just levered up the corners on the split and worked it back and forth, it eventually peeled back enough to loosen it's grip on the centre pipe, but it's hard work.

Be careful of Eurocarparts, I bought a cheap "React" silencer and it bunged up the engine.
It just didn't pass the gas and made the car run all splutterly.

I think the second one I did was a Klarius and that was ok for a pattern part.

 

[DaveMcT]

Exhaust fitters get better prices on the parts and have the tools to quickly do the job. As with tyres DIY fitting is just not worth the effort.

 

[martroy]

The original Fiat silencer is double skinned and looks a mess within a couple of years but never seems to get much worse, with the engine running, just put your hand over the tailpipe , can you see or hear any leaks ? If not, don't worry about.

 

[DTanner]

I had a quick play with the exhaust system to see if I needed a fitter or not. I played (penetrating lubricant and hammer) with the joint between the silencer and long exhaust link and no give. Then I played with the link to cat joint and it moved on the second hit and the joint separated by 5 mm or so (you can see the halo of the joint move in the attached image).

I tightened it all back up and have decided to try and replace the link and silencer myself (i.e., exhaust link from cat to silencer and silencer). As said before the silencer is likely to be fine until all layers are worn through but it interests me to replace this and it is not in great shape after 7 years. I plan to do this on a quiet weekend towards the end of the month. I will borrow an angle grinder in case of emergency.

I found a cheap kit (I know) on eBay and will try and fit this. It includes the link, silencer, clips and rubber hangers.

Will let you know how it goes.

 

[SB1500]

That kit looks good. Too good?! Is quality okay?

We discovered that my exhaust has a WELDED PIPE where it should have a flex joint... :-(

 

[tonyn]

In my experience, and viewing the pictures of your system, you would be better off replacing the whole thing from the cat joint backwards.
Struggling to seperate the backbox from the centre pipe while laying on your back is a proper pain in the backside, believe me.
Again, from experience, once you have fitted a new backbox, any weakness in the rest of the old system usually appears shorlty afterwards elsewhere in the older parts left on.
Borrow that grinder and once you have released the front pipe from the cat chop it at a point where you can easily remove the old system.
The kit you are looking at on ebay seems ok. but you may be better just buying the centre pipe and a back box, only for the simple reason that you will only have 2 joints to cope with.
Dry fit it, line everthing up and then mark the allignment of both joints with a marker pen, before reassembly with paste.


Hope this helps.
Tonyn

 

[tonyn]

DTanner,
Hope this helps, clickcarparts on ebay are doing the following,
a centre pipe, £30.17, (same one europarts are selling for £46.99) item no.190859101194,and back box, £26.57,item no.310692495018.
2 x 48mm clamps, 99p each, free p+p, ebay item no.39151263031
Are the old hanging rubbers re-usable?


Any good?

 

[portland_bill]

When under the car working with the exhaust, wear eye protection. It is uncomfortable and inconvenient, but very necessary. There will be tiny bits of rust falling off, and one in an eye will be painful, may require a trip to A&E, or could be much worse.

Been there - done that!

 

[DaveMcT]

Ive had bits in my eye from under the car when I was wearing full goggles. Take it to an exhaust supplier who can do the job safely.

 

[Cooler King]

I have done mine, wasn't too bad, used an angle grinder to get rid of the old rusty bits and just took my time with the joint, spreading it apart first before hammering it off. I got non fiat replacements and they do not fit as well as the old pipes. The back box hangs a bit lower and I would probably fork out the extra for an original part if there is a next time. Get the car up on four axle stands but don't take any risks. If in doubt get a professional job done.

 

[jimboy]

There are at times like this I really would recommend taking the car to an exhaust fitter. The very fact that the OP has asked questions & you've admitted to have little tools & limited knowledge of the job at hand. As I've said, & others, it's not really a difficult job, but throws up all sorts of safety issues.

I certainly don't want to put the fear of death into you, but just some months ago two men were crushed to death under cars up here on separate instances. One chap was a keen DIY er & had been doing this sort of thing for many a year, so he was well aware of the dangers.

 

[jrkitching]

used an angle grinder to get rid of the old rusty bits

You can do a lot of damage with an angle grinder. Fine if you know what you are doing, but a hacksaw is a much safer, though slower, way of cutting through the old pipe and is easier than you might think; depending on the state of corrosion, you may find it takes almost no time at all.

There are at times like this I really would recommend taking the car to an exhaust fitter.

It's one of those jobs that's so much easier with a decent four post lift and a welding torch (to cut off the old one).

Every time I do one at home, I say to myself 'never again' - and then the next time I end up under the car with the spanners!

Are the old hanging rubbers re-usable?

Not a good idea - if one fails, you'll likely ruin at least the exhaust, to say nothing of the potential damage it could do to a following car.

These are best replaced whenever the exhaust is changed, and should be checked at least every service.

 

[FASTMOGGY]

I had an advisory last year on the exhaust silencer (many layers corroded). I have the MOT at the end of the month so was considering replacing the back section.

I found one on Eurocarparts and am considering changing it.

I don't have many tools (just basic handtools and axle stands and am not sure if I can do this. Will it be unreasonably difficult to separate the old silencer (see images below) without using angle grinders and cutters? Is Plusgas penetrating lubricant and elbow grease likely to be enough to separate the silencer from the rest of the exhaust?

Some of the exhaust mounting brackets also look in bad shape so may I will have to be careful not to damage these.

The long pipe and the silencer aren't overly expensive from euro parts so might be worth replacing both parts. I had mine fitted at ATS which cost £148 . My advisory was 'exhaust corroded' which featured on no less than 4 old mot's so...............looks bad but if it's not blowing then you might want to leave it until it goes, unless of course your at that stage already.

 

[Louie Bee]

Save your cash. Check out mine with no outer skin. original zorst not leaking on my sporting panda at 140k.

 

[irc]

Same on our Sporting. Original exhaust, almost no outer skin underneath but hasn't got noticeably worse. Will change when it starts to blow.

 

[DTanner]

All,

My update on this. I fitted the exhaust system I provided in the link above.
Some points in response to comments made for the benefit of anyone who may try this, as it is dangerous so please be careful:
- I raised one side of the car (1 trolley jack and 1 axle stand at the front and same at the back - I borrowed from a fellow DIYer). In working under the car make sure the car is well supported
- Please use a mask and enclosed eyewear as raining fragments of rusty mild steel are dangerous, also use rugged gloves for handling
- I used a cutter to cut off the silencer to aid the removal of the old exhaust
- The exhaust did not need to be replaced, I just wanted to do it. My local garage advised (as mentioned above) that exhausts are like onions and can lose many layers before it is a problem. Mine looked bad but would likely have been fine for some years

Having said all of this I replaced it and am happy with the results. The exhaust system was delivered for ~£54 and fitted like a glove. Time will tell if this was a good investment but I would be happy to get 5 years out of it.

My general steps were:
- layout new exhaust under car to check it would fit
- remove old exhaust (cut off silencer and separate joint at CAT)
- hang new exhaust system and check alignment
- slightly separate each joint in turn and apply a little cement to male sides of joints (well back from edge). Fully remake joint and add and tighten clip.

It is easier to connect the silencer to the exhaust link before hanging the silencer (I went the other way round and it was more effort). The job took me around 2 hours so happy with that. I have attached some images below (note I added a lot of cement around the joints after everything was finished, but this is pointless as it will peel off when dry).

 

[dozer]

You've saved yourself a few bob by fitting it yourself. I've just had one fitted for £134. I could of got one fitted for £90 but I couldn't finish work and be there in time so convenience won over price. One thing I have noticed on my 2 pandas that I've owned is the back boxes side nearest to the n/s tyre goes first and like you mentioned peels away many layers over time so I've painted the whole back box with black hammerite. It never burned off bumbles back box and so far it's the same on my present panda.

 

[DaveMcT]

Fit the new system with new mounting rubbers and all clips loose. Be sure its all correct before tightening anything. If you use sealing paste you will need to take it apart to apply paste. Mark the joints with permanent pen cross so you can see where the tube end should stop and it's rotation is as intended.

Hope that makes sense.