Hi. I had a cracked manifold and found it was split in four places. Amazon and Ebay sell a new one for £138 from Germany, however it shows it doesnt fit all models however mine is the type that has a Cat bolted to the bottom and cannot see why it does not fit my 2004. Anyway I spoke to a local chap who can fix anything and he said he'd have a go at my manifold. I thought I would give a instruction of how to remove.
TOOLS/PARTS REQUIRED
8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm sockets I used 1/4 ans 3/8 drive with long extension bar
12mm and 13mm deep sockets I used 1/4 with extension bar
10mm, 13mm, 15mm ring spanners
TORX bits
7mm socket for optional jubilee clip refitting
Torque wrench/breaker bar fro leverage on bolts
Plus as/WD40/Super TT penetrating spray
Manifold gasket, and CAT gasket (copper)
Exhaust fitting compound/putty
Various size jubilee clips for the hoseclips
A few assorted 8mm 8.8 grade bolts (8x25mm, 8x30mm, 8x35mm8x40mm) for snappage purposes.
A couple of 5 or 6mm 25mm long bolts and nuts for refitting the front 'Multipla embossed' airbox if they snap off.
I had the car up on ramps for easy access underneath, however this became a bit of a stretch when working in parts of the engine bay.
I assume you will know to disconnect the battery for safety (I didn't
)
First undo the Black air intake on the top of the engine, I threw away all the metal clips for the various water/air pipes and used jubilee clips for the refit, caution, there is a small breather pipe that connects to the back which is very fragile, the pipe may have fell apart anyway I replaced with a 3mm int silicone hose. Careful not to lose the shims for the black box where it bolts (13mm) to the top of the engine, leave the 'box' in situ for time being.
Remove the metal 'Multipla' air intake, the retaining bolts are probably seized and will break, I drilled through a new hole on the bracket and used a nut and bolt for refit.
Undo the oil dip stick and breather pipe bolts and hose clip and move out of the way slightly, then remove the airbox from the throttle body again I replaced the big clip with a large jubilee. Remove the HT leads from the spark plug end and move to the void where the air box was.
Using a torx bit, remove the air intake from the intake manifold, I then unplugged the electrical connectors and moved the air intake to the top left of the engine bay but
did not remove the blue pipes as there was no need. I also undid the connections for the 2 lambda sensors and removed the wiring from the clips and retained them to the manifold/CAT
Although my car has not got one, there should be a heat shield covering the exhaust, no doubt the bolts will break when you remove them
You can now see access to the manifold studs and exhaust/CAT bolts.
First remove the plastic cover on the water pump to the top left of the engine bay, there is one exposed screw but 2 hidden ones at each end of the cover, I found it difficult to get to these, so ended up snapping the cover off
Undo the belt tensioner bolt which is a bolt with a nut on and wind back fully. Then undo the bolt holding the water pump in position, there is a metal plate which slides out which I took a photo of to note the position. The pump can then be moved and the belt taken off and then access to all the manifold studs can be made. It's a good idea here to use a good penetrating spray such as Plus Gas to liberally spray the manifold to CAT bolts and manifold nuts, then go and have a cuppa.
Under the car I then removed the front exhaust clamp, it broke, I then separated the front and centre pipes. These vary from Multipla to Multipla
but mine had the CAT bolted to the underside of the manifold, some have CATs under the car I believe. I then removed a strange cage that surrounded the CAT which prevents it from being removed.
Back in the engine bay using a 3/8 13mm socket and a torque wrench for leverage first I gently eased the Manifold/CAT or MANCAT bolts out a small bit. I then sprayed more penetrating spray and left a few minutes. Then using a 1/4 drive socket with long extention and 13mm socket removed the 5 bolts holding the CAT on, 4 of the 5 came out quite easily, 1 snapped in the CAT which was removed later and the hole retapped (local garage £10). The Cat will drop on the floor, so be prepared for this.
The manifold nuts are 12mm, I used a good quality 12mm deep socket and with an initial crack, they removed quite easily. The 2 nuts to the top left and 1 underneath hold a support for the water pump, this will then come away when removed. TIP, when the nuts first 'crack loose' rock them gently back and forward a bit then remove, this helps prevent the stud snapping in the block, if it feels too tight STOP and let an expert do it, you do not want to snap studs in the engine.
The manifold then comes away, I left the lambda sensor in situ as it seemed too corroded and seized to remove.
I then had the manifold welded and plated as it is a weird metal compound and is not iron/steel but a sort of nickel alloy material. It also needed a slight skim as the exhaust outlet side was warped. This cost just £30 and took the guy just 45 minutes to complete, he then GALV sprayed it and I was ready to fit.
So the reverse sequence:
Fit gasket to engine studs
Tighten manifold nuts working from the inside out 24nm is the setting I used don't forget the water pump bracket.
Fit new copper gasket and refit CAT
Replace CAT cage underneath and refit CAT to exhaust using exhaust compound.
Refit water pump drive belt and bolt back in place ensuring correct tension on water pump belt. Replace plastic belt cover.
Refit manifold heat shield if present.
I then cleaned out all the oil breather pipes as some were mayonaised up. I also liberally sprayed WD40 on the throttle body and sensors and cleaned off as routine maintenance and also removed the throttle sensor (screwed into the 16v air intake) and cleaned with cotton bud and WD40.
Refit the black air intake to the top of the engine ensuring the breather pipes are located in the grooves in the engine between the box and the engine, take care not to disturb any wiring for the injectors and make sure the half olive shims are in place for the bolts that attach the box to the top of the engine.
Redo all Torx bolts at front of engine and refit air box to throttle body.
Refit the dipstick and breather pipes, I used jubilee clips all round for this purpose.
Refit HT leads
Refit airbox
Reconnect all electrical connections including lamda sensors.
Reconnect battery.
Start up and pray :worship:
