Technical Engine ticking noise on cold start...

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Technical Engine ticking noise on cold start...

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Amongst all of the other problems I'm having with this car, it not seems to have developed a ticking noise when starting from cold.

Basically, when the car has been left for a few hours and is cool, the engine starts as normal (poorly) and on each rotation of the engine, there is a tick/tap. It gets quicker when the engine revs and is defo one tick per rotation.

After about 2-3 mins of driving, the ticking disappears. Doesnt slowly fade, just stops. It then runs smooth and as normal. After a while it starts to sound a little rougher but doesnt tap like it does on start up. I'm not so concerned about this.

Checked a few threads in the search which said oil level, which I checked and whilst a little low, was still displaying on the dipstick within the min/max marker. I topped it up a little and on start up, the ticking went away quicker, although was still there. I only took it for a short drive but the car fully warmed up. I stopped, walked the dogs for 15 mins and then restarted and it was ticking again, even when warm :bang:.. again, went away after a min or 2.

Any ideas? Bearing in mind that the head gasket is on the way out and I will be replacing it in a week or so, could it be related?
 
Its a 16v.

Can't see the oil viscosity being the issue as its only started in the last few days and I havent changed the oil. I'll give it a change once i've done the head gasket so fingers crossed a new load of oil will cure it.

When I say ticking, it is more like a loud, single tap on each rotation.
 
Do you get a tap that taps the same speed as the engine, then all of a sudden, like 5 seconds or less it will just fade off to quiet (or normal)?

If so the noise is one of the hydraulic tappets draining it's self, what happens is once the engine is turned off, one of the valves is pinned open, as it sits over night the oil pressure in the tappet seeps out under the valve spring pressure, so when you start it in the morning the valve clearance on that one is very large, this can be solved by renewing the tappet in question or you can squeeze the tappets in a vice to drain the crap oil out, but once squeezed you MUST leave them in oil to fill them selves back up, and once they are refitted don't start the engine! leave it over night to settle or you'll get valves touching pistons, the squeeze out method might not work but it does 90% of the time.
 
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hi

i have a mk1 16v also and i know exactly what he is talking what i did and it worked was i took out the timing belt to change my water pump and when i put again i adjusted the tensioner. In the technical manual says how to install the tensioner if you install by the book the belt is going to be correctly

send me a pm for details if you need
 
Hmm..

Not convinced its anything related to the tensioner if I'm honest.

Regardless, head is coming off to change the head gasket over the next few days so it will all be re tensioned anyway.

do i need to explain that the sound you hear is from the valves, but once hidralic the valves adjust for themselves what means that something outside is making the valves close wrong ohh is the timing belt louse???
 
do i need to explain that the sound you hear is from the valves, but once hidralic the valves adjust for themselves what means that something outside is making the valves close wrong ohh is the timing belt louse???

Hydraulic tappets fail, they can pass over time, and if you can imagine how long it takes for oil pressure to fill them back up through a 1mm hole, or the other side is the tappets can over inflate (I've had this happen twice Ford CVH and Nissan RB25DET engines)
 
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