Yes!
Technical Engine stopped fiat 500
- Thread starter gsc1ugs
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Technical Engine stopped fiat 500
Mike1alike
Established member
Yes. This way:
Mike1alike
Established member
Firstly, lets hope it does run. And it totally should run, as you've mentioned the RPM needle remained on 0 while you cranked the engine. That means the sensor was off and it should run with the new sensor.
If it doesn't, you'll have to come back with details and we'll sort it out.
If it doesn't, you'll have to come back with details and we'll sort it out.
Do you have two keys?
Mike1alike
Established member
Correct, trying the second key (if you have one) is the first step. Also, imediat check must be done to the voltage, as low voltage triggers IMMO error. That is flat battery or connection problems, the ground cable usually does this, poor connection, oxidized/damaged contacts that lead to IMMO error.
Yes tried both keys, same, battery is new but i put jump leads on still nothing
You need to go back to analogue.
Earth the battery negative pole directly to the gearbox.
1). When you crank the engine, does it turn over at "fast" (i.e. normal starting) speed or is it sluggish?
2). When the engine is cranking, do you have sparks?
3b). To prove it.. when the engine cranks, do you get a current "pulse" at the fuel injector plug?
Earth the battery negative pole directly to the gearbox.
1). When you crank the engine, does it turn over at "fast" (i.e. normal starting) speed or is it sluggish?
- I read enough of the thread to think you said "yes".
- If it's sluggish, you need more volts and/or amps.
2). When the engine is cranking, do you have sparks?
- I think you said no..?
- If you do have sparks, it's a fuel issue.
3a). If you have no sparks at the plugs, is there a live feed to the coils? - If you have feed to the coils but no sparks at the plugs, the problem is very likely the TDC sensor.
3b). To prove it.. when the engine cranks, do you get a current "pulse" at the fuel injector plug?
- If you bend open the tangs on a T5 (glass bottom) bulb, they fit precisely into the injector plug and it flashes when there is current.. but you have a voltmeter.. so that's not a tip for you.
- If it doesn't flash when you crank the engine AND you came here from 3a), then it's your TDC sensor
4). If you have sparks at the spark plug and the injection/fuel "pulse" is working (as in 3b). - Check whether the fuel pump is actually delivering petrol when you turn the ignition on (primer) and also as you crank the engine. Could be a duff pump/circuit.
The "worst" scenario is that the coils have power but the injection system is still squirting gas .. since that means the ignition isn't being activated. That might be a characteristic of a TDC sensor failure.. or it might be a BCM / ECU issue... and it all gets digital (i.e. a complete and £££ PITA).
Best scenario is that the TDC sensor is knackered and a new one will tell the sparks and injection when to do their thing.. and Roberto is your mother's brother.
Ralf S.
His immediate issue is it now won't crank, you're right above, this needs expert diagnosis now
Correct it now doesn’t crank!!
Doesn't crank is fairly straightforward. Is there power at the starter? Also make sure it is definitely Earthed... this seems to crop up with every issue, so maybe becoming a prime suspect?
If the +/- connections check out but it's dead dead, remove the starter and conduct a static test on it, to see whether the solenoid is doing it's thing. You can try it in situ but it is a spectacular PITA.
It's really simple once you have it in your hands... basically connect the solenoid (small red lead) to a + and earth the starter.. the solenoid should pop the pinion/gear (?) out.
If that works, then try the big lead (the starter motor itself). That should spin the starter (so it's quite a bucking bronco ride doing this test with the starter "loose"... count your fingers to make sure none get left in the works).
If it doesn't meerkat or spin with direct +/- from the battery, it's KIA.. but luckily you've already removed it.
Ralf S.
If the +/- connections check out but it's dead dead, remove the starter and conduct a static test on it, to see whether the solenoid is doing it's thing. You can try it in situ but it is a spectacular PITA.
It's really simple once you have it in your hands... basically connect the solenoid (small red lead) to a + and earth the starter.. the solenoid should pop the pinion/gear (?) out.
If that works, then try the big lead (the starter motor itself). That should spin the starter (so it's quite a bucking bronco ride doing this test with the starter "loose"... count your fingers to make sure none get left in the works).
If it doesn't meerkat or spin with direct +/- from the battery, it's KIA.. but luckily you've already removed it.
Ralf S.
Immobiliser (light) does not prevent cranking. It prevents fuel and spark.
Different battery, extra jump between engine and battery- is what I would try at this stage.
gr J
Different battery, extra jump between engine and battery- is what I would try at this stage.
gr J
Mike1alike
Established member
Have you tried this?
But... you also have the IMMO on, so... you gotta sort that out, otherwise there's no chance you can start the engine.
Have you disconnected the ECU's little ground cable by any chance?
But... you also have the IMMO on, so... you gotta sort that out, otherwise there's no chance you can start the engine.
Have you disconnected the ECU's little ground cable by any chance?
Derbyfella
Established member
How did you do this?
