Technical Engine stalling

Currently reading:
Technical Engine stalling

Mypanda12

New member
Joined
Dec 22, 2025
Messages
7
Points
2
Location
Kent
Hi all, hope someone can help, I have just registered on this forum to help diagnose what is wrong with my Mums fiat Panda 2009. The issue is that it appears to intermittently stall, but strangely it seems only when the temp needle is below half way, so it runs fine when engine is warm. Starting from cold is no problem but after 4-5 mins of driving is often stalls. The battery is good.

My mum took it to garage and they checked it out, said it was a cambelt issue, so they replaced that (It likely did need replacing anyway as its done over 90K miles), and said its running fine and gave it back, but the issue persists. Then my Brother took it to another garage and asked them to clean out the throttle body, as someone told him that would fix the issue, but the issue still persists. Yesterday I replaced all the spark plugs, and all the HT leads, checked the two coil packs with a multimeter (both reading within spec), but again the issue still persists. The EML is not flashing up, and a quick scan with my cheapish reader reveals no pending codes, although there is x1 stored code (PO115,Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Circuit Malfunction).

Anyone have any ideas ? So far we have

Replaced cambelt (garage used a cambelt kit)
Cleaned soot from inlet manifold
Replaced Spark plugs
Replaced HT spark plug leads
Checked both the coil packs primary & secondary resistances (both readings are within spec)

Thanks for any help, the garages can find nothing wrong !!
 
Model
Panda
Year
2009
Mileage
90000
Last edited:
Are we talking

Cut out but restarts fine

Cuts out while diving along at speed

Or only stalling at junctions at idle

There quite I few common issues that can be checked without changing parts

The simplest first step.is to remove the MAP sensor and inspect it for oil, it's only one bolt, you can leave the electrical wire connected

Is your car cable or electronic throttle


Also post a picture of the of the old plugs
 
Thanks for reply Kolar, I should note first that the car is in fact a Mk 2 !! (posted in wrong sub-forum)

So, yes it does restart after stalling. It appears to stall only when coming to a stop or driving slowly; its fine on the motorway at speed !
The throttle is a cable type.
 
Thanks for reply Kolar, I should note first that the car is in fact a Mk 2 !! (posted in wrong sub-forum)

So, yes it does restart after stalling. It appears to stall only when coming to a stop or driving slowly; its fine on the motorway at speed !
Unlikely to be the crank sensor they fail when hot

It's usually fairly random and usually difficult to restart

Its fairly easy to spot on car with a rev count as it's on zero before the engine fully stops

Start with looking at the MAP

It's on the black intake manifold

Electronic throttle left side, cable throttle right side if facing the engine

1x torch bolt

Not sure about the cable but the electronic throttle you can get to without removing the air box
 
Thanks Koala, I will post some pics of the removed spark plugs (need to dry them with hairdryer as they been in the bin outside overnight). I will definitely take a look at the MAP sensor ? Will cleaning it suffice, or should I replace ? This stalling issue appears to only persist when the engine has not fully warmed up; for example yesterday my Brother started it and left it running for 1/2 hour, then took it for a drive and it was fine. He then left it for about 5 hours, started it and set off with the engine cold and the issue persists. We think its temperature related somehow, although who knows ???
 
Thanks Koala, I will post some pics of the removed spark plugs (need to dry them with hairdryer as they been in the bin outside overnight). I will definitely take a look at the MAP sensor ? Will cleaning it suffice, or should I replace ? This stalling issue appears to only persist when the engine has not fully warmed up; for example yesterday my Brother started it and left it running for 1/2 hour, then took it for a drive and it was fine. He then left it for about 5 hours, started it and set off with the engine cold and the issue persists. We think its temperature related somehow, although who knows ???
If it's oil fouled clean is fine

Point it noise down and spray with carb or brake cleaner

Push a strip of cloth through the hole to remove any excess

Depending on whether it's cable or electronic, the electronic ones require a long screwdriver or similar as it sits at the end of a long tube
 
Thanks will do that tomorrow when its light. The throttle is the cable type, not electronic. Here is some pics of the spark plugs, do these pics reveal anything ?? Thanks again its really helpful
20251222_165317.jpg
20251222_165411.jpg
!
 
All 4 plugs are rich, it's over fueling

You have a scan tool so we can see if the ltft and stft are in the positive to see if the ECU is adding fuel

But that's latter, after we seen if the MAP improves things


Second from right looks to have a small gap, is that the camera angle
 
All 4 plugs are rich, it's over fueling

You have a scan tool so we can see if the ltft and stft are in the positive to see if the ECU is adding fuel

But that's latter, after we seen if the MAP improves things


Second from right looks to have a small gap, is that the camera angle
Yep its the camera angle, they all have the same gap, and I agree they all look a bit sooty. The ltft & stft is lost on me but can investigate further if needed, thanks for the info. Anyhow not to dismiss your time and efforts in responding; I have read online that stalling can be caused:

"because the Engine Control Unit (ECU) receives a faulty "cold" signal, causing it to incorrectly adjust the fuel mixture (over-fueling) or trigger a safety shutdown."

and that this could be caused by either a "stuck open thermostat" (unlikely as car is not overheating), "Faulty coolant temperature sensor" (would this not enable the EML light ?), "Corroded wiring or earth strap" (possibly, will take a look at the earth strap tomorrow), "Air locks in the cooling system: That causes the gauge to fluctuate wildly (gauge is not wildly fluctuating). So my reasoning rules out 3 of those 4, leaving only the wiring issue (I really hope its not a wiring issue).

But, I will check the MAP sensor tomorrow as advised and hope it is just that. I will keep the post updated in any case !!
 
Faulty thermostat on these is fairly common
I never know them to cause stalling
It will over fuel

You should see the car struggling to get half way, should be in the middle within about 3 miles or so along as the cabin fan is only on 1 or 2 setting



It's fairly easy to test the thermostat from cold


But start on the most important
 
Back
Top