Technical Engine oil

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Technical Engine oil

MLW

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Two questions on a Panda 1.1 2006
I always use fully synthetic (why would you not?).

1). Book says 10-40w but I favour 5-40w as it is better when starting in winter and the 40w weight is still thick enough in summer. Seems to go well enough and is a good starter. Any views on this choice. What about mainly 5-30w and maybe a litre of 10-40?

2). Anyone used Mannol. It is 1/2 price other oils. It must meet specs or would be rejected in the UK, but I am suspicious. Given the car is 16 years old and I change the oil every 5K miles and given that oil technology has come on in those years, if the oil is not as good as Mobil 1, does it matter?

Interested in opinions.
 
Two questions on a Panda 1.1 2006
I always use fully synthetic (why would you not?).
I agree mainly because it's going to have the very latest in additive packages. However having said that, our wee F.I.R.E. engines are pretty "agricultural" and basic in design. Unlike the Multi air and Twin air units which, from all the posts on here, are VERY critical of their oil. However, if I was really wanting to save every last penny I'd not be too worried about feeding a F.I.R.E. engine on semi synthetic or even straight mineral oil - but to the correct spec. Regular changes of oil being much more important in my view.
1). Book says 10-40w but I favour 5-40w as it is better when starting in winter and the 40w weight is still thick enough in summer. Seems to go well enough and is a good starter. Any views on this choice. What about mainly 5-30w and maybe a litre of 10-40?
I run our Panda 1.2 (60hp) on Fuchs 5W-40 and used to run my boy's Punto 1.4 VVT on the same and the results have been excellent with the inside of the engine staying really clean and the thinner cold rating - 5W - helping the oil to circulate quickly which helps the "cold start tappet rattle" disappear very quickly. I used to run Felicity, the panda in my avatar picture, on 10W-40 but back then 5W-40 wasn't a common spec. The 10w only means it's slightly more viscous when cold compared to the 5W stuff. As both are 40W when hot they will be largely the same for most of the run time on the engine.
Mixing 5W-30 and 10w-40, I have to ask what's the point? It's going to make so little difference to viscosity it will be pretty much impossible to detect. Also, unless you use exactly the same make of oil, you may compromise the additive effectiveness and the additives are very important in modern oils. So no, I wouldn't do it.
2). Anyone used Mannol. It is 1/2 price other oils. It must meet specs or would be rejected in the UK, but I am suspicious. Given the car is 16 years old and I change the oil every 5K miles and given that oil technology has come on in those years, if the oil is not as good as Mobil 1, does it matter?

Interested in opinions.
I've seen Mannol advertised but non of my suppliers deal with it so I've never used it. If it complies with the Fiat spec (955535-S2 for our Panda and the boy's Punto) then it'll be fine. Mobil1 is a fine oil but bit of an overkill for something like our wee Fiats.

I'd just like to add. We're looking at a pretty basic engine here, No turbo, no hydraulic valve tappets, (all right, later versions have VVT cams but they don't seem to be "oil fussy") also on newer engines there are often calibrated oil restrictors for oil supply to camshafts, piston cooling sprays, etc, etc. These more modern engines are VERY oil critical and many require very specific oils to function properly - just look at the posts on here regarding the Twin air problems when people have used the wrong oil. So, be very careful indeed as to what you stick in any of these wee modern engines. For me, if it's a car/engine I'm not familiar with then a good indicator is whether it has a turbo or not. Turbos are very hard on their oils due to the extremes of heat they induce in the oil - most actually use the oil flowing through them as a coolant - So, as soon as I see an engine with a turbo It's shouting out to me to check what the Manufacturer's oil spec is and then buy an oil which meets that spec (I'm talking about the actual manufacturer's spec here, not simply that it's a 5W-30 for instance. So the Panda runs on 5W-40 to FIAT 955535-S2 and the Scala runs on 0W-20 to VAG VW508.00/509.00 and you'll find these manufacturer specs on the tin if you look hard enough. In fact the Scala, being new, may well be filled with a Fuchs product as Fuchs are an original fill supplier to Skoda/VW
Just for illustrative purposes here's a container of actual VW product for the Scala: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12653265...XFcn_lycnySSQkUkliZSIY2gQdQVkC3hoCehwQAvD_BwE You can see both the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) viscosity rating and the , much more important, VW specification in smaller lettering underneath.
 
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Oh, that's interesting. I just magnified the label on the back of the container and it say's "manufactured by Shell Spain" Well, blow me down, I knew Castrol and Fuchs were suppliers but never come across Shell on a VAG container before. Mind you, non of the manufacturers will be making their own oil so they will be buying it in from the major oil companies and that's what Shell is. So I shouldn't be surprised. All goes to show it's not the manufacturer what's important (although I would be put off by a name I'd never heard of after a life in and around the motor trade) it's the compliance with the MANUFACTURER'S spec.
 
The whole point of putting fully synthetic in is the extended service intervals

Put fully synthetic in and changing a 5K is like pouring money down the drain, book interval is 12K miles


Oils for the 60 hp not to important and has changed over time

I use whatever on offer at the time that close

Here's the 2007 manual




Screenshot_20240630-121921.png
 
All good stuff. I have always taken the view that with an old car one over-services it. Fully synthetic is so common now I just look at the spec and go with it. I have use ASDA oil in my Lexus and it is fine. Its probably Comma anyway. The spec is the key bit.
Run my old Mercedes 124 on 6k oil changes. At 146K it was still going great.
It is true these are pretty simple engines so an oil change and filter at 5k is only about £25. Peanuts to avoid engine problems.
Where are we on Mannol?
 
I've just put Mannol 10w40 in my 2004 1.2 (handbook specifies 10w40 semi synthetic).

Only reason is it's now the only 10w40 that my local motor factors stocks. Before they had Maxol so I used that.

I was amused to see it's labelled as a 'Classic' oil. So maybe the poor old FIRE engine is considered old hat. Or the 169 is now rightfully considered a classic :)

I was confused by no mention of synthetic or semi synth on the bottle. Just that it's 'HC Synthese' and 'SCT Technology Ester'. I had a go at reading up on that but just got confused. And I don't really overthink the oil going in the Panda, just that it meets spec.
 
All good stuff. I have always taken the view that with an old car one over-services it. Fully synthetic is so common now I just look at the spec and go with it. I have use ASDA oil in my Lexus and it is fine. Its probably Comma anyway. The spec is the key bit.
Run my old Mercedes 124 on 6k oil changes. At 146K it was still going great.
It is true these are pretty simple engines so an oil change and filter at 5k is only about £25. Peanuts to avoid engine problems.
Where are we on Mannol?
The petrol engines are good for an easy 200K with standard oil changed intervals @ 12K

I have had two 1.1 and 1.2 at around this mark

The difference between 5K and 12k soon mounts up over the life of the engine it's over £600 Just in the extra oil changes, it's actually cheaper to swap engines

I normally pay £10-15 for 5L but it is getting harder to find at this price point, home and bargains sometimes has shell or similar on offer

However it does also depend on how you use the car

4k a year is not the same 20K per year for example
 
True.
My daughter does 3,500+ miles a year in London and the odd long run. £25 ever 30 months or so seems cheap to keep the car going. She loves the car and if it is a bit to keep it going.....so be it.
 
True.
My daughter does 3,500+ miles a year in London and the odd long run. £25 ever 30 months or so seems cheap to keep the car going. She loves the car and if it is a bit to keep it going.....so be it.

30 months is about 9k which sounds about right for a petrol

Unfortunately the cambelt should be changed every 4 years due to the start stop nature
 
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I do less than 2000 mls a year about 16/1700 to be exact but change oil and filter every year. For what it cost's its worth it for piece of mind.
Look after them and they'll look after you. :)
Much the same scenario with our Becky. With so many short trips condensation, acid corrosion etc is bound to be a problem so a yearly oil change is cheap insurance coupled with the occasional trip out of town to see my boys.
 
My other car, the Mercedes only does about 2500 Mls a year as I only use it when the weather is fine and an annual trip down to Cornwall.
I use Shell Helix Ultra which is fully synthetic. So, I'm changing the oil and filter every 2 years. To ad, when I do use it it's always a run of 50 Mls or more so the engine gets properly up to temperature. I checked the oil last week before I set off and it's just slightly discolored. It's due for it's change next month along with a Mercedes filter.
 
My wife's '13 is now up to 76k miles. its starting to sound a little 'tappity' and we now live in France. This last year it's started to drink a drop too. I havent measured exactly but it's probably 1ltr every 1500 miles. lots of short trips and we regularly have 30c plus days in the summer so I have just decided to change the viscosity. I have always put 5/30 in it but my local Carrefore is selling SN spec 10/40 at 18euros for 5ltrs. Happy days.

 
My wife's '13 is now up to 76k miles. its starting to sound a little 'tappity' and we now live in France. This last year it's started to drink a drop too. I havent measured exactly but it's probably 1ltr every 1500 miles. lots of short trips and we regularly have 30c plus days in the summer so I have just decided to change the viscosity. I have always put 5/30 in it but my local Carrefore is selling SN spec 10/40 at 18euros for 5ltrs. Happy days.

I have piston slap developing only when cold and only at tick (180k miles). Mine is '09 and I recently found out that the recommendation in the booklet back then was 10w-40. To my knowledge, the recommendation changed to 5W-40 a bit down the line. 5W-40 was what the previous owner was using. With my limited knowledge I would guess the spec changed to 5W-40 to keep the oil ACEA C3 with mid saps, since there is no (to my knowledge) 10W-40 with ACEA C3. I have been using 5W-40 but will change it to 10W-40 (and thinking even for 15W-40 cause of the high mileage).
 
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I have piston slap developing only when cold and only at tick (180k miles). Mine is '09 and I recently found out that the recommendation in the booklet back then was 10w-40. To my knowledge, the recommendation changed to Fiat 9.55535-S2 and 5W-40 a bit down the line. 5W-40 was what the previous owner was using. With my limited knowledge I would guess the spec changed to 5W-40 to keep the oil ACEA C3 with mid saps, since there is no (to my knowledge) 10W-40 with ACEA C3. I have been using 5W-40 but will change it to 10W-40 (and thinking even for 15W-40 cause of the high mileage).
Yeah with the big mileage 15/40 is probably the way to go. This summer is cooler than last year overall but all of next week is forecast 36c, so in the future and with more miles I may well move to 15/40 myself during the summer. The winters can be freezing here in the southern Dordogne though.
 
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