Tuning Electronic ignition kit modification

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Tuning Electronic ignition kit modification

gordinir8

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I finally installed an electronic ignition kit, not a full electronic advance unit, just replaced the points/condenser with a magnetic pickup. From the very first crank you can hear the difference, engine runs smoother and driving difference is noticeably so i highly recommend to anyone this modification, you can find 2-3 kits available at ebay, i just picked the cheaper one:slayer:

Thomas

ps Just keep the removed parts somewhere in your car for a field repair since there is nothing more reliable that points...just in case
 
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IMHO well worth doing.

Chris
 

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Good choice,please keep us updated when you put it and since you will remove your distributor give it a good inspection, clean it and lubricate it.
 
Chris since you have done it, what about your magnet fit? In my case it was kind of loose at distributor cam and I secure it with silicon sealant.

Thomas
 
Hi Thomas,

I did this on the way to a complete electronic ignition (123ignition) and the kit came from HotSpark ( http://www.hot-spark.com/1-3MAR2C2L.htm ).

The magnetic trigger fitted snugly on the top of the distributor shaft. A gentle but firm push had it seated perfectly.

I know points are reliable when set properly and checked regularly but it was the string of dud condensers that convinced me in the end. This type of Hall effect technology has been around for quite a while now and I believe that it is very reliable, though there will always be someone out there with a contrary opinion. All I can say is to do as you have - fit it, run it and have a spare set of points and condenser with you.

By way of a plug for complete electronic systems, every old car that I own is fitted with a 123ignition system and thus far I've been very impressed. My 1750GTV Alfa has had one for years now and I wouldn't be without it. BTW I have no pecuniary or other association with 123ignition (had to say that for the Americans on the list :)). Only downside is that they are expensive.

Happy New Year,
Chris
 
Hi Thomas,

I did this on the way to a complete electronic ignition (123ignition) and the kit came from HotSpark ( http://www.hot-spark.com/1-3MAR2C2L.htm ).

The magnetic trigger fitted snugly on the top of the distributor shaft. A gentle but firm push had it seated perfectly.

I know points are reliable when set properly and checked regularly but it was the string of dud condensers that convinced me in the end. This type of Hall effect technology has been around for quite a while now and I believe that it is very reliable, though there will always be someone out there with a contrary opinion. All I can say is to do as you have - fit it, run it and have a spare set of points and condenser with you.

By way of a plug for complete electronic systems, every old car that I own is fitted with a 123ignition system and thus far I've been very impressed. My 1750GTV Alfa has had one for years now and I wouldn't be without it. BTW I have no pecuniary or other association with 123ignition (had to say that for the Americans on the list :)). Only downside is that they are expensive.

Happy New Year,
Chris



Like the 123 ignition too - Like you I've fitted on different cars. Good build quality, really easy to set up (LED - on static) and 16 maps for tuning
 
I installed the Pertronix Ignitor kit. They make one specifically for the 1955-1988 500/126. Kit fit perfectly and works perfectly. About $100 USD. Kit number is MR-122.
The nice thing about these type of kits is that once you set the timing, you never have to set it again.
John
 
@gordinir8 Hi - sorry to resurrect this old thread. I'm thinking of installing a Powerspark hall effect ignition module as per your post above. I found it here at simonbbc.com. I watched the video and it doesn't seem too hard to do. but I notice that the blurb includes:

" - To be used with a coil resistance above 1.5 ohms only
- MUST be used with silicone HT leads, NOT COPPER."

Is a 500 coil suitable?
Did you change the HT leads?

(others such as Accuspark Kit 30 don't seem to mention coil type or leads)

Any tips gratefully received :)

Cheers,

Simon

btw this is my current setup: standard distributor (I assume) and Magneti Marelli coil. The condenser and leads were replaced about 1000kms ago just before I bought the car.
 

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Hi, Better follow the instructions, If your coil has less than 1.5ohm resistance you can use a ballast resistor to meet the limit otherwise excessive current might destroy it so just measure your coil to see the value. Now most popular coil is the Blue Bosch coil with 3 ohm internal resistance, those supposed to be very reliable although i am not sure that the quality is the same as in the old days. Again if yours has above 1.5ohm don't change it. I have also put new leads but at the time i was fitted my powerspark this was not written at the instructions i think. It is good to replace those anyway as per suggestion. I also keep a spare coil in my car since those got very very hot so its good to have a spare. Please report back when you install it. Check if your cables are cooper or silicon carbon inside.
 
One thing to remember about ALL the electronic ignitions is that they do not like continual heat (above 100C). The 500/126 engine is unique in that the distributor is fair and square in the path of HOT air---the air cooling the engine. Just about every other car that I can think of has the distributor in a very much cooler spot. This continual heat is nearly always the cause of the demise of an electonic ignition (and condensers if you still have points fitted), be it the '123' system or the simple (but very effective) 'Hall effect' system. My 'Powerspark' ignition is wired up to a Bosch 'Blue' coil
I suffered a major problem on my way home one day---took me over 3-1/2 hours to do a 50 minute trip! I have fitted a small 'dam' inside the thermostat-housing to deflect hot air away from the distributor---so far it seems to be working. When I have checked the temperature of the distributor vis-a-vis the thermostat housing (with a laser temperature gun), the distributor is about 10C cooler than the housing, but more importantly, BELOW 100C. But I will admit, just in case it all goes 'pear-shaped', to having a complete 'points' distributor in with the tool kit, complete with "Swiftune" condenser.
 
One thing to remember about ALL the electronic ignitions is that they do not like continual heat (above 100C). The 500/126 engine is unique in that the distributor is fair and square in the path of HOT air---the air cooling the engine. Just about every other car that I can think of has the distributor in a very much cooler spot. This continual heat is nearly always the cause of the demise of an electonic ignition (and condensers if you still have points fitted), be it the '123' system or the simple (but very effective) 'Hall effect' system. My 'Powerspark' ignition is wired up to a Bosch 'Blue' coil
I suffered a major problem on my way home one day---took me over 3-1/2 hours to do a 50 minute trip! I have fitted a small 'dam' inside the thermostat-housing to deflect hot air away from the distributor---so far it seems to be working. When I have checked the temperature of the distributor vis-a-vis the thermostat housing (with a laser temperature gun), the distributor is about 10C cooler than the housing, but more importantly, BELOW 100C. But I will admit, just in case it all goes 'pear-shaped', to having a complete 'points' distributor in with the tool kit, complete with "Swiftune" condenser.
Thanks, Hobbler, worth considering.
 
Looks like I've got copper HT leads based on pulling the end of one of the spark plugs and peering down the connector.

On the plus side it seems like the coil is 3+ ohms measured across the external + and - terminals
 

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@the hobbler Hi Hobbler - just wondering what the dam you referred to above ("I have fitted a small 'dam' inside the thermostat-housing to deflect hot air away from the distributor") consist of? I'm trying to imagine it and thought of one of the following (red on my diagram):

1. Additional angled 'flap'
2. Boxed-in Toblerone shape

Can you remember what you did?

Alternatively, I was thinking of maybe a baffle, spaced out from the edge of the housing (as in green)... or even thermal insulation sheet on the inside of the housing.
 

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