General Does Replacing all Brake Hoses require bleeding entire brake system ?

[AyLa]

When replacing all brake hoses, does this require the entire brake system to be bled or only partially bled ? ( by partially I mean you only lose a little brake fluid ).

Disks on front, drums on rear.

Any hints or tips ?

Cheers.

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi.
Syphon the reservoir.. then you can
brim fill the system..


Bleed 1 wheels brake at a time..

Rears are worse.. do the flexi on suspension.. then on to caliper.

 

[PuntoHowTo]

If you are replacing all hoses then you will absolutely need to bleed the whole system.

 

[nikrox]

I use a cheap turkey baster to syphon the res and a Gunsens eezibleed ...makes any brake fluid job nice and easy.
TBH you really do want to flush through and replace the brake fluid. Over time brake fluid absorbs water and therefore becomes easier to compress,ie brakes become less effective...Hydroscopic is the term I think.

 

[g8rpi]

I use a cheap turkey baster to syphon the res and a Gunsens eezibleed ...makes any brake fluid job nice and easy.
TBH you really do want to flush through and replace the brake fluid. Over time brake fluid absorbs water and therefore becomes easier to compress,ie brakes become less effective...Hydroscopic is the term I think.

The above is all good advice and correct apart from one small detail, when brake fluid absorbs water it does not become more compressible, but if fluid that has absorbed water gets hot e.g. under heavy or prolonged breaking, the water in the fluid will vapourise or boil and water vapour and steam are compressible. So you could be fine for years with old fluid and then when you really need them for emergency braking or on long down hill run they can fail.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[puntodad19]

yep as above.......

i tend to remove all the old fluid from the master cylinder res and fill with new clean fluid from a sealed container.

bleed on wheel at a time.

I tend to allow fluid to syphon out first until clean fluid is seen at each wheel in turn, then go thru bleed process, but yes an easybleed set up is easier and onl;y needs on person.

dont reuse old fluid.

are all bleed nipples free ( that is nut seized into the caliper on fronts and cylinders on rears ) and clear ( the holes in the bleed nipples clear at both ends )?

dont shear off any nipples!!!!

take your tome and enjoy.

Its easier if the car is up in the air and each wheel is off, car being leve

some windscreen washer tubing is good as well as clean jam jars, and of course 1 litre of new fluid from a sealed container, at the cars spec.

 

[JDP12]

when any lines are removed the brakes should be bled, best to work on 1 corner at a time.. I.e replace one line, bleed the corner it feeds and then move on, its best practice to start at the furthest point from the reservoir also.

so in the ideal situation- if the reservoir is on the drivers side, you would start at the passenger rear, then do the drivers rear, then pass front, then drivers front.

the aim is to allow as little air into the system whilst working. if you work on 1 corner at a time and bleed it as you go, you should clear the entire system.