Technical Disc brakes

[Alixcompo]

A while ago someone was asking about front brake pads and I meant to post some pictures.

Rather than searching through to find which thread it was I shall post here.

For those who don't know what their calipers look like then here they are.



This is a brand new disc. The caliper mount requires the removal of the bottom bolt and it will swing (bash or lever) up wards out of the way. It isn't necessary to take out the top bolt.



This is the caliper. If you are fitting new pads then you will have to push the piston (which presses on the pads) back into the caliper body.
The 'G' clamp is my un-sophisticated way of doing it.



When refitting the caliper, push it well into place and pull it up so that you can slide the bottom wedge into place. You should be able to do the easily by hand. If not you have something wrong.



With the bottom wedge in place (Thin edge between the caliper and pad carrier) use a screwdriver (remember that no one ever broke a screwdriver using it for what it was designed for.) gently lever in and down and it should be simple to offer the top wedge into place. It may need a tap to finally position it.
DON'T FORGET THE LITTLE WIRE CLIPS. They stop the wedges vibrating out and the caliper dropping off. Not good.

 

[JohnDragonMan]

nice. shiny new parts always look.. the part!

something i always do when working on the brakes is use the G clamp to press the piston in. but before i do it i open the bleed nipple up. its nasty some of the fluid that is held in the caliper. then if you are not doing a complete fluid change just top it up with new stuff.

you have to use DOT 4 stuff now days. around Derby DOT 3 is really hard to get hold of. its ok though, you can mix the two.

 

[pooroldcodger]

A while ago someone was asking about front brake pads and I meant to post some pictures.

Rather than searching through to find which thread it was I shall post here.

For those who don't know what their calipers look like then here they are.



This is a brand new disc. The caliper mount requires the removal of the bottom bolt and it will swing (bash or lever) up wards out of the way. It isn't necessary to take out the top bolt.



This is the caliper. If you are fitting new pads then you will have to push the piston (which presses on the pads) back into the caliper body.
The 'G' clamp is my un-sophisticated way of doing it.



When refitting the caliper, push it well into place and pull it up so that you can slide the bottom wedge into place. You should be able to do the easily by hand. If not you have something wrong.



With the bottom wedge in place (Thin edge between the caliper and pad carrier) use a screwdriver (remember that no one ever broke a screwdriver using it for what it was designed for.) gently lever in and down and it should be simple to offer the top wedge into place. It may need a tap to finally position it.
DON'T FORGET THE LITTLE WIRE CLIPS. They stop the wedges vibrating out and the caliper dropping off. Not good.

It was me!
Your nice clean parts make it easier to see what's going on. I have never come across those "door stopper" wedges before.
Thanks again for taking the trouble.