Technical Different Ignition Systems

[dangfiat]

While battling the constant death of capacitors, was wondering what all ya'll run as an ignition system?

I have a 650 with standard dizzy/points. Going to put a better cam, head & exhaust. Already have the 32/28 fzd. Thinking of doing something different for spark

1. Get a Swiftune capacitor, keep the standard dizzy (do I need a recurve for a 40/80 cam? Will see)
2. Later 126 wasted spark system? Is this more reliable than the distributor? A useful upgrade?
3. 123 electronic? I like the ability to tune a bit, but does a heat wrapped 123 survive well? Anyone running one long term?
4. Engine Mangement: do something like this: Engine Mangement Kit from the late 126's. Can even replace with a programable ECU

What are all of you running? Pro's/Con's of each system?

Cheers
Daniel

 

[porta]

For me, on a classic, simplest is best, you can change and alter points and condenser at the side of the road, don’t take up space, even in a 500, 600, 126…

 

[Bleeding Knuckles]

Hi DF, Late model 126 wasted spark for me Never a problem always starts and runs well.
Ian.

 

[fiat500]

While battling the constant death of capacitors, was wondering what all ya'll run as an ignition system?

I have a 650 with standard dizzy/points. Going to put a better cam, head & exhaust. Already have the 32/28 fzd. Thinking of doing something different for spark

1. Get a Swiftune capacitor, keep the standard dizzy (do I need a recurve for a 40/80 cam? Will see)
2. Later 126 wasted spark system? Is this more reliable than the distributor? A useful upgrade?
3. 123 electronic? I like the ability to tune a bit, but does a heat wrapped 123 survive well? Anyone running one long term?
4. Engine Mangement: do something like this: Engine Mangement Kit from the late 126's. Can even replace with a programable ECU

What are all of you running? Pro's/Con's of each system?

Cheers
Daniel

My 123 went faulty, not through heat, but because the internal circuit-board and associated wiring and securing screws are physically, poorly designed and engineered and in my case the spindle was inaccurately shimmed, which ended up causing mechanical problems with the distributor. The manufacturers aren't interested in after-service. The body is really well made and the principle is great. I used one for thousands of miles until it went bad and never suffered problems with it getting too hot.

 

[the hobbler]

My 123 went faulty, not through heat, but because the internal circuit-board and associated wiring and securing screws are physically, poorly designed and engineered and in my case the spindle was inaccurately shimmed, which ended up causing mechanical problems with the distributor. The manufacturers aren't interested in after-service. The body is really well made and the principle is great. I used one for thousands of miles until it went bad and never suffered problems with it getting too hot.

I use a simple 'Hall effect' electronic ignition with a Marelli Magneti twin outlet coil (part number:--060717029012) fitted on the left side of the engine, where the air-filter normally goes (filter housing removed as I have a Dellerto FZD fitted). When I had the filter space filled, I had 2 captive nuts welded to the underside of the covering plate so that I could mount the coil there. I have a deflector-plate inside the thermostat housing in order to protect the distributor from the worst of the hot 'cooling' air being blown over it---distributor temperature is about 92/93C, even after a long run.
I have a 40/80/80/40 cam in my engine, and for a time ran it on 'standard' distributor and points---no problems at all. However, I will concede that had a Swiftune condenser mounted up by the coil rather than one mounted to the distributor. I have found a maker (and supplier) of very high quality 'traditional' condensers which can be mounted on the side of the distributor..
It is possible to have "wasted-spark" points ignition. I found a twin-outlet coil suitable (and designed) for 'points' operation on 2-cylinder classic motor bikes. Again, mounted it on the 'cool' side of the engine with the condenser suitably wired in to the coil (and next to it---on the 'cool'side) and distributor, not forgetting the wire from the coil to the distributor. It workedwell---car started very easily, hot or cold,and ran very well.
A word of warning regarding the latest "123" systems----they are no longer made in The Netherlands and the quality of the latest versions of the 123 system is such that a lot of the European suppliers are no longer stocking this system

 

[JumpJet]

Had a 123 die on me, so I tried a Pertronix. Heat killed that (too?). Went back to points with a Swiftune condensor and it's running strong. I'm not going back.

 

[dangfiat]

Thanks all! Another great discussion.

I'm going to go with the Swiftune condensor for now just to keep the little guy on the road. I also like the "keep it simple" approach

But... the engineer in me might have a go at the later distributer less system coupled with some cheap programmable ECU like a Speeduino or something.

Hehehe, first things first tho... I need to get my Riley up and running, THEN get the little 500 motor built up. Baby steps !!