Technical Could you measure please - distributor

[s5jst]

Hi,

Troubles with distributor...could anyone please measure resistance on ignition module for FIRE 1.1.
I measured between connector and distributor body and it is around 8 ohms. One contact on connector is "dead" and other shows between 7 and 9 ohms.

Looks like mine ignition module is giving up but I'm not sure. This is why resistance was checked.


Thanks,

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Sounds like it has gone. Is this the 'Amp' on the dizzy? I know they go by different names

What type is it you have? The black one, or one with heat sink

 

[s5jst]

It has two wires - green and red but I don't know whether it is "black" or "heated" because I didn't unscrew it to see the back side. I assume that it is still FIAT origin because the case is black with silver ribs.

I am asking this because engine while it is on "zero" it runs OK but as soon you add some throttle idle stays on 1800 rpm. I checked the timing and set it to 5° (according to manual it must be 7° so I will re-set it today) and it looks little better.


BTW throttle cable doesn't stuck - servo on carb opens it.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Silver ribs sounds like the heat sink type. Are you able to upload a pic?

 

[s5jst]

MEP, here are pics of module...to me it looks like heat sink type.

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

That is indeed the heat sink type. Wire's going into it look ok, as they sometimes start to go, so I'd guess it's likly to be the actual AMP unit if that's not looking like the problem.

I'd hope that someone else posts in here, as to if it comes with a heat sink or not, or how to change it, as the Amp I've changed was the none heat sink, black type.

Jon.

 

[s5jst]

Don't know.

I just know that there is somethin on amplifier, ignition unit, carb, plugs or cables between all this. This is why I am looking for resistance measures

 

[s5jst]

Just to close this "niggly" problem. A (very) close inspection was taken:

- disconected all the cables with distributor cap
- cleaned all the contacts on cap and "plug ends"
- cleaned plug caps
- removed the ECU unit. Ground contact was dirty and cleaned. I also found out that ECU connectors were covered with grease - cleaned with some paper
- while this was not enought I also checked the distributor (I didn't unscrew it). While it is breakerless I just cleaned the grounding toung and fold it a little (bad contact with distributor body).
- At last I also unscrew the throttle position sensor (opposite side as throttle cable) and find that there is a scrap on conductor band (can't describe better, sorry).

Engine runs better (at least at 23 o'clock in garage), but I think that the throttle sensor needs to be replaced. I forecast that this is why engine runs at too low or to high rpm because computer can't hit the scrappy part and therefore the optimal rpm.