Technical Coolant pipe replacement

Currently reading:
Technical Coolant pipe replacement

Joined
Dec 19, 2023
Messages
46
Points
71
Location
UK
Hi all,

Think I am going to replace the coolant pipe on my 500 (#55185422) as I found it to be pretty rusty when I had the exhaust manifold off, and I have to drain the coolant anyway as there's a slow leak from the thermostat. Just wondering:
  • Is it possible to change the pipe from underneath the car (ie without pulling the exhaust manifold)?
  • Should I grease up the rubber seal, and if so would moly grease work?
Cheers
 
Its a "fiddly" job! leave yourself plenty of time and make the work space as comfortable as possible! make sure car is PROERLY supported and dont rush the work! have a good workshop torch to hand be careful re-fitting the new part when reseating the sealing rubber its easy to split or distort so IMO a little grease (sparingly) is a good idea!.
I took a few photos from as number of angles prior to removal so i could check position/angle/ seating when the new one was on!
Last thing you want is to get it all back together and find it leaking! if in doubt changer the rubber hose as well!.
 
Its a "fiddly" job! leave yourself plenty of time and make the work space as comfortable as possible! make sure car is PROERLY supported and dont rush the work! have a good workshop torch to hand be careful re-fitting the new part when reseating the sealing rubber its easy to split or distort so IMO a little grease (sparingly) is a good idea!.
I took a few photos from as number of angles prior to removal so i could check position/angle/ seating when the new one was on!
Last thing you want is to get it all back together and find it leaking! if in doubt changer the rubber hose as well!.
First off I'll say I'm much more familiar with the Panda but the FIRE engine installation in the 500 is similar. Yup, fiddly is the word. You'll find you have to turn it this way and that. Pay particular attention to how you twist and turn it when removing the old one. On the Panda it's certainly doable without removing the exhaust manifold - or is it Manicat?

I wouldn't use a mineral based lubricant on the seal at the back of the water pump. something like silicon grease or rubber lube should ensure the seal doesn't then subsequently degrade.

Be very careful slackening the wee bolt which holds it to the front of the block, I had one snap off and had to remove the grill and radiator so I could drill it out. It needs a very determined shove to get the seal to enter the back of the water pump.
 
First off I'll say I'm much more familiar with the Panda but the FIRE engine installation in the 500 is similar. Yup, fiddly is the word. You'll find you have to turn it this way and that. Pay particular attention to how you twist and turn it when removing the old one. On the Panda it's certainly doable without removing the exhaust manifold - or is it Manicat?

I wouldn't use a mineral based lubricant on the seal at the back of the water pump. something like silicon grease or rubber lube should ensure the seal doesn't then subsequently degrade.

Be very careful slackening the wee bolt which holds it to the front of the block, I had one snap off and had to remove the grill and radiator so I could drill it out. It needs a very determined shove to get the seal to enter the back of the water pump.
Yep red rubber grease is what i use!
 
On the Panda it's certainly doable without removing the exhaust manifold - or is it Manicat?

Be very careful slackening the wee bolt which holds it to the front of the block, I had one snap off and had to remove the grill and radiator so I could drill it out. It needs a very determined shove to get the seal to enter the back of the water pump.
I'd say that it's actually to be recommended that you attempt to change it without disturbing the manifold as the studs holding it to the head are quite well known to snap!
 
Hi all

Attempted this today. Relatively straightforward to do with the bumper off, a little fiddly getting that one screw out. Existing rubber seal came out without too much trouble using a hook and loop to loosen the edge slightly, then a flathead + hammer to knock it loose.

However, I am having an absolute god damn nightmare easing the new one into place. I've been trying about an hour now, tried soaking the new seal in antifreeze, tried silicone grease, tried lots of swearing. I just cannot get that last 3mm or so in. If anyone has any tips I would be grateful.
 
first have you measured it againts the old one to make sure its EXACTLY the same size? if it is?-t the can i assume you are putting it in place by hand then trying to drift it in with a socket or the like the same size as the outer diameter( it is the right way round isnt it?).
If no joy then you could try putting the seal in the fridge over night and before trying to fit it, warm the housing with a hair dryer for a few minutes- the cold will shrink the seal slightly and warming the housing will expand it which might give you the little extra clearance you need! but you will have to work fast you will probably only get one attempt at it! good luck!
 
first have you measured it againts the old one to make sure its EXACTLY the same size? if it is?-t the can i assume you are putting it in place by hand then trying to drift it in with a socket or the like the same size as the outer diameter( it is the right way round isnt it?).
If no joy then you could try putting the seal in the fridge over night and before trying to fit it, warm the housing with a hair dryer for a few minutes- the cold will shrink the seal slightly and warming the housing will expand it which might give you the little extra clearance you need! but you will have to work fast you will probably only get one attempt at it! good luck!

It came attached to the new pipe as one unit and I can't separate them so I'm trying to push it in using the pipe!
 
measure/compare everything to the old one if its a different size then nothing you do is going to get it in if its the same size then THERE MUST BE A WAY! someone who has had similar problems and solved it should answer eventually!
When i did mine the seal came separate hence my answer!
 
Think I have found the actual problem by comparing to the old pipe - the seal is slightly longer but more importantly, the screw hole bracket has been welded on several mm out of place. Bit of bending and it seems to be in now!
 
Looking at some of the pictures of pipes availible online many of them show a seal that is "stepped or has two ridges ,look at that set up i would suggest that your getting it over the first"bump" then having trouble forcing it over the 2nd one to go fully home in the housing? i think it kinda needs forcing back and forth from "side to side" NOT in and out!!! to attempt to get one side of the second ridge started!, then push the opposite side to get the other edge in! I suspect that when it does go in it will just kinda "pop " into place but could take some effort and fiddling!
I your tired or frustrated best to stop and start another day!
 
Have filled up the car and bled her now - no leaks so all good!

In short - it was fiddly but pretty straightforward really, bumper needed to come off but oil filter and exhaust manifold could stay where it was. Bit of silicone grease will get the new seal in without too much fuss (but make sure your new pipe has actually had the bracket welded in the right place!). I actually wasn't able to find an OE marked part for this so that's probably why the QC was a bit lax.
 
I actually wasn't able to find an OE marked part for this so that's probably why the QC was a bit lax.
Shop4parts have them in stock at the time of writing, but one of them will cost you £63.46! They will also sell you an aftermarket one for £22.25, so your bit of fettling has saved you over £40.
 
Back
Top