Technical Coolant Level - HELP

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Technical Coolant Level - HELP

pmheathcote

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Hi all,

3 days ago I had a new thermostat housing as mine had developed a very small coolant leak.

Every morning since then my coolant has been just below the min mark. Every morning I top back up to max but the next day its is down again.

Interestingly it never drops any lower than just below the min mark?

I was hoping that this was just air in the system? Or is this where it should be when cold?

Any thoughts. No other leaks visible and garage did a pressure test and all fine.

Thanks

Paul
 
Seems to be the case, keep topping it up to max, if this goes on for more than a week or 7 fills then start looking but it seems to be the case, did you/they bleed the air out using the bleed screw near the battery ? Do you hear water sloshing noise just at the point of starting? Keep an eye on it probably fine
 
Thanks for your response.

Yes they did bleed by the battery because there is coolant around that valve. I have checked and it is tight.


Yes I do hear water sloshing around, is that a good sign?
 
Thanks for that. To be fair I only heard that on day 1 and I haven't driven it since as it is my wife's car.

Can I just undo that bleed screw or are there multiple things to bleed it?

I read about running it up to temperature with the coolant cap off to let it bubble out, is that wise?


Thanks a lot
 
Thanks for that. To be fair I only heard that on day 1 and I haven't driven it since as it is my wife's car.

Can I just undo that bleed screw or are there multiple things to bleed it?

I read about running it up to temperature with the coolant cap off to let it bubble out, is that wise?


Thanks a lot

What volume have you added?

Likelyhood is that its just self.bleeding

But if you are adding 500ml each time.. youve got a leak..

Shame garage didnt do a better job of it :eek:
 
Run the engine, take the bleed screw right out, top up coolant until it starts to come out of the bleed screw hole. Replace bleed screw, put the heater on hot and give it some throttle, that will push the coolant round and air out of the filler cap hole. Replace the cap, let the pressure build a bit, release the cap gently and slowly and you will see the bubbles appear. Eventually all the air will be expelled.
 
Run the engine, take the bleed screw right out, top up coolant until it starts to come out of the bleed screw hole.

Replace bleed screw, put the heater on hot and give it some throttle, that will push the coolant round and air out of the filler cap hole. Replace the cap, let the pressure build a bit, release the cap gently and slowly and you will see the bubbles appear.

The 500 is obviously quite different to my 04 panda..
That method wouldnt work on a 16v either :eek:
 
The 500 is obviously quite different to my 04 panda..
That method wouldnt work on a 16v either :eek:

There are various ways of achieving the desired outcome, none of which seem to be totally repeatable or guaranteed to get all the air out first time.

One point of note is that, unlike most cars, these Fiat's don't have a water control valve in the heater circuit. Water circulates continuously through the heat exchanger in the heater box; cabin heat is controlled by flaps which vary the flow of air, not valves which vary the flow of water. So the position of the heater controls maked no difference whatsoever to the bleeding procedure and isn't relevant. (But to get unrestricted flow through the heater circuit on most other cars, you do need to turn the heater to max to fully open the water control valve).

It's hard to get a good bleed when the thermostat is closed; there's a one way valve in the thermostat for this purpose, but it's tiny and doesn't work very well.

Part of the problem is that bleeding works best when the coolant isn't circulating, the thermostat is fully open and the system is at operating pressure. This means carrying out the procedure when the engine is stopped, fully warm, and all caps are securely in place. You then, carefully and very slightly, open a bleed at the highest point in the system (the heater hose on the 500/Panda) and let the overpressure push the air out.

The risk of scalding yourself is significant, so don't try this at home unless you know exactly what you're doing.

It's vital not to unscrew the bleed to the point where the pressure blows it out or you'll spray scalding water all over the engine compartment and probably yourself.

Normal mortals are best off just keeping the reservoir topped up to the maximium and letting the system stabilise over a few hot/cold engine cycles. If it won't stabilise, you've got a leak and this requires urgent attention.

I'll share a little secret with you all, If you need to work on the cooling system, to change a water pump or thermostat for example, first check the level is normal. Then syphon the coolant into a clean container* and either put it back when you've finished, or replace it with an identical volume of fresh coolant. That way, you'll know exactly how much coolant you need to get back into the system.

*On those 500's with the expansion tank at the side of the radiator, you can get just as much coolant out by syphoning as you can get by removing the bottom hose.
 
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Thanks all, much appreciated.

It went down again today but slightly less than before.

I did notice coolant around the bleed valve by the battery and I was able to tighten the serrated part of it with my fingers.

If this bleed valve was open slightly would that account for loss of coolant, would it vent off as there isn't much coolant lying around that area?

Also to tighten that bleed valve are you supposed to use a screwdriver on the centre part or turn the toothed part?

Thanks

Paul
 
I always give it about quarter of a turn with a screwdriver once it’s been done up by hand. Be careful though, someone on here reported breaking it. Take it out when cold and make sure it’s not cross threaded. If it’s not in properly it will lose coolant, albeit slowly.
 
Thanks for that.

Do you think it could account for dropping from max in a day, bearing in mind that my wife commutes only around 15 miles each way?

I still think it is air trapped as I have heard that sloshing a couple of times now.

Booked back in on Monday.

I had an MG before this so very paranoid about coolant!
 
Thanks for that.



Do you think it could account for dropping from max in a day, bearing in mind that my wife commutes only around 15 miles each way?



I still think it is air trapped as I have heard that sloshing a couple of times now.



Booked back in on Monday.



I had an MG before this so very paranoid about coolant!



You need to be paranoid about coolant with these engines too. They run for ever if maintained but are very sensitive to lack of oil and/or coolant.

It’s most likely air trapped which will eventually escape with normal driving. Accelerating pushes the water round to allow the air to escape, it doesn’t hurt every now and then when the engine is warm to gently release the pressure cap. That encourages the air to expel. It would obviously lose more from an ill fitting bleed screw under pressure so that needs to be reasonably firmly tight.
 
Cheers guys.

I hope I have solved it.

That bleed valve was still covered in coolant which I thought was odd after 3 days and the heat off the pipes. I tightened it up and dried around it. Ran it up to temperature and it remained dry.

Think the garage hadn't tightened it properly and it was just steaming off.

See how we go!
 
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