Hi, Maybe a stupid question but I don't have much experience with old cars and replacing parts. I just got my Punto back from the mechanic (who we use a lot and is very trustworthy and thorough) He'd replaced our clutch which was really heavy. For the most part it's fine but when I push it right down to the floor it doesn't come back up again, I have to hook my foot under it and pull it up. I only noticed when I was almost home and didn't want to drive all the way back. It's driving just fine if I only push it down as far as I need to get it into gear. Is this normal with a new clutch and will it resolve?
Technical Clutch sticking to floor
- Thread starter SnowPunto
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Clutch sticking to floor
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2008
- Messages
- 16,742
- Points
- 3,187
Not at all....
New clutch should be very very light
Pedal should be smooth and follow back easily
You may find its vague on biting point till it beds in a little
But you show symptoms of a knackered clutch or knackered slave cylinder
Ziggy
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2013
- Messages
- 6,122
- Points
- 1,228
he probably didnt bleed it
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2008
- Messages
- 16,742
- Points
- 3,187
Never bled a punto clutch.... as i just bolt it to the battery tray holes to stop it been in way....
Unless he replaced slave....
Ziggy
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2013
- Messages
- 6,122
- Points
- 1,228
only reason for pedal to stay at the bottom and not come back is air inside or bad slave cylinder
got enough brake fluid?
I wonder if the pivot arm at the box is going to places it hasn't been for some time and getting stuck?
Have a look at what's going on down there while your assistant does the pedal work.
A bit of lubrication might change things ?
Have a look at what's going on down there while your assistant does the pedal work.
A bit of lubrication might change things ?
My boy has been having problems with a "funny" feeling clutch pedal on his 2012 1.4 8valve. The pedal is quite near the floor when the clutch bites. I decided a good place to start would be to try bleeding the system. I pumped the pedal a few times (actually got my wife to pump the pedal) then got her to hold it down whilst I opened the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Got a nice solid stream of fluid with no air bubbles so probably not the problem but when I told her to let the pedal back up it wouldn't! It stayed on the floor! A small "tug" on the pedal and it snapped back up again! Further investigation revealed there is a helper spring on the pedal which I presume, like the one on my 1.9tdi SEAT Cordoba, reduces the pedal effort required to fully depress the pedal. It relies on the clutch return springs pressing back, in reverse, on the slave cylinder, to get it back up off the floor. Once it's returned by about a third of the stroke length it can recover the rest of the way under the influence of its weaker return spring. Unfortunately this didn't sort his problem so I think it needs a clutch!
Could be that if you're earlier model has this "helper spring" set up it might be something to do with this? Although if it was working ok before the clutch was changed and all your mechanic did was to unbolt the slave cylinder and tie it up out of the way whilst he worked then it shouldn't be a factor. Maybe something is wrong with the hydraulics though because, as Ziggy 122 says, the new clutch will feel much lighter so will not be pushing back against the pedal so hard as the old one did. This is because the diaphragm spring is being held with its fingers much straighter by the new "thick" unworn lining on the driven plate. As the lining wears down the diaphragm adopts a more dished shape and becomes harder to compress so making the pedal heavier to operate.
Looking like you need to revisit the chap who put the clutch in for you as, if you fiddle with it too much yourself, he/she? might use that as an excuse to disown the problem. Hope it all gets resolved easily and cheaply? Good luck. Do let us know what it turns out to be won't you? Regards Jock.
Could be that if you're earlier model has this "helper spring" set up it might be something to do with this? Although if it was working ok before the clutch was changed and all your mechanic did was to unbolt the slave cylinder and tie it up out of the way whilst he worked then it shouldn't be a factor. Maybe something is wrong with the hydraulics though because, as Ziggy 122 says, the new clutch will feel much lighter so will not be pushing back against the pedal so hard as the old one did. This is because the diaphragm spring is being held with its fingers much straighter by the new "thick" unworn lining on the driven plate. As the lining wears down the diaphragm adopts a more dished shape and becomes harder to compress so making the pedal heavier to operate.
Looking like you need to revisit the chap who put the clutch in for you as, if you fiddle with it too much yourself, he/she? might use that as an excuse to disown the problem. Hope it all gets resolved easily and cheaply? Good luck. Do let us know what it turns out to be won't you? Regards Jock.
