Clutch Change: Uno 999 carbed

OK, recently a friend and I took the gearbox out of an Uno 45... here's my tips ;)

  • Undo driveshaft nuts with assistant standing on the brake pedal
  • Take off wheels, support car on axle stands placed under control arm rear mountings
  • Undo 2x strut lower bolts, both sides
  • Take off brake caliper (sliding wedges)
  • Wind the steering towards the side being worked on. Flop the steering knuckle outwards (the part where the strut bolts on comes towards you). It should now be possible to push the driveshaft out of the hub and remove it - take care not to damage the seal on the wheel bearing. There is no need to remove the lower balljoint. You may need to remove the steering balljoint - but I didn't.
  • Unbolt the RH driveshaft boot mounting plate (three 10mm bolts)
  • Cut the clamp/cable tie for the LH driveshaft boot
  • Remember that you forgot to drain the gearbox oil as it begins to spew forth
  • Remove both driveshafts. Once the boots are off, the shafts just slide out of the diff.
  • Unbolt the starter motor - sparky-spark
  • Disconnect the battery that should have been disconnected at the beginning!
  • Unbolt the tin plate behind the flywheel, under the gearbox
  • Support the engine sump on a large block of wood, on a trolley jack (jack not available? You ARE using axle stands, aren't you?)
  • Unbolt the front and rear gearbox mountings
  • Pry off the two gearchange rod balljoints. Remove the clip that secures one of the links to the gearbox
  • Unbolt the four large 19mm bolts holding gearbox to engine
  • Remember the earth lead connected to the gearbox...
  • Remove gearbox
Refitting is a reversal of removal (but you get to swear in different places).

Note that although you can remove the gearbox with the RH driveshaft left in place, it is much harder to refit! It is also possible to remove the gearbox with both driveshafts attached, but again this is very difficult to refit because you have to thread the driveshafts through the suspension at the wrong angles.

It's much easier to refit the gearbox without driveshafts, then put them in separately. The extra time spent unbolting/rebolting the struts is much easier time than trying to line up the driveshaft while an assistant holds the weight of the gearbox, etc.

I used to think that taking off a gearbox was a huge task, but it's really only an hour's work. Allow yourself four hours for the whole job, and you should be fine.

Hope it goes well!

-Alex
 
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middler

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Dec 27, 2007
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so u dont have to remove the engine?
 
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Louie Bee

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so u don’t have to remove the engine?
I may be a bit late here but No the engine can stay in.. You’ll need to support its weight as 2 of the 3 mounts are on the gearbox side :)

I'm planning on doing my first clutch this week end :D.
 
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somyunguy

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Aug 16, 2013
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Port Elizabeth
Though this may be somewhat late :-
I have an 1108 carbed and i have done the clutch twice since 97. Both occassions i have removed the engine to do the job and it's a breeze compared!
I'v done it by - removing the starter which you have to do anyway, the alternator, crank pulley and front engine mount, both on the engine and the body.
Obviously, the galavnised flywheel cover plate below the engine and also the exhaust header and radiator pipes after draining the system.
The engine is then lifted with a chainblock and slid off the fixed gearbox stud at which point it just clears the rhs chassis member and then can be lifted clear.
The advantages to all this, you get a good look at your welsh plugs, which may be a plot to replace while you're at it.
Alignment of the clutch assembly is effortless and if you align the engine carefully when you drop it back in , it slides into place effortlessly.
No thuban all over the place, no heavy box to try to lift onto the spigot shaft thus upsetting the clutch alignment, no fighting with drive shafts etc.
With the exception of the exhaust manifold everything is done from the top.
 

Chamitri

New member
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
63
Hi.,
After 11 yrs I'm having a question. Does Clutch slave cylinder needs to remove in this job? I'm planning to replace the clutch recently and finding info. Links relate to hynes missing parts of the manuals are not working now.
Thanks
 

Lucianofiat

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Joined
Jan 30, 2011
Messages
2
Talking from experience from my Uno 1100 Mia, the clutch slave cylinder can stay on. Just disconnect the fluid pipe entering the slave cylinder and place a empty plastic cup underneath to catch weepings of brake fluid. :)
 
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