Technical Clicking from front wheel 1.2

[DaveMcT]

Mrs Dave's 1.2 has been making an annoying click from the front wheel especially over shallow pothole type surfaces. It's had new discs and pads (nicely bedded in) and recently passed an MOT. So what could it be?

I pulled the brakes apart greased the slider and put some beer pack card under the brake pad ears (pads are really quite loose). No change. Pulled off the drop link to check the ball joints both are stiff so hardly likely culprits. I had an old link used but no signs of wear so fitted that. The click is gone.

Moral - When the front is clicking / rattling, check the brakes (its always good to check the brakes) but swap the drop link for a known good one and get a new pair on order.

 

[koalar]

Thats exactly what happens when the droplinks haven't been tightened enough and the ball joint head is knock about in the anti roll bar hole

 

[apronto]

Thats exactly what happens when the droplinks haven't been tightened enough and the ball joint head is knock about in the anti roll bar hole

check the weights on the wheels.(fitted when wheel was balaced with new tyres) mine clicked as they were loose.

 

[DaveMcT]

I did not think of the wheel weights but the rattle was so loud I think they are unlikely. I will check. Thanks for the idea.

The drop link nuts were tight - very tight. Thankfully the hex sockets were not rusted and I got the nuts off. I swapped it for a used spare saved from when I replaced the front struts. The noise has stopped but I'll need to get a new drop link.

 

[irc]

My current runabout (1.3 MJ) has an annoying click from both front dampers (which were replaced about 1500 miles ago for the previous owner by their local garage at a fairly extortionate price). Sadly, they used cheap replacement buffers (bump-stop/gaiter combo), which have lost their grip and now bounce whenever the car hits a bump. I suspect the dampers are also no-name cheapest available parts too.
Top mounts and lower arms were not replaced either, so hard to see what the thick end of £500 went on...
But they did fit one new drop link.
Quality!

 

[DaveMcT]

Slide the front bump stops down the strut legs and apply a dab of silicone sealer (PU body mastic would be better) to the top of the piston rod. The bump stop should now stick at the top. Get new ones when those kacky struts have to be replaced.

A decent pair of spring compressors are not silly money but avoid anything made with long nuts and threaded bar.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Mrs Dave's 1.2 has been making an annoying click from the front wheel especially over shallow pothole type surfaces. It's had new discs and pads (nicely bedded in) and recently passed an MOT. So what could it be?

I pulled the brakes apart greased the slider and put some beer pack card under the brake pad ears (pads are really quite loose). No change. Pulled off the drop link to check the ball joints both are stiff so hardly likely culprits. I had an old link used but no signs of wear so fitted that. The click is gone.

Moral - When the front is clicking / rattling, check the brakes (its always good to check the brakes) but swap the drop link for a known good one and get a new pair on order.

S4P charged just £17 for a pairlast week

 

[The Panda Nut]

My current runabout (1.3 MJ) has an annoying click from both front dampers (which were replaced about 1500 miles ago for the previous owner by their local garage at a fairly extortionate price). Sadly, they used cheap replacement buffers (bump-stop/gaiter combo), which have lost their grip and now bounce whenever the car hits a bump. I suspect the dampers are also no-name cheapest available parts too.
Top mounts and lower arms were not replaced either, so hard to see what the thick end of £500 went on...
But they did fit one new drop link.
Quality!

Labour. Even my local man is now £60 an hour plus the Vat of course.That racks up awfully quickly.
If you pay for labour , FIT THE BEST QUALITY PARTS! Pay once!

 

[jrkitching]

S4P charged just £17 for a pairlast week

I put a new pair of these on mine last summer.

Just about the easiest job there is on the whole car, and there's no need to align anything afterwards. Even if the nuts have seized solid, you've got good access for a metal cutting disc which will have them off in seconds. And the S4P ones come with new locknuts included for that £17 a pair!

Hint: it helps to have a second jack under the lower suspension arm to line up the holes when fitting the replacement.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I put a new pair of these on mine last summer.

Just about the easiest job there is on the whole car, and there's no need to align anything afterwards. Even if the nuts have seized solid, you've got good access for a metal cutting disc which will have them off in seconds. And the S4P ones come with nuts included for that £17 a pair!

Hint: it helps to have a second jack under the lower wishbone to line up the holes when fitting the replacement.

Rachel did hers under guidance in about an hour yesterday. Her first car job!

 

[jrkitching]

Rachel did hers under guidance in about an hour yesterday. Her first car job!

That's the thick end of £100 saved!

The economics of running an older car are all about how much you can do for yourself.

 

[irc]

Labour. Even my local man is now £60 an hour plus the Vat of course.That racks up awfully quickly.
If you pay for labour , FIT THE BEST QUALITY PARTS! Pay once!

The (nearly) £500 was for parts only. Labour was on top of that. They really sheared the previous owner, who sold it cheaply because even after the big bill it still wasn't right.

For that sort of money I would have expected:
a pair of drop links, (just got one)
good dampers with matching buffers, (!)
springs, (very crusty, I would have changed them)
top mounts, (one has a rough bearing)
bottom arms, (needs both)
discs, pads, (needs both)
and possibly wheel bearings. (Both noisy)
And correct new bolts all round. (Old ones re-used except one pinch bolt which appears to be a standard unshouldered bolt and Nyloc nut)

Did get copious amount of copaslip on things that probably shouldn't have though, so at least it should all unbolt fairly easily.

Oh, and one caliper seems to stick occasionally. Might free up, but will probably replace as I have a pair I rebuilt on the shelf.

Going to do it properly myself when there's some dry weather.

 

[The Panda Nut]

That's the thick end of £100 saved!

The economics of running an older car are all about how much you can do for yourself.

Just as well it cost me that for the other daughters rear pads and caliper!

 

[Yolanda]

Slide the front bump stops down the strut legs and apply a dab of silicone sealer (PU body mastic would be better) to the top of the piston rod. The bump stop should now stick at the top. Get new ones when those kacky struts have to be replaced.

A decent pair of spring compressors are not silly money but avoid anything made with long nuts and threaded bar.

Why not I've used that type for years.

 

[irc]

The (nearly) £500 was for parts only. Labour was on top of that. They really sheared the previous owner, who sold it cheaply because even after the big bill it still wasn't right.

For that sort of money I would have expected:
a pair of drop links, (just got one)
good dampers with matching buffers, (!)
springs, (very crusty, I would have changed them)
top mounts, (one has a rough bearing)
bottom arms, (needs both)
discs, pads, (needs both)
and possibly wheel bearings. (Both noisy)
And correct new bolts all round. (Old ones re-used except one pinch bolt which appears to be a standard unshouldered bolt and Nyloc nut)

Did get copious amount of copaslip on things that probably shouldn't have though, so at least it should all unbolt fairly easily.

Oh, and one caliper seems to stick occasionally. Might free up, but will probably replace as I have a pair I rebuilt on the shelf.

Going to do it properly myself when there's some dry weather.

It gets worse...
Was dry this morning so decided to clean up threads and apply PlusGas ready for when I start on it.
Passenger wheel off.
Drop link hex totally rounded (this is the new one!)
Oh well, was intending to fit a new pair anyway.
Start brushing threads on damper bolts. Top one looks too small... check nut - 13mm. Should be 17mm.
Check bolt. Head is 10mm. Bolt is shouldered but should be M10, not M8. Could explain some of the rattling noise.
Decided to swap the undersized bolt on safety grounds.
(Angle of photo not great, but nut size difference visible).
I think they may also have Overtightened the proper bolt, as I couldn't shift it at all, but at least it is the correct bolt. And nut.
Quality work.

 

[koalar]

I am lost with the sizes

The two bottom strut bolts are

M12 x 1.5

The nut and bolt heads are different sizes normally 17mm and 15mm

Nothing should be M10

Maybe I am looking at something wrong|

 

[irc]

I am lost with the sizes

The two bottom strut bolts are

M12 x 1.5

The nut and bolt heads are different sizes normally 17mm and 15mm

Nothing should be M10

Maybe I am looking at something wrong|

Proper bolt definitely shouldered M10, 15mm head, with shouldered nut 17mm head. Lower bolt was this spec.
Incorrect upper bolt was m8 with 10mm head, appears to be standard 8.8. Fitted with standard Nyloc nut.
Comparison below.

 

[koalar]

Yep one on the right looks original

I must have faulty memory

Good chance it's been running on the wrong camber

 

[irc]

I've only been using it for local trips, at slow speeds, and it did feel a bit "loose", but not enough to be too concerned about...
...until last night when I had to avoid a fallen tree. Missed it, but felt that I should have missed it by more, so decided to get it ready for front suspension refresh this morning.
Didn't like what I saw on the passenger side. Drivers side was slightly better (well, at least the bolts were the right size), but I now have zero confidence in ALL of the work done by previous owners local garage, so I'll change the lot and then recycle any good bits.
I'll use the "spare" Panda until it's done, as it's started raining and I'm having to do it outside.
Good job it was cheap!