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Seicento Chalky, 1.4 16v ITB Seicento.

Introduction

I don't know if you guys remember but back in january I was starting a project that involved me swapping the piston rods from 8v ones to the 16v ones, fitting a 1.4 8v grande inlet manifold, and a spicy CB cam :D.

Well that got thrown out, and I promised you I would still do a project.

I Delivered:

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The donor engine was removed from a 2003 fiat stilo 1.2 16v with only 28k on the clock.

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I got the engine home, stripped it down and painted it pretty much straight away (getting quite high in the garage during the winter :D).

Re-assembled with pistons soaking on oil for the next several months.

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The next thing that was on the "to-do" list was chassis tweeks and upgrades.

So off came all the brake lines (They were definately on their way out, so it should be on everyones checklist. Please I do advise this), radius arms, rear beam, petrol tank, handbrake cable, wishbones, front uprights, front calipers. I took everything off so that it was just a shell with windows, steering wheel and seats.

Brakelines were all replaced with 3/16 cooper nickel and shiny stainless fittings, finished off with some nice goodridge braided lines.

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Rear beam was tidied up, painted and refitted for the new lines to be correctly routed.

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Whilst I was doing the brake lines the radius arms were also being tidied up and painted, along with anti roll bar, uprights, and my front upper strut brace.

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Then came a nice delivery of my marea rear calipers to go with my PGT front, they got stripped down and wirebrushed right back to the shiny stuff :D. (see the before and after)

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Then got a lick of paint again.

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A little while went by then a nice postman came again with my fresh polski produce

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A few days later another box came from good ole gazzella.

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Then my mount plates arrived from Signwerx so I finally got arond to refitting all my back end.

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Trial fitted my wheel with the 10mm spacers from the front, Discovred that i'm in need of 15mm at the back due to rubbing on the radius arm :bang:.

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And same day I got bored and re-fitted the front too. All finished off by my custom Gaz coilovers on the front, and custom Gaz dampers on the rear (Need a coil chopping out on the rear mind just so the car is nice and level).

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The bushes were noticeably stiffer even off the floor, no give or flex in the material at all. I theory with some decent tyres this car should stick to the floor nicely (y).

nother payday was coming up so the head got some attention in the form of a dremel, dividers were thinnned down, ridges ground out, drill marks were ground out and smoothed, and to finish off. Hand sanded all off it smooth with good ole 80 grit for the inlet, and outlet was smoothed out finer and spent a few hours polishing till bling bling :cool:.

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Valve hole on the right shows what it was before grinding, left shows part way through grinding.

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Never got any photo's from that night of finishing it off but It will improve flow no end (I hope :rolleyes:).

Next day it went to my local machine shop to have a couple of new guides fitted, skim, and reseat with new seals.

Inlet:
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Exhaust:
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A trip to another fairly local machine shop resulted in:

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1.8KG taken off the stilo flywheel, balanced with the clutch (happy days :D)

Got home that night and decided to make a hesitant start on re-fitting the head :cry:.

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I've never poo'ed myself so much tightening bolts up.

Was all fitted without so much as a sqeak (followed adived and gently wiped engine oil on the bolts).

So happy after that I then fitted my manifold and oil filter.

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Then began painting my head and fitted it next day along with water pump pipe from the old engine (new seal, again advise checking quite oftenly).

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Timed up and ready to go in :D

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Then postman came again (y). Hello drilled and grooved.

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That Weekend came, so did my friends brother (whom I owe a drink (y)) and something magical happened in a few hours.

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We did manage to break my new crank sensor in the process mind :bang:.

Sexy ;)
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Then I struggled a little for and inlet manifold but then I managed to source one from a fiat breaker then along came Kritip to help me with the wiring (thanks again bud (y)). Spent the last few days finishing that off and last night it fired up for the first time in 5 months.

Made some awesome bangs before hand though due to us having the coils wired backwards (oops), quick swap of the leads and it fired up first time (y).

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All that is left to do now is get myself a set of new tyres, get over to custom chrome in the morn and get my new front exhaust section made (yes we started the car up without and exhaust, sounded nice and loud :tempt:) Cov69, and kritip both were witnesses to the start up :D. Thanks again guys for your help.

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Ohh before I forget, here some pic's of the new wiring for the battery, starter, and alternator:


Hint, it's the big thick one without the fuse on it :D.
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Here's where i'm up to, i'll update this soon :D.
I have a feeling that the thermostat hasn't sealed properly. I'm using the tjet stat and that opens up early at 88 degrees, and set the fan on the omex to kick in at 90 degrees and to continue cooling until 85 dgrees has been reached.

id change that.

I have mine set at 85ish with a 1degree hysteresis.

the fans can stay on for a good few mins in hot weather so dread to think how long it would take your fans to turn off when trying to drop the temp by 5degrees.

it will be fighting against the thermostat also.

AND having the engine temps fluctuate 5degrees wont be good for it... you need it to stay as constant as possible (hence why all modern cars and even your sei has the ecu control the fans rather then the rad switch)
 
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Reactions: Dan
Bonnet bra and door handles look good ;)

Love the wheels, SELL THEM TO ME.
not sure on the rearlights though, look a bit weird compared to how euro and flush the rest of the car looks...

Maybe try splitting open the lexarse lights and spraying all of the chrome black, then a light tint on the glass?
 
One problem after another with this thing.

Secondary butterfly holes blanked up so now throttle response is on it :D. Downside I have somehow made my throttle want to stick more, so now i'm trying to find a method of fixing that. So far I have thought about replacing all the springs with the ZX10R ones (seem a bit bigger and slightly more heavy duty).

My theory is the butterfly isn't returning properly because these ITB's were only designed for a 600cc bike, and i'm running them on a 1368cc so suction is considerably more. Thus the flowing air is holding the bodies open and not allowing it to return.

Second method I have considered is fitting a spring onto the back of the pedal to the pedal box that will force the wholse thing to return.

Oh and coolant issue has been found, the manifold wasn't sealing properly and also there was a split in the hose for the manifold.

Thanks

X
 
it wont be a problem with to much vacume. if you look at how butterfly's work there with be half the vac trying to suck the valve open while the other side it been sucked shut. that means its canceled out and it purely shut by the spring.

flat slide bodies are a different matter as a lot of suction will cause more friction on the slide sealing area... i know as i had a large flat slide on my supermoto that even after rebuilding the carb with new parts and expensive teflon slide would still stick open a little unless the throttle was snapped shut.


I think your problem is the fact that the bike had a smooth running throttle and a throttle cable about 8inches long.

while you have a heavy throttle peddle (been pulled down by gravity) a 5foot (and maybe XXyears old cable)

Id say fit a spring on the throttle peddle and see if that helps. if not then ALSO fit another spring on the throttle body side.
 
It's a new cable and outer linear sleeve so the cable is nice and free.

I think it's suction because the problem can't be recreated with the engine off, it just snaps shut as it should.

Going to try a spring on the pedal first but not until next week now as I just want a break from working on the car :D.

Thanks

X
 
Car was on the road for 2 weeks, it's now back off until next year. This is mainly due to funding as i'm completely dry in terms of the imaginary money well.

The engine is going to be stripped back down again over this period and coreplugs replaced and also fit a new head gasket (don't want to take any chances with this). The constant water loss was due to a dead coreplug behind the flywheel DOH!!.

I'm going to repaint things whilst I have it all aprt, also going to be doing another valver conversion and chassis rebuild on shoebox (pirus' sei). I should start up my own garage at home doing these conversions for people :D.

Tried to start her up today to get some oil moving and to take her round the block to un stick the brakes, only to find..... Fuel pump has crapped out and is kicking in but not creating any pressure. That will need replacing now aswell. Wonder if i can retrofit the ZX6R fuel pump in :confused:.

Anyway until I have finished pirus' sei, there won't be any updates on chalky because I won't be able to work on her (n):cry::( :D.

Thanks

X
 
I should start up my own garage at home doing these conversions for people :D.
LOL, don't say that, you'll be inlandated with messages. Although i gotta say i probably would be interested myself, always fancied a 16v but just can't be bothered to make one
 
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