Technical Car won’t start, no ignition circuit?

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Technical Car won’t start, no ignition circuit?

alandrill

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Hi everyone.
Our 2008 500 won’t start. Went to shops, came out and nothing happens when ignition key is turned.
I’ve run additional earth straps without any success. Had a previous issue with earth strap corrosion.
When I open the door and shut it, the instrument cluster shows the time and mileage for a few seconds. Turning the key blanks it. Interior Light comes on too. Indicators flash when ignition key buttons are pushed.
The battery is fully charged.
If I connect our fault code reader it indicates that the ignition needs to be on to read system which is the problem 🤷
We love our little car and would
Like to bring it back to life.
Does anyone have any suggestions what the problem might be.?
Thank you in advance, Alan
 

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Hi,
You state battery fully charged.
Having No idea of battery age I suggest could be dead battery.
Try jump starting from another vehicle taking all precautions again damage.
Good luck
J
 
A battery swap is simple on a 500


Drive a car to it, swap batteries

Does the warm car start on the 500 battery? Big clue

Now try the 500..

My thought is..
Why does it light the dash briefly..
Is that all the battery can muster..?

Cold temps stifle any battery 😉
 
Last edited:
I took my other car up and tried to start it connected w jump leads. No joy.
With the ignition off I could put on side lights and rear lights came on.
I will try a new battery tomorrow but I feel it’s the ignition circuit for some reason.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks again
 
Been reading up on YouTube and the symptoms sound similar to cracked tailgate wiring issues. Has anyone knowledge of this?
 
Update, haven’t been well so only back to car today. Battery pretty flat but the issue is the 20A maxi blade fuse has burnt out.
F03 I think in the engine compartment, still
To work out why it would have fused?
Battery on charge and fuse just bought.
Update more later
 
Fully charged battery fitted, replacing fuse has ignition circuit and instrument cluster back to normal.
Turning ignition gives the solenoid/stater click and no turnover. Jump
Leads added from my Mini and still a click only.
There were a couple
Of exposed wires in tailgate which I insulated but I imagine these were just co-incidental.
I imagine a new solenoid required but do you think a failing solenoid could have caused the fuse to blow?
Thanks
 
A battery swap is simple on a 500


Drive a car to it, swap batteries

Does the warm car start on the 500 battery? Big clue

Now try the 500..

My thought is..
Why does it light the dash briefly..
Is that all the battery can muster..?

Cold temps stifle any battery 😉

Has any of this been tried?

Something obviously caused the fuse to blow..
 
Agreed!
Battery swap to check first!( old one may have lost its cold cranking ability!) then if solenoid still clicks and you have right voltage and amperage then as you say solenoid fault or maybe a stuck /faulty starter motor!.
As both of these create a heavy drain then its possible that they are the cause of the blown fuse!.

Also JUST to say again HAVE YOU CHECKED? the famous earth strap!!!??? as if the strap is broken or de-graded in some way then the curcuit wont complete properly thus insufficent currant flow and clicking from solenoid which isnt getting the power it needs!.
hope this helps.
 
Are all your auxillaries turning free. Had a similar thing on one of my Brava's years ago. Turned out to be a seized alternator that kept the complete engine from turning over. What helped (temporarily) was putting it in gear and rocking the car back and forth.
Although a battery shorting internally or earthstrap sounds also possible.

gr J
 
Ignition switch.

When you turn the switch to its first position (MAR), the oil pressure and battery warning lights should illuminate, plus some others. I could not see any in the vid.

Need to remove the cowl from around the column, and check the power into the switch, and out of each wire as the key is turned. There's some output in the start position, as that cuts the display. Lots of circuits are cut during starting, to reduce any demands when the starter needs lots.
 
Earth strap was first thing checked.
Can put the car in 4th gear , rock car and move it so nothing seized.
Going to check the starter relay next and then a new battery though it had very good jump leads attached to running engine.
 
Earth strap was first thing checked.
Can put the car in 4th gear , rock car and move it so nothing seized.
Going to check the starter relay next and then a new battery though it had very good jump leads attached to running engine.
A completely "dead" battery will stifle a running cars battery.. That's why I suggested the battery swap

If your 500's battery starts the Donor car.. You can rule that out 👍
 
Apologies to all for slow reply but snow and distance and ill health prevented further investigation.
The 20amp ignition circuit mega fuse replacement led to the instrument cluster working again.
Started the car with a tow and it drove just fine. Got it on a ramp and starter motor seized, a few dodgy wires here , tidied it all up, new starter and everything started up fine.
I’m assuming my daughter cranking ( trying to crank at least) the seized starter motor blew the fuse . Battery is holding charge and starting car without any trouble.
Black Betty lives once more.
 
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