AndrewHarvey
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Thank you
Hopefully my take on a 500 will put a smile on your face!
Hopefully my take on a 500 will put a smile on your face!
Tuning Canterbury 695
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Tuning Canterbury 695
AndrewHarvey
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So four speeder removed and new five speeder fitted.
Filled with special oil and I have the engine back in and the bolts that hold the support bracket back in.......at this rate I will have to start it soon!!!
I have bought some lovely period bits whilst laid up.
A Halda Rallymaster and two sets of period rally timers - one set Omega -one Heuer set.
Also fell in love with the Notek Blue centered spot lights from the 1960's and now have a box full - that I'm converting to LED before selling all the excess ones on.
Filled with special oil and I have the engine back in and the bolts that hold the support bracket back in.......at this rate I will have to start it soon!!!
I have bought some lovely period bits whilst laid up.
A Halda Rallymaster and two sets of period rally timers - one set Omega -one Heuer set.
Also fell in love with the Notek Blue centered spot lights from the 1960's and now have a box full - that I'm converting to LED before selling all the excess ones on.
AndrewHarvey
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Also shortened the gear change linkage by 32mm - i took 16mm off of either end -I hope this was the right way to do it......
AndrewHarvey
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Completed putting the power train back in. Nearly ready to start ! It's been quite an adventure and very much looking forward to a blast in the beast.
AndrewHarvey
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My friends came over to help put my car in my garage whilst I recover
I had fitted my Borrani steel wheels with 145 tyres
The car has a low front Spring
They could not get any lock on the steering due to the near side tyre rubbing the wheel arch at the doorpost end
I know the tyres are overinflated at 32 psi BUT will this problem go when I reduce the pressure or does the wheel spacer / disc brake conversion mean I need skinny tyres at the front?
I had fitted my Borrani steel wheels with 145 tyres
The car has a low front Spring
They could not get any lock on the steering due to the near side tyre rubbing the wheel arch at the doorpost end
I know the tyres are overinflated at 32 psi BUT will this problem go when I reduce the pressure or does the wheel spacer / disc brake conversion mean I need skinny tyres at the front?
I have no experience of a car with those modifications Andrew, but I think that accurate front toe-in might help that problem. I have heard of people bashing that central flange in the wheelarch flat at the bottom.
Years ago I had an otherwise standard 500 with 135s that scuffed the inner on full lock...it made a nice shiny patch.
Years ago I had an otherwise standard 500 with 135s that scuffed the inner on full lock...it made a nice shiny patch.
AndrewHarvey
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I'm a little concerned because it's on the side that had accident / repair damage
I am planning on getting a friendly local garage to finish off the minor works, tracking,headlight beams and rear wheel bearing check
I just hope the car is not bent..... There is a different gap drivers side to passenger - but it has been in a thousand bits....
I am planning on getting a friendly local garage to finish off the minor works, tracking,headlight beams and rear wheel bearing check
I just hope the car is not bent..... There is a different gap drivers side to passenger - but it has been in a thousand bits....
Hi Andrew
With the flat spring and 165's I got mine to fit ok. I needed some minor fetling on the front arch on one side. I need to change back to 5 leaf as mine flipped up when driving, but that's for another thread.
You may need to make sure that the spring is fitted straight. With the spring separators and the rubber on the brackets it's possible for the spring to be angled as you do up the bolts on the brackets. This can result in one wheel being further back than the other.
cheers, Steve
With the flat spring and 165's I got mine to fit ok. I needed some minor fetling on the front arch on one side. I need to change back to 5 leaf as mine flipped up when driving, but that's for another thread.
You may need to make sure that the spring is fitted straight. With the spring separators and the rubber on the brackets it's possible for the spring to be angled as you do up the bolts on the brackets. This can result in one wheel being further back than the other.
cheers, Steve
the hobbler
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Andy;
I find it very interesting that you are having a problem with the n/s/f corner of your car as it is also the n/s/f of my car that is making me invoke my 'little grey cells'. The problem with my car is that the n/s wheelbase was about 3/16in shorter than the wheelbase of the o/s. When I mentioned this discrepancy to Tony Castle-Millar his comment was 'is that all?' It seems that on 500s where bigger wheels/tyres have been fitted it is quite common for the tyre to rub on the inner wheel-arch when on full lock. The ridge where the wing joins the inner wheel-arch can also give problems--I 're-aligned' my ridge (big welt with big hammer). If the front suspension is very low it can exacerbate the problem--I am fitting a new spring to RAISE the front so that I will have about 3/4in clearance between top of wheel and wheel-arch. I was very lucky and a local company that regularly works on classic cars, put mine on a jig and GENTLY tweaked it to reduce the wheel-base difference.
Depending on their design, fitting discs to the front can pull the front wheels in about 3mm per side as discs are generally thinner than the drums--a thin spacer might help on this.
A tyre pressure of 32psi is way too high, front tyre pressure should be 18-20psi. Correcting the pressure will VERY SIGHTLY reduce the diameter of the tyre, but not enough to cure your problem.
So, check the front wheel alignment, ensure that the front spring is fitting 'squarely' across the chassis and measure the wheel-base, both side, and compare them
I find it very interesting that you are having a problem with the n/s/f corner of your car as it is also the n/s/f of my car that is making me invoke my 'little grey cells'. The problem with my car is that the n/s wheelbase was about 3/16in shorter than the wheelbase of the o/s. When I mentioned this discrepancy to Tony Castle-Millar his comment was 'is that all?' It seems that on 500s where bigger wheels/tyres have been fitted it is quite common for the tyre to rub on the inner wheel-arch when on full lock. The ridge where the wing joins the inner wheel-arch can also give problems--I 're-aligned' my ridge (big welt with big hammer). If the front suspension is very low it can exacerbate the problem--I am fitting a new spring to RAISE the front so that I will have about 3/4in clearance between top of wheel and wheel-arch. I was very lucky and a local company that regularly works on classic cars, put mine on a jig and GENTLY tweaked it to reduce the wheel-base difference.
Depending on their design, fitting discs to the front can pull the front wheels in about 3mm per side as discs are generally thinner than the drums--a thin spacer might help on this.
A tyre pressure of 32psi is way too high, front tyre pressure should be 18-20psi. Correcting the pressure will VERY SIGHTLY reduce the diameter of the tyre, but not enough to cure your problem.
So, check the front wheel alignment, ensure that the front spring is fitting 'squarely' across the chassis and measure the wheel-base, both side, and compare them
AndrewHarvey
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Whilst waiting for a return to fitness I have been shopping for parts to complete the car
Have taken delivery of a original hinged opening hard top with headlining and an original works style roof vent to cut into it for the authentic rally look
Cannot decide what colour to paint the top
Old English white or Giannini white and black check...
Keeps my mind ticking along!!!
Have taken delivery of a original hinged opening hard top with headlining and an original works style roof vent to cut into it for the authentic rally look
Cannot decide what colour to paint the top
Old English white or Giannini white and black check...
Keeps my mind ticking along!!!
the hobbler
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Hi Andrew;
glad to hear that your recuperation is coming on apace. being that Giannini has black/white chequer in the badge, you obviously have to go for the same on the roof.
glad to hear that your recuperation is coming on apace. being that Giannini has black/white chequer in the badge, you obviously have to go for the same on the roof.
Hi Andrew, good to hear you are on the mend.
It's got to be Black/White check Giannini !!!!!!
Ian.
It's got to be Black/White check Giannini !!!!!!
Ian.
AndrewHarvey
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the hobbler
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First of all Andrew, how are you feeling these days? Well on the mend I hope.
Very neat boot lid, but the main point of having the boot lid open was NOT for cooling! Yes, it helped, but the main reason for an open boot lid is aerodynamic. This was done initially only on the 600 bodied variants (850 and 1000s) as Carlo Abarth found that a propped boot lid on the 1000tc variants added 6mph to the top speed! Think about it--it is an early boot-spoiler! Instead of having the whole of the rear body as your 'exit area' all you had was the trailing edge of the boot lid. I will admit that on most of the 500s, it is purely cosmetic (although on the Italian 700cc racing versions it most probably does help with top speed)
When the Fiat 850 was in prototype form, the treatment of the rear of the car was very similar to that of the 600, and top speed was found to be very little improved. When they redesigned it with the (now familiar) 'boot', top speed went up by about 5-6mph.
Don't you just love these little snippets of trivia?
Very neat boot lid, but the main point of having the boot lid open was NOT for cooling! Yes, it helped, but the main reason for an open boot lid is aerodynamic. This was done initially only on the 600 bodied variants (850 and 1000s) as Carlo Abarth found that a propped boot lid on the 1000tc variants added 6mph to the top speed! Think about it--it is an early boot-spoiler! Instead of having the whole of the rear body as your 'exit area' all you had was the trailing edge of the boot lid. I will admit that on most of the 500s, it is purely cosmetic (although on the Italian 700cc racing versions it most probably does help with top speed)
When the Fiat 850 was in prototype form, the treatment of the rear of the car was very similar to that of the 600, and top speed was found to be very little improved. When they redesigned it with the (now familiar) 'boot', top speed went up by about 5-6mph.
Don't you just love these little snippets of trivia?
AndrewHarvey
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Well thanks for that !
I unfortunately am back in for more treatment next week but heyho
The 600 lid looked very pretty and was rather like my works style Big Healys bonnet!
I may buy one and get the original one and the 600 painted to see what I think!
I unfortunately am back in for more treatment next week but heyho
The 600 lid looked very pretty and was rather like my works style Big Healys bonnet!
I may buy one and get the original one and the 600 painted to see what I think!
the hobbler
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Very sorry to hear that your health is still giving problems. If you are thinking of having a boot-lid as per Abarth, you still use a 500 boot lid, but hinge it from the top. The hinges to use are small ones available from Axel Gerstle (P/No:-23485). You will also need rubber 'holders' (P/No:-09053) and the boot props (P/No:- 23122). The props will most probably need a fair bit of 'fettling' to fit correctly. All these parts are listed under 'Tuning'
AndrewHarvey
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Hi
Does anyone know the size of the main battery cable
I need the diameter to organise battery master switch
Regards
Does anyone know the size of the main battery cable
I need the diameter to organise battery master switch
Regards
inner cable 5-6mm
outer insulation 9mm
outer insulation 9mm
Hi Andrew,
Not sure if this is what you want, but I fitted a Battery Isolator on my car (see pic) the green knob unscrews and the red cable (fused) supplies low power to clocks etc. The fuse ensures that the vehicle cannot be started with the knob removed. Try Ebay if you need the isolator. Hope that you are better soon.
Ian.
