Technical Broken exhaust manifold studs, best approach?

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Technical Broken exhaust manifold studs, best approach?

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Dec 19, 2023
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Hi all,

The two lower-right studs on my 2011 500's exhaust manifold has snapped. At least one of them is snapped too deeply to retrieve by welding a nut.

I am guessing in order to access them I am going to need to get the radiator out the way. Is there any way of doing this without draining the coolant circuit?

Cheers!
 
I had broken studs and in the end the only way i could get them out was to remove the front bumper & radiator completely! so i had clear access to the manifold to get a drill in there!.
I used a carbide drill and made sure to centre -punch the studs both carefully and deeply with a high quality impact punch!- you use the drill with LIGHT pressure and go very SLOWLY to allow it to bite properly you must be very careful to keep the drill centered and at the correct angle! make sure you mark the bit for the depth you want!
With one of mine i was lucky and once the hole was drilled a stud extractor removed the outer threads clean! the other however had to be drilled oversize and then "time-serted" back to standard!
If you are going to do this make sure to lube up all the other studs days in advance and remove them as well!-go careful you dont want to break anymore and they will be brittle now from all the heat cycles once all out and threads all good apply a little "ali-slip grease" to the threads .
You will need a new set of studs and nuts if you can get a set of stainless studs with copper nuts! ,dont forget you will also need a new manifold gasket and a torque wrench to complete the repairs!.
Its a bit of a mission job really ! but you really do have top strip all the front out to have proper access! probably not what you want to hear but have to be honest about it! if you try to take short cuts on this you WILL make things worse!
best of luck completing the work and let us know how you get on!.
PS whilst its all off have a check of the metal coolant pipe behind the manifold and catalist to check its condition if its rusty or past its best now is the best time to change it whilst you have access and the systems drained!
 
If you have ac( that works ) just move the condenser to one side as best you can don't remove any pipes.
Refilling the system the air bleed valve use a screwdriver to turn it don't try fingers just on the knurled outer or it very easily snaps off
Thanks John always forget about the air con thankfully there is room to move it out the way! cheers for the reminder! (y)
 
Update on this


All done, there was absolutely zero chance of me getting them out without the rad out the way so can forget that. Removed front half of front wheel arch liners, removed bumper, removed middle bumper crossmember, then drained coolant and removed rad and fan. That gave me sufficient space.

There were actually 3 broken studs. Two came off with the "drill a hole and hammer a torx bit in" trick. One had to have a nut welded to it. One of them had to be re-tapped but that was easy to do.

Removed the other non-broken studs by screwing my drill to it and winding them out (bad idea in hindsight as it knackered my chuck a bit, think there are tools specially for it but didn't have any to hand). Then 8x brand new studs with anti-seize on them.

Cheers!
 
Why does broken studs keep coming up?
In all my years never heard of it until here where it pops up every now and then, is there an inherent problem?
Could it be the gearbox bracket rusting away stressing the whole area if not replaced in time?
I guess the cat and entire exhaust to the rear would hang on the manifold bolts if that bracket wasn't present as the next hanger is at the rear on the central pipe?
 
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Why does broken studs keep coming up?
In all my years never heard of it until here where it pops up every now and then, is there an inherent problem?
Could it be the gearbox bracket rusting away stressing the whole area if not replaced in time?
I guess the cat and entire exhaust to the rear would hang on the manifold bolts if that bracket wasn't present as the next hanger is at the rear on the central pipe?
I think that's the reason.

Certainly if this bracket is broken or weakened it puts extra stress on this area, and this issue gets regularly reported on the forum. I'd recommend owners first check the security of this bracket when the car is four years old, and then every year thereafter. Fortunately, replacement is straightforward if caught early.

I wonder if the fast fit centres replace this bracket when changing an exhaust? If anyone has used one in the past, it could be a good idea to check this.

The same issue affects the Panda, but note the 60HP Pandas use a seemingly identical but different bracket, as the whole exhaust has a smaller external diameter. The Panda brackets are much harder to find, but you can use the 500 ones if you shim the inside and elongate the attachment hole. It's essential when refitting that the exhaust (technically it's on the cat) is held securely , or you too could be joining this thread!

I think your chances of extracting a complete set of exhaust manifold studs cleanly would be problematic on just about any older car; it's just that this issue means you're more likely to need to do this on the 500/Panda.

Thinking back to the old days, exhaust manifold nuts used to be made from a copper based material that didn't corrode; I suppose using steel nuts saves a few pence on the manufacturing cost,
 
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I think its more common than is generally known ! It certainly happened to mine (2012 car) guess its the heat up cool downcycle along with corrosion and stress fractures!.
Part of the problem is fiat probably spect a fairly cheep stud/.nut to keep costs down and profit up! you can get aftermarket sets made of stainless with copper nuts which is probably a good idea!
If a number of studs break the next thing to go is usually the manifold gasket with the noise and poor running quickly evident!
I agree that the support bracket is critical and should be checked when possible!.
 
In my case I think it was because the support to the transmission housing had rusted through. 1558869 and 12855053. Manifold has to come off to replace one of those parts.
 
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