Technical Bravo 1.9 multijet glow plug change

[Tom1902]

Hi. I have recently bought this car and wanting to change the glow plugs. I have found them behind this silver part (I don’t know what it is). They look hard to get to. Does anyone have a guide that may help. The one I found on here is for a different engine. I don’t what or how things need to come off before I can get to the plugs.

Thanks

 

[Davren]

Hi, Welcome to the forum.

The silver part is the inlet manifold. You don't need to remove it to get to the glow plugs, but they are very awkward to remove, and there is a real risk of breaking one or more of them. If that happens, it's likely that you would need to remove the cylinder head to extract the broken part(s).

Have you tested the glow plugs to confirm they need replacing?
.

 

[Tom1902]

Thanks

There’s a couple of small metal pipes that I wasn’t sure if they’d need moving.

I’ve explained what’s happening to a mechanic and he said to change the glow plugs as a start point.

The car turns over fine but when it’s cold or not started in a while it just turns over and doesn’t start.

Does this sound like a good place to start?

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi

Basics :
Do you wait for the GlowPlug light to go out before cranking the engine ?

How long is it lit before it goes out..??

There are a few simple Glowplug tests you can do

 

[Tom1902]

Yea the light goes out. Maybe takes around 5-10 seconds depending.

Im interested in the tests to do before I have a go at changing them. Could you tell me what they are or send a link of things to try please.

 

[varesecrazy]

Simplest :

Warm them Twice before cranking -

Turn on Ign. Wait for coil lamp to go out

Turn OFF then straight back on

When coil light goes out Then Crank


It should start easier.. as it potentially has more heat
Worth trying with 3 x warming cycles.. if unsure

If it improves.. you have a cold plug... But you should really have a flashing light ( once started) to signify a fault


Next test : dip the clutch.. it reduces the load on the starter motor

Does the engine start better?

If so... you could have a cranking RPM issue

Low speed means low fuel supply..

 

[bugsymike]

Simplest :

Warm them Twice before cranking -

Turn on Ign. Wait for coil lamp to go out

Turn OFF then straight back on

When coil light goes out Then Crank


It should start easier.. as it potentially has more heat
Worth trying with 3 x warming cycles.. if unsure

If it improves.. you have a cold plug... But you should really have a flashing light ( once started) to signify a fault


Next test : dip the clutch.. it reduces the load on the starter motor

Does the engine start better?

If so... you could have a cranking RPM issue

Low speed means low fuel supply..

Another thing you can do if you have a multimeter, check for power to each plug for volts on first turning on ignition from cold, (usually but not always 12 volts) then if that is OK set multimeter to Ohms and check for continuity between each heater plug and metal of engine. If heater plug is burnt out you will have open circuit. Often you can test and find you only have to change one or two.

 

[varesecrazy]

Thanks Mike


I was going for the 'no tools' tests 1st

The one thing I didnt say..

Zero mention of any poor running OR SMOKE..

IF youve got a 'cold' cylinder..it wont burn the Diesel for a little while..so exhaust will be smoky

Compression Ignition will get that cool cylinder running as the block warms..and the revs rise

@Tom1902

With No Smoke..and No flashing Glowplug light
I would leave the plugs alone

 

[WitleyPanda]

The non hard tools approach would be to connect up Multiscan and see if any error code come up for the glow plugs? I would check the harness/wiring before trying to ripe then out.

 

[Tom1902]

Thank you for all the help. I will get around to doing the tests before I bite the bullet to do it.

To start with, if I do let the coil lamp go out 2or 3 times it does start better.

Im not sure how I’d do the multimeter test as it seems as difficult to get the probes in as it does to get a socket in. But will give it a go.

Not tried the clutch test so will also try.

There’s no regular smoke, occasionally get some on start up but not often. And it runs fine no issues there.

Thanks.

 

[WitleyPanda]

Thank you for all the help. I will get around to doing the tests before I bite the bullet to do it.

To start with, if I do let the coil lamp go out 2or 3 times it does start better.

Im not sure how I’d do the multimeter test as it seems as difficult to get the probes in as it does to get a socket in. But will give it a go.

Not tried the clutch test so will also try.

There’s no regular smoke, occasionally get some on start up but not often. And it runs fine no issues there.

Thanks.

The clutch" test" is not a test, it is a method to start bigger and more stubborn engines, very cold, diesels in particular, as the power from the start then only needs to get the engine to speed rather than impart energy into the additional parts of the clutch and gearbox input shaft etc.

 

[varesecrazy]

Crucially .. the Diesel pump driven by the ENGINE needs Massive Pressure before the system allows fuel to be injected into the engine.. if wear through age makes this pressure 'marginal'

Any loss in cranking RPM can mean no fuel is injected.. therefore a NonStart

( this where 'Easystart' spray comes in..
The motor 'runs on the spray' for a few seconds.. enough to get the RPM into a better range)

 

[bugsymike]

The clutch" test" is not a test, it is a method to start bigger and more stubborn engines, very cold, diesels in particular, as the power from the start then only needs to get the engine to speed rather than impart energy into the additional parts of the clutch and gearbox input shaft etc.

As a test dipping the clutch is worth doing, though I admit I hate starting a car with the clutch down, my daughter has a VW Tiguan that you have to do it to activate the starter.
Many years ago I went out to breakdown where an old guys car wouldn't turn over, long story short the crank thrust bearings had worn through and seized the crank to the bloke and the engine was scrap.
Turned out, he being old school lorry driver always cranked engine with clutch down and eventually as no oil around cold bearings they wore out on his car resulting in a big bill.

 

[varesecrazy]

Jock says the same..

Ive done it through habit for @25 years..as often jumping into vehicles parked in gear

Thankfully (for so many reasons)
Ive never been near a Triumph Acclaim

 

[bugsymike]

Jock says the same..

Ive done it through habit for @25 years..as often jumping into vehicles parked in gear

Thankfully (for so many reasons)
Ive never been near a Triumph Acclaim

Datsun Cherry's I recall used to suffer from excessive crank movement .
Off subject a bit, some years ago I had a lady customer in her 80s with a Triumph Acclaim, she used to ferry her husband to Natural History Museums to lecture and he, I believe was at 106 at the time the oldest man in England and had invented Rayon the man made fibre for shirts, he told me they retired down our way as the climate was best, it certainly worked for him.