Technical Bought a mk2 x-reg - few issues

[h2ypr]

The fact that it nearly started on first attempt I think it's defo a battery issue that's a contribution. Lol.

 

[flisko]

cant see your pictures

 

[h2ypr]

What's wrong with them?

 

[h2ypr]

It's a video btw.

Starts at 12.4v with ignition off. Drops to 12.2 with ignition on and 8.5v when attempting to start the car.

 

[bluejohn125]

Well you've got a check list from your mechanic so why not use that.

If you're faffing about with your battery why not scrounge some jump leads and piggyback onto another car or battery to get some grunt?

Of course you should check that you have sparks outside the engine. If you have compression, fuel and sparks then it should run if everything is timed correctly and it spins fast enough.

A classic mistake people tend to make is to "time it 180 degrees out" so you may need to do a sanity check on your cambelt etc.

 

[h2ypr]

Well you've got a check list from your mechanic so why not use that.



If you're faffing about with your battery why not scrounge some jump leads and piggyback onto another car or battery to get some grunt?



Of course you should check that you have sparks outside the engine. If you have compression, fuel and sparks then it should run if everything is timed correctly and it spins fast enough.



A classic mistake people tend to make is to "time it 180 degrees out" so you may need to do a sanity check on your cambelt etc.

Hi John.

I used the checklist (as much as I can do). There is fuel, the spark can't be tested as the battery is already flat. The jump leads I have are in poor condition so when I attempted to provide extra 'Grunt' last week it didn't work. That's why I fully charged the battery.

As for timing it 180 degrees out - how would I check that? I used cam wheel and bell housing so what can I check to confirm?

I can't do a compression test as I can't get enough power to crank it properly.

I can't test spark for the same reason.

I had a bit of a manic day yesterday so only spent 30 mins on the car. I plan to get a battery and see if it will start and then test the spark and then the compression in that order.

I was trying to avoid spending any money on any other items until it was running again but it appears as if I definitely do need a battery.

 

[jazz452]

Don't you put a screw driver into plug no.1, piston should be at its highest point if correct. So just manually turn engine and see if the screwdriver is at its highest.

 

[h2ypr]

Got a battery after work and it's cranking much better.

Here's a clue to the issue (not any help to me but maybe someone else)

When I disconnect the battery the first attempt to crank it wants to start but then any time after that it just cranks with no attempt to start. Not spluttering no coughing nothing.

I think this means that the timing is out? Anyone else's opinion.

I need any ideas of what to try tomorrow. I want to get this running tomorrow.

What's the best way to check the timing? The battery tray out so is it bell housing and cam wheel check?

What else can I check? I'm gonna do a compression test and check the Spark.

I really appreciate everyone's help. I'm spending all day looking at this so need the info to get looking.

Thanks

 

[flisko]

you dont need to remove battery tray to check timing on gearbox, just remove rubber cap on it, and keep spinning either camshaft or crankshaft to the right till it aligns and then check on top camshaft pulley if it aligned with the notch

 

[h2ypr]

Thanks very much.

I'll take plugs out and check for spark.

Check compression.

Then check timing.

 

[h2ypr]

Think the timing is out ? Is it by enough to stop it starting though?

 

[h2ypr]

Compression was well down as well. Was like 60 on cylinder one so got to be the timing?

 

[h2ypr]

Forgot this pic

 

[flisko]

yea timing is out

 

[h2ypr]

I thought it was the arrow??

 

[h2ypr]

Well at least I know the issue.

 

[flisko]

its easy to time it again, remove belt and spin top part-camshaft till it aligns like on pic above, yellow line and on gearbox side, then put belt on and tighten tensioner and put engine mount back on and it should start

didnt you read any of the topics i gave?

 

[h2ypr]

I did but I've got confused somewhere along the lines. Lol. I've checked everything else and it's ok. If I'd realised I would have done it right first time. Lol. Easy fix as you say. It will be running today.

*how stupid a mistake was that to make. Lol. Thanks so much for taking the time to look and show me where I went wrong*

 

[h2ypr]

I thought I'd replied already.

It started. Engine management light stayed on when running - don't know if that's due to the oil pressure wiring being broken or not?

Had to turn it off after a few secs cause have no coolant in the system. Need to buy coolant but was holding off.

I bought a s4001 Bosch battery but it's obviously too long. Used snips and removed the back end of the casing and it fits now. Slight overhang at the back. Obvious concern is it moving backwards under the awesome pulling power of the 1.2 8v engine. So with the handle up i can feed the metal bracket through and it means it won't slide backwards or forwards. I'll take some pics to show what I mean.

So overall a good place to be in. I'll pop out Tuesday morning and buy coolant and get it filled up and take it from there.

Thanks again to everyone and esp flisko for taking the time to school me today.

 

[flisko]

you can fill it with tap water temporarily