That, absolutely the best way to do it.
On models with the expansion tank integral with the radiator, you won't get any more coolant out even if you disconnect the bottom hose. Messing with the bottom hose connection has a significant risk of breaking something and is best avoided.
Syphoning or sucking the coolant out, if your radiator is the type with the expansion tank integral with the side of the radiator, is a very good way to do it and avoids needing to dismantle anything of course. For as long as I can remember I've drained radiators by disconnecting the bottom hose from the radiator on any vehicle so, when I first did it on a Panda I did it this way. HOWEVER, I noticed the quick release fitting they use and had encountered something similar, on another make of vehicle, which had given me a fair bit of grief. Consequently I cut the hose clip off and wiggled the hose off the fitting, as you would on a vehicle without a quick connect fitting, and it worked well. I entirely agree with you jrk, others on here, that it's not a good idea to try to undo the quick connect fitting!
Thanks, is there any need to fiddle with the bleed screws after refilling the coolant? Or can it be left to bubble out the expansion tank.
Again, as jrk says, the system does need to be bled. I posted very recently in another thread, how I go about it by posting a link to a thread I had going when I did Becky's timing belt and water pump a few years ago, you might find it interesting:
https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/beckys-timing-belt-all-done.459967/ The little bleed screw on the hose is well known for being easy to break off if you get rough with it, so be careful.
Thanks, I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this.
I am doing the plugs (ordered
these, which will hopefully outlast the rest of the car) so that's well worth knowing.
good choice of plug, as you say they may well outlast the car!
And
this sump plug, so will take a look to check it's tapered. Haynes manual says 20nm for it.
As
@varesecrazy says above, I've also never had to buy a sump plug. I've also not seen one with a sealing compound on it? Personally I'd avoid any sort of sealant, especially a tape type, as it might find it's way into the sump and cause problems with the oil pickup strainer. I just fit them "dry" and haven't had one which leaks yet.
When you are screwing the plug back into it's hole, it should start to tighten while still protruding from the hole and be fully tight with several threads, at least two in my experience, proud of the hole. If it goes right into the hole then stop, because it shouldn't, and you don't want to screw it right through into the sump where you won't be able to get it out again!
Probably need assessing
It's not unusual for advisories to drop off a MOT without ever being addressed
It actually failed with:
- Offside Rear Suspension spring mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength (5.3.6 (a) (i))
Then passed 2 days later - so presumably the near side won’t be far behind :-(
I think this needs to be examined carefully. It's most likely to have been the spring pan that's been condemned - as this is a well known problem with our wee cars. However, from the way it's worded I'm wondering if it may perhaps just be something to do with the area around the bump stop? Less common, but people have posted regarding corrosion problems. Passed MOT two days later might indicate a welded repair was made and, especially if it was a spring pan, this needs to be carefully examined. On the other hand a new axle might have been fitted, quite possible to do in two days if all went well, in which case whoopee!
