General any ideas on what it'll cost to fix up

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General any ideas on what it'll cost to fix up

jetlag

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Hi all,
so I got a multi last Tuesday that's hasn't been looked after in life so far :(
it has some issues, looking for a guide on what it'll cost to put right if I buy all the parts and get a garage to fit them (I have no skills in this area)


big ones first:


Clutch
DMF - not confirmed but may as well do it at the same time as the clutch
Cambelt (no records of it ever having been done)
front brake pads
nsf A frame front bush separating (is this the wishbone bush)
rear coil springs corroded
play osf track rod end
play osf drop link
auxiliary belt perished badly


the parts alone come to £426.91!!!!!!!!!!!!


also it's very sluggish at low speeds and doesn't like hills at all, loses power on them and I have to keep changing down till I get back up to speed - cruises at 80 lovely, is this normal or - gulp - turbo???????


should I just drop a new engine in and be done with it?


the other stuff that needs doing and thankfully I can do it:
broken lens on main beam light
antifreeze
osf side lamp
nsf dipped beam
nsr tail light dimmer than os
split rear wiper
osf wiper
number plate light comes on with a tap




all help greatly appreciated
 
As you said...parts alone you are looking at £500!
Then I'd say another £600 at least depending on where you live for labour..could be more if you live around london ..
 
Clutch - Cost me £360.
DMF - not confirmed but may as well do it at the same time as the clutch
Cambelt - £200 or £1000 if it snaps
front brake pads - Do it yourself, £30.
nsf A frame front bush separating (is this the wishbone bush) - £200 a side if you include the drop link and track rod end

These are the things I've had done and what they cost me over the years.
I recently had my eGR valve cleaned and it's like driving a new car. An hours work for a garage, £60.
 
Cambelt kit including water pump is £100 parts alone plus extra pulley is another £30 then aux belt is £20 then looking at 4 to 5 hours labour so £200 is a good price fitted..
Don't skimp on not changing the aux belt as this can easily take out the cambelt if it snaps! Oh and I forgot the aux belt tensioner..that's £30 as well...all adds up unfortunately! Then you have the crank pulley that many people do! Another £70!! I had a new genuine one fail after 14 months...
Sorry to be bearer of bad news!
However if you was handy with a spanner there is lots to be saved too as its all very easy stuff
 
So what year / mileage / engine type ?

2003/110000/1.9jtd

Could just cut my losses but at least if I do it then it's done!!

There is currently an engine (all parts included) on the bay for 99 quid that's done 72000 miles bit it's out of a Lithuanian car so lhD (would this go in easily) and another for 300 at 71000 so that's why I was asking about the engine replacement
 
boilermansab;3419052 Sorry to be bearer of bad news! However if you was handy with a spanner there is lots to be saved too as its all very easy stuff[/QUOTE said:
I've never done a thing on cars but am keen to learn if anyone wants to take on a project with me :p sorry to be cheeky but I love this car and don't have loads of money, willing to pay for the help... Dover area
 
Get a compression test and emissions test (like the one for an MOT) done on the existing engine. That won't cost much and if it passes both of those (and it's not making any horrible noises) there's no point in spending money on a replacement engine when it would be used to better effect on other parts of the car. The JTD diesel can easily cope with 150,000+ miles if it's given it's basic maintenance. Get the garage to inspect the cambelt while it's there and let you know what condition it's in.

Clutch (and the labour to replace it) is the main expenditure. Hold fire on buying a new DMF until they take the gearbox off to do the clutch, have the existing one checked for play before committing to the purchase of a new one. New ones can be had off ebay and one or two motor factors for not much more than £150 these days; remind the garage of that if they say it needs replacing.
 
Get a compression test and emissions test (like the one for an MOT) done on the existing engine. That won't cost much and if it passes both of those (and it's not making any horrible noises) there's no point in spending money on a replacement engine when it would be used to better effect on other parts of the car. The JTD diesel can easily cope with 150,000+ miles if it's given it's basic maintenance. Get the garage to inspect the cambelt while it's there and let you know what condition it's in.

Clutch (and the labour to replace it) is the main expenditure. Hold fire on buying a new DMF until they take the gearbox off to do the clutch, have the existing one checked for play before committing to the purchase of a new one. New ones can be had off ebay and one or two motor factors for not much more than £150 these days; remind the garage of that if they say it needs replacing.

Ok I'll do that thanks, I was just thinking that if I got another engine I'd take 40k off the clock and as they come with all the auxiliary parts all I would need to do is get a new cam belt put on, the engine in this one seems ok but the car vibrates a lot, is loud (my Mrs says it out growls lorries lol) and has this sluggishness at low speeds and on hills.
I shouldn't have rushed into this car I know but I was in a bind as I can't work without one and my scenic had just died, not very lucky at the no :(
 
Also will a stilo dmf fit as I have seen a used one on eBay for 50 quid and was thinking of having it welded and put on at the same time as the clutch change just to put an end to that worry lol
 
For the sluggishness and lack of power up hills, try cleaning the MAF. If you're happy to go with a solid flywheel (have you driven a car with one, though?), why not just get the one that's already on the car welded up when the clutch is done and save yourself the £50?
 
Just an update, cleaned the Maf sensor and most of the sluggishness is gone, and had clutch, cambelt, waterpump, aux belt and tensioner changed this week £370 parts and Labour :) kept the dmf as it was fine according to mechanic, the belts are squeaking a bit tho when I fire up, switch off or put the gas on/off at low speeds is this normal or should I take it back to him?
 
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