Technical Alternator crisis help

Currently reading:
Technical Alternator crisis help

panda54

Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2010
Messages
37
Points
64
Hi,
My problem is that I am trying to remove the top bolt that holds the alternator on.
It has sheared off below the sufrace so nothing is sticking out.
The lower bolts were also sheared off but I have managed to drill them out using left handed drill bits to extract then.
I am struggling to drill into the top bolt - limited space/angle for my right angle drill.
Has anyone removed the plate/bracket the alternator/compressor bolts onto?
It is SGR.50104 listed on ePER Here
Any suggestions on drilling or removal of mounting?
Thanks
 
You can support the AC and remove the bracket/mount. Bracket only. Without the alternator (picture below is an assembly stage - new alternator).
Alternator_and_AC_base_plate(mount)_assembly.jpg

Take it out, you're punishing yourself (easy, straightforward job, additional one or two bolts and nut to undo), then repair the threads (remove broken bolts) on the workbench (way more convenient than right angle drill attachments etc., or welding on the car - forget about it, you'll set it on fire).
Alternator-AC_mount_(remove_to_repair_threads).jpg

Without the brakcet, alternator install is easier. You put the alternator in place (from the top of the engine, timing belt side), then slide in the bracket.
Clean the bracket (important electrical part - provides earth/ground to the alternator)...
 
Last edited:
So 3 bolts hold the compressor and then one bolt below it then one from the side?
Do I need to remove the belt tensioner?
If so how many bolts?
Thanks for the info
 
So you are drilling out the bolts on the car (drill 90 deg. attachment), but you need help to undo few more bolts?
Is this a joke? :rolleyes: Just do it. Come on...
 
Last edited:
Update,
After undoing the compressor and the 5 bolts on the bracket and the tensioner it still would not move.
I could feel two studs with nuts on them towards the front past the tensioner area.
One came out easily but when I undid the second one it was siezed on the thread and unscrewed the stud ........
Then coolant started coming out so I replaced the stud as quick as I could.
Removed as much coolant as possable then with a bucket under the car I took the stud out and some more coolant came out.
The bracket was now loose and has been removed.
My bracket does not lie flat like the one in the picture as it has and extra mounting by the tensionr mount area (see the ePER link in first post)
Hopefully will be removing sheared bolts tomorrow.
Thanks for the info:cool:
 
Small update have been able to clean up several threads and reattach the stud that came out.
Need to get some longer M8 bolts.
Image to show the extra bracket and stud holes.
20250513_141252.jpg
 
All back together now just have to get a drive belt fron halfords @ £13.50.
The left bolt(looking up from under the car)on the compressor has a bracket and a metal pipe so no room for a socket jut a spanner and this bolt was the tightest and most corroded so I had to wind it in and out slowly to ease it out.
The top alternator thread was not damaged all the way down so I was able to use a thread cleaner tap and a longer 65mm bolt to get a solid fixing.
Thanks for the info and encouragment :cool:
 
As I was trying to hold the tensioner in the correct position the bolt turned a little bit so I took the tensioner off and removed the bolt and wheel.
The threaded part hes got a crack all round it so when the bolt moved it was pulling the threaded part out :eek:.
Are these considered a service item ?
New one ordered hopefully delivery tomorrow.
 
Final update.....
New tensioner fitted with new belt.
All working properly.
Thanks all.
 
Hi
I have similare issue and taken the bracket off (or rather my local garage has)
But wasnt any collant leakage that I know of.
UPDATE - its a stud not a bolt? Maybe the stud didnt come out in my case.

Did you loose any signifcant collant? You do actually mention that
ie need to refill it
or was it just unlucky for you ?
Hopefully was able to quickly put a new bare stud back in (after taking any stuck Nut off of it)
 
Last edited:
Hi
I have similare issue and taken the bracket off (or rather my local garage has)
But wasnt any collant leakage that I know of.
UPDATE - its a stud not a bolt? Maybe the stud didnt come out in my case.

Did you loose any signifcant collant
ie need to refill it
or was it just unlucky for you ?
Hopefully was able to quickly put a new bare stud back in (after taking any stuck Nut off of it)
It was a stud with a siezed nut on.
Not too much coolant came but it felt like a lot as it rained down on me as I put the stud back in.
There was still coolant in the tank so I removed it and when I removed the stud again only a small amount more came out.
Lost less than a litre of coolant.
Looks like siezed/sheared bolts are a feature of this repair.
 
Back
Top