Technical Air filter change...

[KungFooPanda]

Hi guys?

Is there a guide on here on how to change the air filter? Or could someone give me a walk through. I can see that there’s 3 bolts on the front of the housing! Just wondering in there are anymore to remove that you can’t see.

?

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Presume this is a Panda? if so what year and engine please.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Ours is a 2010 1.2 Dynamic Eco petrol. I like to take the whole filter housing off the engine so I can inspect, and clean if necessary, the throttle butterfly and intake. But you could leave it in place if all you want to do is change the filter. The front of the filter housing has a spring which fixes to the front of the engine. After you remove the spring there are two "over centre" type latches on either side of the filter which, once released, will allow the front of the filter housing to be removed - in fact it will virtually fall off! - thus exposing the filter element. Fiat have had this system on the Panda for ages - it was like that on our '92 Panda Parade! When they changed to the euro 5 engine - 2011 or thereabouts - they threw away the clips and replaced them with 6 securing screws. the top three are easily seen on the top front of the casing but there are three more, in exactly the same position underneath the filter. My son's 1.4 petrol Punto has one like this and I do find it much easier to just take the filter off the car, access to the bottom 3 bolts then becomes simple.

Diesels I don't know about, never having owned/worked on one. But someone on here will know. For jobs like this it's hard to beat the Haynes manual. Well worth buying one if you intend to do any more to it.

Good luck with it
regards Jock

 

[KungFooPanda]

Mine is a 2007 Panda 100hp version with the 3 screws at the top. I also have a 2007 1’1 active that’s an easy air filter change.

 

[jrkitching]

Ours is a 2010 1.2 Dynamic Eco petrol. I like to take the whole filter housing off the engine so I can inspect, and clean if necessary, the throttle butterfly and intake. But you could leave it in place if all you want to do is change the filter. The front of the filter housing has a spring which fixes to the front of the engine. After you remove the spring there are two "over centre" type latches on either side of the filter which, once released, will allow the front of the filter housing to be removed - in fact it will virtually fall off! - thus exposing the filter element. Fiat have had this system on the Panda for ages - it was like that on our '92 Panda Parade! When they changed to the euro 5 engine - 2011 or thereabouts - they threw away the clips and replaced them with 6 securing screws. the top three are easily seen on the top front of the casing but there are three more, in exactly the same position underneath the filter. My son's 1.4 petrol Punto has one like this and I do find it much easier to just take the filter off the car, access to the bottom 3 bolts then becomes simple.

The 60HP engines have air filters that can be changed in about a minute, without tools. Later 69HP engines are not only secured by fiddly screws which are stupidly easy to cross thread, they also have a fragile breather attachment on the back of the airbox which will break in an instant if you are not careful.

IMO all vehicles should have easily accessible filters which can be changed by the end user without requiring tools. If it can be done for a vacuum clearner, why not for a car?

 

[dac69er]

Take off the 3 bolts that bolt the filter housing to the engine. Remove the intake pipe from the side of the housing and the duct that connects the housing to the front of the car.
Remove the housing and undo the 6 screws on the front. Remove the cover, replace the filter.

Put everything back in the reverse order. Just be careful not to do up the front housing screws too tight.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

Mine is a 2007 Panda 100hp version with the 3 screws at the top. I also have a 2007 1’1 active that’s an easy air filter change.

Lucky you! - I've had a "hankering" for a 100HP for years but never came across one that was in good enough condition, affordable or at a time I had the money available!

 

[KungFooPanda]

Lucky you! - I've had a "hankering" for a 100HP for years but never came across one that was in good enough condition, affordable or at a time I had the money available!

This one came up at a good price. It’s been garaged for around 3 years, it’s only covered less 200 throughout the last 3 MOT. For me I had to have a red one and with the Pandamonium pack. ?

 

[DaveMcT]

Lucky you! - I've had a "hankering" for a 100HP for years but never came across one that was in good enough condition, affordable or at a time I had the money available!

They are good, but a diesel with remap would be just as quick and maybe even quicker in the real world. A remapped diesel 4x4 would smoke it every time.

 

[KungFooPanda]

They are good, but a diesel with remap would be just as quick and maybe even quicker in the real world. A remapped diesel 4x4 would smoke it every time.

It’s not about the speed for me. The ?hp is a future classic and will only go up in value. ????????

 

[A3jeroen]

Really?

 

[jrkitching]

The ��hp is a future classic and will only go up in value.

IMO it deserves to be. It was probably the most fun car you could have bought brand new in 2010 for under £8000.

Many 100HP's will by now have had various modifications; some well considered and thought out, others less so. To be of any interest to a true collector, the car will need to be kept original, so you can forget about upgrading the suspension, fitting different wheels, or remapping the engine if you want yours to become a proper classic.

I think prices have probably bottomed out now for well kept cars in original condition and if kept that way, you'll likely see a modest increase in its long term value, but don't expect it to be worth a fortune anytime soon.

Have a look here at what the pundits think about the original Panda 4x4 as a potential classic. There are some similarities here; when new, the 4x4 Panda was far and away the cheapest 4x4 you could buy, in the same way that the 100HP was easily the cheapest non-pedestrian hatch in any car dealer's showroom.

In the final analysis, the 100HP is basically a van version of the 1.4 500 with rear windows and back seats. If you want the drive of a 100HP, you can get essentially the same experience by buying a 1.4 500, and I don't see 1.4 500 prices rising anytime soon, as that car will always sit in the shadow of the A500.

I think anyone buying a 100HP now and looking after it will always get at least their original investment back, but I wouldn't want to rely on it being part of my future pension plan. I'd say these cars are best enjoyed in the present for what they are.

Owning a classic with any real value is actually quite limiting; unless money really is no object, you can't enjoy it to the full without thinking about how much you'll lose if you actually use it.

A Capri 280 with under 1000 miles on the clock sold for a record £54000 in 2016, but what are you going to do with it that isn't going to destroy what makes it valuable? You can polish the fenders & maybe take it on a trailer to classic car shows, but that's about it. It's going to spend the rest of its life sitting on blocks in a dehumidified garage.

 

[KungFooPanda]

Absolutely agree with you. I wished I’d purchased one back in 2010. £8000 is a bargain. Does anyone know how much extra the Pandamonium version was over the standard. Does anyone have the upgraded sound systems with the sub under the seat.

 

[DaveMcT]

The older classic cars and bikes are becoming theft targets. They have next to no security and many are valuable over the world. Anything really nice will need to be stored in a bomb proof garage.

As JR says, the 100HP will lose money if it's been overly modified, but things like suspension struts wheels and exhausts are easy to swap back. Butchered door cards (boy racer speakers) wrong or badly worn seats and bodged bodywork are much bigger issues.

I'm on the look-out for a dark grey metallic front bumper.

 

[jrkitching]

They have next to no security

When the Routemaster bus first hit the streets of London in 1956 it had neither a lock on the driver's door, nor an ignition key. As a child, I don't recall any reports of folks stealing them.

The Capri was probably the last of the truly easily stealable cars; you could open the door with a coathanger and hotwire the ignition in seconds. By the time the last models left the showroom, it wasn't even worth contemplating buying one unless you has a very secure place to keep it.

Times have changed.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

They are good, but a diesel with remap would be just as quick and maybe even quicker in the real world. A remapped diesel 4x4 would smoke it every time.

I was really into my VAG diesels some years ago. The older VE 1.9 tdi's with a "proper" distributor type pump and injectors you could actually remove (if needs be). Then came the PD's, quite a bit different, but once you got used to their foibles they were really quite a good engine. especially the 1.9 - well OK, perhaps the early 2.0 litres with their oil pump drive and piezo injector problems were best avoided.

Common rail though? not at all so sure. They are much more highly stressed than the older diesels and don't seem to offer the reliability bonus which the older units did. Then there are the likes of Dual Mass flywheels and "impossible to remove" injectors - have you seen the length of some of them? steel into ally heads - guaranteed to suffer electrolytic corrosion! (mind you there's some pretty long spark plugs on the go too -see Kia/Hyundai in particular - a case for antiseize as soon as you buy if ever I saw one). So I think the potential for expensive repairs on the diesels (even though the latest generation of direct injection petrol units are not going to be cheap to repair) frightens me too much. If Twink (my 2016 direct injection petrol Ibiza) starts having serious problems I'll be looking for a late model port injected petrol. Maybe I'll have another look at the 1.8 i-vtec Civic.

 

[DaveMcT]

Diesels have become highly strung to say the least. Most can make around 100hhp per litre a figure previously only reserved for high revving bike engines. The issue is that diesels do that at low revs so the torque loads per crank turn are much higher.

I mean 100bhp at 9000 rpm needs 50% of the torque made by an engine doing 4,500. Most diesels peak between 1800 and 3000 rpm with a rev limit at 4,500.

Some Renaults were know for throwing con-rods. That wont happen unless its really pushing the boundaries.